Efficient, quiet current limiting noob help please!

I'm looking for an affordable, efficient, low-RFI way to limit ~14.5VDC current between my car's power port and a secondary system. I've considered a constant current buck-boost converter, but I'm afraid that will cause too much RFI. A dim bulb limiter seems like it would be quiet, but I'm worried about the heat and efficiency. What other options are there?

I've had problems in the past with buck converters wrecking VHF radio performance. Now that I'm getting into HF, it's even worse, so I'm loathe to put any investment into a buck/boost converter. If I understand it correctly, current limiting resistors will be extremely clean, but will cause significant voltage drop and heat. A dim bulb tester would be more efficient at low draws, but I'm concerned that if it were to go full-power, the heat (at something in the neighborhood of 100W) could be bad for automotive carpeting and/or my safety and my insurance premiums. I have very poor understanding of linear current limiting circuits, current limiting diodes, etc. Is that were I need to go, or is there another, simpler solution?

12 comments · 33% upvoted · other discussions

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fatangaboo

Is it okay if the current limiter completely disconnects the load from the 14.5VDC supply when overcurrent is detected? And then it stays disconnected forever, until the human operator presses the RESET button. How would that be?

Justinicus [OP]

No, I would like the secondary system to be able to pull as hard as it likes and be limited to a safe current level without breaking the circuit, as it were.

Justinicus [OP]

Something like the constant current function of a lab power supply would be ideal. My first thought was a CC buck/boost -- cheap, efficient, easily obtainable on eBay. But the RFI is very problematic. I couldn't find a linear equivalent, at least not with my electronics vocabulary!

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triffid_hunter

If you want efficient, get the buck-boost.

If you want quiet, you don't get efficient.

If you don't mind losing a volt or two, a simple current source might be the ticket, leaving you to simply work out how to heatsink the two pass transistors enough that they don't burn ;)

Justinicus [OP]

Like "fast, cheap, good, pick two"? That definitely might be the solution for me, thanks!

[deleted]

12v incandescent or halogen lamp in series? It'll limit current to whatever its designed to, and it'll turn on to indicate high-current draw.

Justinicus [OP]

When it's at its design current, what would happen to the current downstream? Current is the same for everything in a series circuit? But it's cooking off power, so it must drop the voltage, right?

[deleted]

It would, yes. The bulb's resistance will climb very rapidly when it illuminates. It's useful for test applications, but also in addition to other current-limiting components to serve as an indicator and protection when they fail.

PDF

[deleted]
fatangaboo

Output voltage of that circuit is pretty low.

  • Vout = Vin - (Vbe_Q1 + Vdropout_U1)

Since Vbe_Q1 is about 0.7V and Vdropout_U1 is about 2.0V,

  • Vout = Vin - 2.7V
[deleted]

Yes you're right - it's designed around a 24VAC transformer which would give a peak voltage of 34V, which then passes through a bridge rectifier and the other components you mentioned, so you get about 30VDC at the output.

I'm not sure what voltage OP actually needs - they mentioned a buck converter - it will have a voltage drop too, just not as significant.