u/Fish1587
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42points
Fish1587
Fish1587
It says that person worries about their 1s, 2s, and 7s getting mixed up. Aka me.
Fish1587
What is your question? The explanations given all seem very clear. The only thing I'd say is maybe the first question has a typo and it meant to be talking about CO2 instead of I2 because the triple point of I2 is actually below 1atm, but the temperature is pretty high so it still sublimates at room temperature
Fish1587
bot
Fish1587
I always name it Safula, after the Safula Hill where you find it
Fish1587
What do you mean salvage? Black is winning, black will be up at least one piece at the end of this.
Personally, I'd go c6. Give the queen some mobility at the cost of the bishop. You can continue Rxg5 Qd8 d4 Be6, and the position is about -4. Computer wants to save the bishop with Bf6, which looks okay too, I just didn't like that they can play Rxd5 with tempo on the queen.
Fish1587
I think there's a few ways to think about it:
For starters, from a strict RPG perspective, I think you're kind of right. If you think about other RPGs, they all have an ending, OR they have some "post-game" content. (Simple example: in Pokemon games, you become the Champion, but then there's further plot elements that unfold or battle tournaments to enter.) I remember being a little let down after beating Minish Cap, my first Zelda game, when I was put back at the start of the last dungeon. So I think if you are coming at it from that perspective, then once you beat Ganon, you're done with the game.
However, I think there's a lot more to the games than just the main quest storyline side of it. For example:
- I am also a "completionist" kind of gamer, and finishing all the shrines, side-quests, and compendium entries (even after beating Ganon) was quite enjoyable for me, and made the world feel more full and lived in.
- It is a "role-playing game," so you can do many things like practice cooking different dishes, getting your favorite weapons to hang in your house, hunt for rare weapons with specific upgrades, collect different horses, get the high scores in different mini-games... you know. Like a game.
- If Ganon is forever defeated, then you can't fight him again. Which for me, is a fun part of the game too. First fight is a tense close battle where you use all the resources you gathered to try to defeat him. After that, it's fun to see how much easier it is once you improve or get better gear. Or do a challenge fight where you change your weapons / battle style and see if you can beat him then.
Those are just my thoughts. If you play it only for the story, then yeah, the game is done for you. But there's Tears of the Kingdom to play next!
Fish1587
I'd say you're 100 rated, but black played too well in the opening for that. So I have to say 500. High enough for (at least one side to) know opening principles, but low enough to get away with whatever that bs was and to not be able to mate from the position black had.
Fish1587
This is a bad take
Fish1587
There's a case to be made for either Medoh or Ruta first, both because the abilities are so useful - Revali's gale makes terrain traversal much easier for the rest of the game so it's very useful early on, and Mipha's grace buffer on hearts is great for early game especially if you max stamina before hearts. I usually do Medoh first for that reason, but not before taking a quick detour to Faron to stock up on hearty durians for the +heart food! (Oh also, Revali is a little shit so I just want to get his stuff out of the way. But that's just my personal opinion/ preference.)
I think it's crazy to do Rudania last because the it's just so underwhelmingly easy. Both the quest beforehand and the divine beast / blight itself are quite easy even at the higher HP if you do it last. So for narrative reasons, I try not to leave it to last. At least 3rd, but I'll sneak it in second if I feel I can delay getting Mipha's grace. Not to mention delaying Ruta makes the Lynel less deadly if you don't feel like sneaking.
Then I always do Naboris last. It's my favorite quest line, favorite region, favorite "divine beast fight", second favorite dungeon (I like tilting Medoh), and definitely the hardest blight, made harder by the increased HP. I think the challenge is narratively satisfying, plus by that time in the game you have the tools you need to handle it without it feeling impossible. Doing Naboris first is conceivable to make the blight easier, but I think it's overall more challenging to handle the resources you need for the hot/cold mechanic of gerudo desert, and then of course you have Yiga accosting you every second for the rest of the game. Obviously Urbosa's fury is very strong too, but I tend not to use it just because it feels too OP. It's nice in a pinch though.
So ideally my order is: 1. Medoh (for Revali's gale) 2. Rudania (to get the easy one done) 3. Ruta (for Mipha's Grace) 4. Naboris (for the epic conclusion)
Fish1587
I promise, this will work, but you need to have a little patience:
First and foremost, make sure you know how to checkmate. Practice the ladder checkmate with two queens or two rooks against a computer. Doesn't matter how good you are, if you can't end the game with checkmate, you cant win*.
Then start playing long time controls. 10 minutes or 15+10. After every move your opponent makes, literally draw arrows with the mouse from every piece (pawns don't count) your opponent has to as far as they can move, and see if any of those arrows touch your pieces. If so, make sure that piece is defended, or move that piece out of the sight of their piece, or trade the piece if possible.
Then do the same arrows for your pieces. See which of your opponents pieces you can take for free. Make sure it's really free, and not protected by one of their pieces (see previous step).
After doing those two things, you should be confident that there are no hanging pieces for either you or your opponent. Then, just make a developing move. Knights to the center, bishop to the center, rooks to the middle of the board, castle if you haven't already. Just something safe and not too much thought into it. Again. Making sure you're not moving a piece somewhere where one of those arrows you drew for your opponents pieces are.
After doing those three steps, you may have spent a whole minute (or two!) on one move. So you will likely lose on time. That's okay. (Your ELO can't go much lower anyway.) Just keep practicing this until you don't need to physically draw the arrows anymore. You'll get faster and faster at seeing where all the pieces look.
Developing this board vision is the most important thing to get you out of three digit ELO. If you're rated 999 or below, this is still something you can work on. (And probably higher.) Eventually, it will just a be a quick check to make sure nothing is hanging, and that your move doesn't hang anything.
Fish1587
What about after the continuation:
- Bxb7 Rxd3 2. Rxd3 Qb5 3. Rd8+ Kh7 4. Be4+ f5 5. Bxf5+ Kg7 6. Rg1+ Kf6 7. Rd5 Qe2
There's only one move for white that keeps the advantage, everything else is 0.00 or worse, and honestly I'm not so sure it's completely obvious. But that's why I'm not 2100 I guess
Fish1587
You are missing that after he takes the knight, your queen is now under attack from the pawn on h5. So if you give a discovered check with your queen. He takes the queen with the pawn. You capture his queen, he recaptures with his bishop, and at the end, you've lost a queen and two pieces for a queen and one piece. You're down a piece.
Fish1587
1400-1500, I like Cambridge Springs. It has a few traps, results in a relatively active position for black, and is offbeat enough to catch some QG players offguard while still being sound. Though I've been considering just buckling down and learning the theory for QGA.
Fish1587
Well in this case, it's a draw by repetition
Fish1587
Ragebait bot
Fish1587
It doesn't. Queen is on h6 in both variations.
Fish1587
It evaluates the resulting position as having the same advantage for white. Which, since they end up being exactly the same, of course they do. So since the evaluation of both line are identical, it suggests both lines as the top two lines. Then, since it is easier to calculate a little deeper by including the forcing checks at the start, it is just slightly more confident in the check line, so it appears at the top of the evaluation.
Fish1587
I agree with most of the other recommendations here, but one general one is to just watch anyone talk about any Chess at all. If you're not sure what to look out for or your opponents plans keep catching you by surprise, more exposure to chess in general should help. I also think that Gotham Chess is a great way to start, very accessible to beginners. Also review your games afterwards so you can see where you went wrong and start committing those unexpected plans to memory so they become more expected. Simply turn on the engine and look for when the evaluation changes a lot, and see what the computer recommends you do instead. At first some or a lot of it might not make much sense, but hopefully you start to recognize critical moments where mistakes often happen
Fish1587
Of course, be careful and make sure, but to me I thought it was for workout immediately. I do bodyweight workouts in my apartment and I use a sheet very similar to this. Mine is a little longer though, so I can do rows with it. See attached image. Notice the knot, which is very similar to the one here.
Hopefully it's truly for workout and nothing else, but it could also be damaging to freak out about something that's not what you think it is. But again, please be sure.
Fish1587
My GC to GBA cable came in the mail this week. I'm right behind you!
Fish1587
The reason you are getting downvoted is the image attached. On the very top of the subreddit page, there is a link to the wiki. And the very first FAQ is about en passant.
If you're trying to do it by "inspection" - aka, just going back and forth adding coefficients and hoping it balances eventually - unfortunately this will not work for this problem. The coefficients end up being too complicated. You have to use algebra to solve it.
Start by writing an algebraic expression for each element. Each term will be a coefficient from a species containing that element, and the left and right sides will be equal.
So "a" is C2H4, "b" is NH4ClO4, "c" is HCl, etc...
The expressions are as follows:
C: 2a = d (because C2H4 - the "a" compound - has 2 carbons in it, and CO2 - the "d" compound - has 1 C)
H: 4a + 4b = c + 2e
N: b = 2f
Cl: b = c
O: 4b = 2d + e
Now you have 5 equations and 6 unknowns. You should be able to get it down to just one equation by plugging things in. Here's how I did it.
Plug C into O: 4b = 2(2a) + e
4b = 4a + e
Plug Cl into H: 4a + 4b = b + 2e
4a + 3b = 2e
I notice both of the above equations have "4a" in them, so I set them equal to each other:
O: 4a = 4b - e
H: 4a = 2e - 3b
4b - e = 2e - 3b
7b = 3e
This is far enough. We now have all equations in terms of just b and e, so we can arbitrarily pick two numbers to satisfy the above equation:
b = 3
e = 7
Now just plug in:
Cl: b = c --> c = 3
N: b = 2f --> f = 3/2
O: 4b = 2d + e --> d = [ 4(3) - 7 ] / 2 = 5/2 (we'll come back to the fraction at the end)
C: 2a = d --> a = (5/2)/2 = 5/4
So we have all our coefficients, we just need to make them all whole numbers. We found that a = 5/4, so our lowest common denominator is 4, so we should multiply everything by 4:
a: (5/4) x 4 = 5
b: 3 x 4 = 12
c: 3 x 4 = 12
d: (5/2) x 4 = 10
e: 7 x 4 = 28
f: (3/2) x 4 = 6
And there it is:
5 C2H4 + 12 NH4ClO4 --> 12 HCl + 10 CO2 + 28 H2O + 6 N2
Each side has 10 C, 12 N, 12 Cl, 48 O, and 68 H. Yeah, it's a doozy. So you need the algebraic method to solve this one. Maybe you can do it by inspection somehow, but if you try going back and forth 4 or 5 times with no success, it'll probably be quicker and easier to just use this method. It's hard at first but it gets easier the more you practice.