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I tried to clear the purge line during print🤦...please help...

6 points · submitted Oct 2023 by u/BenevolentX · Troubleshooting

So first off, I'm an idiot and thought I could quickly clear the purgline of my build plate for a full bed-size print while running. The answer to the question is no...I'm not faster than my x1c and it caught hold of my scraper instantly, wrecking my build plate as I should have expected it to. Rookie move.🤦

Oh well, new $25 plate ruined I'll survive. Thank gosh my hand wasn't in the way of the scraper. (pics of scraper are a recreation with printer off to the best of my memory, as it did not auto-stop printing) My much larger concern is the awful belt/motor skipping sounds it made during the collision. I've been told that's a safety feature and not always damaging but can see by the last pics I now have terrible first-layer issues on that exact ride side of a different brand-new build plate.

So my question for all of you is, it seems I definitely bent or broke something with this stroke of genius but to a visual inspection everything looks fine. I ran the built-in printer self-test, and full calibration with no errors. Then left all calibrations enabled before the bed uniformity print pictured and still have those issues now, but the printer thinks everything is fine.

What did I break? 😬 (FYI nozzle is a braced aftermarket CHT clone that shouldn't bend, and didn't have any print issues before the collision, nor does it have any issues across the rest of the bed and I don't think the nozzle was involved with the collision anyway)

31 comments · 67% upvoted · source · other discussions

comments

nitwitsavant 7 points · Oct 2023 · X1C

If you set a layer 1 pause in the slicer it should give you time to get those then just hit resume.

BenevolentX [OP] 2 points · Oct 2023

Good point. Ever since maker world launch I have been exclusively printing directly from my phone. Coolest thing ever. Great example of why certain prints still need a full slicer.

Any ideas on why my prints on the right side of the bed suck now even with a new plate?

Traxendre 4 points · Oct 2023

RIP

BenevolentX [OP] 3 points · Oct 2023

Finally got the image to load with the post. Sorry for having to post so many times, I deleted the rest. Turns out Reddit doesn't support HEIC photos so had to convert them to JPG. Here is one more image of just how bad prints are on that side of the bed now.

https://preview.redd.it/i4x96sw09ntb1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=43a3e7535affd6d49750c66ad1e765b64cb9a39a

Historical-Fee-9010 3 points · Oct 2023 · H2D AMS2 AMS-HT

Try a Non-Destructive Bed Tramming™: Use the gcode supplied at https://wiki.bambulab.com/en/x1/manual/manual-bed-leveling but do NOT follow the instructions on the wiki (although it's not a bad idea to just read them). Specifically, do NOT touch the thumb screws beforehand. And instead of adjusting "until the printing surface barely touches the nozzle", use a 0.4 mm feeler gauge between nozzle and plate, adjusting thumb screws until the gauge drags a little at all three points. You can re-run the tramming gcode as many times you wish (for that to work you have to use a 0.4 mm gauge and not just any thin gauge or piece of paper).

After you're happy with the tramming, run the full auto bed levelling and with some luck you'll be fine.

BenevolentX [OP] 1 points · Oct 2023

Ah great point it would make a lot of sense if that side of the bed is now just lower from the impact. I'll give this a try as you recommend rather than starting from zero skip straight to checking that side with a feeler gauge. I'll have to see if I can find some gauges local, otherwise Amazon next day it is.

BenevolentX [OP] 1 points · Oct 2023

After reading the article, it definitely wants the nozzle to be touching the bed. Out of curiosity, what's significance of the 0.4mm feeler gauge if the idea is to get it to 0.0mm?

Just trying to understand.

Historical-Fee-9010 1 points · Oct 2023 · H2D AMS2 AMS-HT

Bambu's instructions of course "works", but has major flaws: The first and worst being that it starts with you messing with the thumb screws, so you'll never get to know how bad/good it was prior to tramming!

Here is what the tramming gcode does (you can open it in a text editor and verify).

  1. Turn off ABL correction (you obviously want to level it uncorrected)
  2. Move to first corner and set Z to 0.4 mm
  3. pause (while you may trim the thumb screw or just look at it)
  4. Move to next corner and set Z to 0.4 mm
  5. pause (and so on)

After it is complete, you have actually set it 0.4 mm off (because it positioned Z at 0.4 mm but you set it to touch) but the next homing will correct that.

The second big flaw is it's harder than you think to set it to "barely touch the nozzle". Especially for the innermost point. It doesn't end up very accurate so the ABL will have to correct it. But with a feeler gauge, it's easy to get a feel for equal drag between nozzle and bed. The ABL should end up with less correction, which is a good thing.

The third big flaw in the OEM instruction is that if you want to re-run the tramming, you need to start by messing with the thumb screws again (because auto homing has fixed your "touching bed" to an actual 0.4 mm distance). If not, you will soon run out of threads on the thumb screws.

Using the 0.4 mm gauge, you actually set it like the gcode wants it. So if you re-run it after Z auto-home, it should still be 0.4 mm. You can re-run it as many times you want just to verify. That's why I call it non-destructive.

BenevolentX [OP] 1 points · Oct 2023

Ahhhhh thank you that makes a ton of sense that the 0.4mm feeler gauge is actually significant because it matches the z offset of the particular G code. Thank you! I'll see if I can get one from harbor freight today.

BenevolentX [OP] 1 points · Oct 2023

So I did the bed leveling a couple of times to get it really dialed with the 0.4mm feeler and unfortunately, it's somehow worse now than it was before. Previous it was the the very right edge which had problems, now almost the entire first layer has problems around every edge. So confused. Tried both different fillment and different build plate also, no luck...

https://preview.redd.it/ytdchag8oztb1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=257a900065cbb019d5997ef124e6a4f0261cb806

Historical-Fee-9010 1 points · Oct 2023 · H2D AMS2 AMS-HT

I can’t believe you bent the hotbed, but to be sure, did you check it for flatness? Put a straight edge on it and light from behind

BenevolentX [OP] 1 points · Oct 2023

I checked it with a level for light bleed and nothing. Bit awkward so I'll need to get a better straight edge but regardless on theory the bed leveling should correct for that and just give me a warped, curved part matching the bent/warped bed.

I tensioned the x-y belts and cleaned the rods. Seems like perhaps it's slightly better but still bad. I wonder if my Z belt carriages are out of sync from the belt slipping during the collision. Found a wiki on how to resync them but doesn't look fun. Not sure what else to try though.

https://preview.redd.it/avr8knduk0ub1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a5f9a3588646fbb25421c4e055b57dbd0c2f74c2

Historical-Fee-9010 1 points · Oct 2023 · H2D AMS2 AMS-HT

How much off was it before you leveled it? Did you get the impression some point was more off than others?

I shouldn’t say this (lol) but I was playing with the idea that the belt skipped a tooth on just one of your Z rods. Not sure it could even happen in theory and I guess if it would it should be very obvious. Probably can’t even happen. Edit: is that what you meant with sync?

Last idea, perhaps you should concentrate your investigations on the X/Y stuff. I imagine they would be more fragile than Z.

BenevolentX [OP] 1 points · Oct 2023

The front two tramm points where way to high and the nozzle actually hole punched a little crater into the build plate on the front left and front right. Luckily I was smart enough to put the already scratched plate in for leveling for that reason so not worried about it. The back point however was low! Probably a solid 1mm above the bed so I initially tried leveling it by only adjusting that rear one until it touched for the heck of it. After that made no difference, I went around and gapped all 3 points with a 0.4mm gauge I picked up.

https://preview.redd.it/iz91ikjgq0ub1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bc1753afddcb9b56e5df931e93eb4f75ba88315e

But yeah that's why I mean by out of sync, maybe the belt skipped on only one. It definitely made some terrible noises durring the impact and seemed to have no intention of stopping itself. Really wish some sort of protection had kicked in.

Historical-Fee-9010 2 points · Oct 2023 · H2D AMS2 AMS-HT

Makes you wonder if 1.5 mm would correspond to one tooth? Anyway now I‘m really curious so be sure to post when you find out what’s the problem. And best of luck!

BenevolentX [OP] 1 points · Oct 2023

Well I'm bummed out with my lack of findings. The front two pulleys had jumped like 4 teeth each and the rear had jumped like 2. So they are all back in sync but surprisingly the print issue is the same.

Got a straight edge and it's easily the levelest bed I have ever seen. Barley a sliver of light under the whole bed and I can't even fit my smallest 0.04mm feeler gauge under any of it which is a crazy paper thin gauge.

https://preview.redd.it/y0l294cfn9ub1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d177ce13fad910cd582ef2506ea612f445a326c0

No clue what could possibly be the issue now...

Historical-Fee-9010 1 points · Oct 2023 · H2D AMS2 AMS-HT

Ouch, good thing you got that sorted. So are you still testing with the one layer print? Perhaps just do a 17 min benchy and see if that gives any clues. Also maybe you should try an other hotend assy just because it’s easy and to rule out things

BenevolentX [OP] 1 points · Oct 2023

Yeah I tried another full hotend assembly yesterday to rule out a bend or even a clog...same situation with poor first layer on that right side.

Ill go ahead and try a benchy or 3d calibration model now. I'm doing the first layer as I print lots of labeled panels, signs, and other thin artwork facing down to get a smooth first layer on the face if the print. Seems I may have to start printing the faces pointing up and iron them or even made the drastic move of reaching out to bambu support as I used to be able to get a clean first layer.

BenevolentX [OP] 1 points · Oct 2023

I also have a slight rattle coming from the print head now that I didn't have before. But I think it's just the cover rattling, it did get knocked off but seems fine and is just the part fan.

https://preview.redd.it/zu9lvu05s0ub1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=a7378c5b472ea937c075486e2156593fabb3705e

Curious though if this slightly wrapped gap to my print head micro lidar is normal. May have been there before, haven't inspected it this close prior.

Historical-Fee-9010 2 points · Oct 2023 · H2D AMS2 AMS-HT

https://preview.redd.it/bvv123ie6cub1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=f9a84f41a1edd1808d318be35f1b92f40b7fc482

You mean the gap at the back? Mine looks the same

BenevolentX [OP] 1 points · Oct 2023

Sweet. Yours does look the same, thanks for helping me rule that out.

my-Age-66-2023 1 points · Oct 2023

pause, clean, resume

disloyalturtle 2 points · Oct 2023 · P1S + AMS

Could you add a pause at layer 0 to have it automatically pause after laying down the purge line?🤔

nitwitsavant 3 points · Oct 2023 · X1C

Yes. I’ve done it even with the calibration lines if you are doing flow comp

BenevolentX [OP] 1 points · Oct 2023

I know...should have done that. I failed to pause in time twice in a row so resorted to this. My impatience cost me for sure. The slight delay after pressing pause before it actually stops is an adjustment.

Black3ternity 1 points · Oct 2023 · X1C

Oh like others have said you should probably try bed tramming. Yes I've had that struck of Genius aswell. "Ah there is a little blob of filament hanging around, let me quickly sweepnit away while it prints the infill." 1 second later while I carefully search for a spot to quickly put my Finger in, the toolhead jumps to another spot to start infill there instead of finishing it's "current path". Yuck.. That could have hurt. Then I thought to myself: This printer is 3 times as quick in printing and 4 times as fast in travel speed than my S1 Pro... The "crushing caution" warning below the bed is no joke.

Luckily for you it's just a gash in the bed and not a hurt Finger.

BenevolentX [OP] 2 points · Oct 2023

Exactly! Glad it didn't dig right into my hand. Even worse my girl was right next me me and said "aren't you going to scratch it with that?" and my dumba** was like "nah I got this, I'll be super quick". Crash, bang, boom, scrape, curse, bang.

Her over there just shaking her head in disapproval as she left the room to go make dinner instead. 😂

MasterRymes 1 points · Oct 2023 · H2D AMS2 Combo

What Plate is this?

BenevolentX [OP] 1 points · Oct 2023

PEO plate from Amazon that through pure magic, transfers the reflective pattern to your generic plastic print.

Comes in large triangles like my pictures above: HzdaDeve PEI PEO Sheet for Bambu... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CCCSH23M?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Or small triangles: IdeaFormer Smooth PEO+Textured... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BY4T67H3?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Even a sick carbon fiber weave for PLA-CF to look like carbon: IdeaFormer-3D Smooth Carbon Fiber... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVM2SG62?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

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bitzorbites 1 points · Feb 2024

did you ever figure out what the issue is?