u/Apprehensive-Draw409

When you turn the handle all the way up, it rotates around the bottom two hinges and the top opens forward to let air in.

Oscillo-batante in French, no idea how it is called in English.

À ce prix là tu devrais avoir du Mirage commercial ingénierie (ou équivalent) collé et agrafé!

Il aurait pu y avoir du plancher à la place de la planche de transition et une bande mince de transition en métal. Ç'aurait été plus de travail et il aurait fallu qu'ils soient précautionneux de pas faire bouger ta céramique. Il aurait fallu enlever les moulures de portes et les remettre.

Question de budget et de pointillieux ou pas.

Plusieurs études ont montré que les gains nets pour la société étaient plus grands si "les petits culs du quartier" ramassent et vont rembourser les canettes.

Tu gagnes du temps pour tes loisirs ou ton travail, ils obtiennent un revenu d'appoint. Réduisent la quantité de recyclage, réduisent les émissions de CO2, utilisent le point de consigne à des périodes moins achalandées, etc.

On peut leur trouver un meilleur nom, non?

If I were to investigate this:

• outlet tester on all outlets first to confirm all grounds and neutrals are at the same potential
• multimeter testing all grounds to check they have no voltage difference between them and have connectivity between each pair of ground

If those two show no issue, you can very likely isolate the issue to a single piece of equipment. Like, the TV?

You should not use an extension cord for a permanent install. Most code forbid it.

If you must, use a heavy duty one, with larger wires (lower AWG number or higher mm² area). Use the shortest extension possible. But plan a permanent circuit at some point.

Even then, if you regularly eat sushi/tartare there's no reason to not continue going to places you know and didn't make you sick before. Do you think Japanese women stop sushi when pregnant?

Avoiding new weird stuff is legit though. Avoiding alcohol too.

I can only go by what Google guessed about you, but most places have a drop-off for dangerous goods. For example:

Minuteman Regional HHW Facility
Government office
Lexington, MA, United States

Is an option

I would not focus on the rocks. The plastic container with numbers and colors matching the fire diamond is the stored product.

The rocks are just there to protect/absorb/neutralize whatever nasty stuff is in the bottle.

H 2 is hazardous (to health)
F 3 is something that is combustible at room temperature.
At least it is not reactive.

As an example Toluene would fit the bottle label. Or if we look for a catalyst, Methyl Methacrylate would fit.

If OP was asking in good faith, the only realistic risk would be if the substation still uses PCB. Does yours still do?

Or, in my case, some dangerous herbicides are forbidden in my city. The substation nearby (1Km) still uses them because they're exempt. Is this a realistic risk from the substation? No, grasping at straws.

The only impact electromagnetic fields have on humans is the heat generated by the absorbed EM radiation.

That's it. There's nothing more to say. The only impact ever measured, in any serious study, is by the amount warmer you get.

Maybe super high frequencies do a bit more, but, no big deal: the power station near your house is at 60hz.

Now if you look at correlations, it's a different deal. Poorer people live near substations. Poorer people smoke more and have access to less pure drugs. So, people living near substations have more fentanyl addictions (statistically). But... The electricity has nothing to do with it.

Public transit with communauto flex when needed is the cheapest.

Not directly a fire hazard. The real issue is that your oven heating element and the fridge/light/etc end up in series. So, one might be getting 80V and the other 40V. It might not sound too bad except when you consider that the fridge compressor will definitely burn out if it is kept at 40V or 80V. Same for electronic devices, and electric motors.

So, this is a urgent "don't use anything 240V for now" situation, and get this fixed ASAP.

Most computer theory problem can't be ELI5.

But... They think the most complex problems computers can solve don't become as complex as fast as we thought when we make them more complex.

It would be one (the?) of the most important results in computer science since Turing.

For 240V in NA we use black for phase 1 and red for phase 2, with a voltage between the two of 240V.

For 120V we use white for neutral and red or black for phase, with a difference of 120V.

So, if OP truly has 240V between a white and black, their installation is not up to code.

Si tu lis 240 sur line, ton installation est pas au code. Blanc c'est pour neutre. Ton arrivée devrait être en rouge/noir.

Aussi: combien de pi.ca?

175 ohm à 240V c'est juste 330W, ça ferait 22 pi.ca. à 15W/pi.ca. Même une très petite salle de bain est us grande que ça.

That's ok, the other end of those conductors go out through unprotected holes that have been gnawed in the panel by squirrels.

(If you allow a question by a non-electrician: what is this lone neutral at the bottom of the panel for? )

Oui, c'est cher, mais quand OP va ouvrir son mur lui même, si la laine est pourrie, il va pouvoir mettre du Roxul et améliorer son confort. Un entrepreneur va juste refermer le tout en s'en calissant.

Mon point est qu'il faut s'impliquer, comprendre c'est quoi une maison et laisser juste les bonnes affaires aux pros: - les fils - les tuyaux - les poutres et les studs - la finition si tu veux que ce soit clean

Le rough, tu sauves les 3/4 du prix en le faisant toi même et c'est mieux fait souvent (mais plus long)

Plusieurs facteurs:

• les entrepreneurs ne veulent pas s'embarquer dans des petits projets.
• les clients veulent des solutions clé-en-maim, où ils ont le minimum d'impact sur leur vie.

Une porte d'entrée, le prix est ridicule ci-haut. Tu vas chez Alumilex (très haut de gamme) tu choisis la porte à 5000$. Ça vient avec l'installation. Mais va falloir que tu ouvres le mur toi même. À la limite tu paies le contracteur pour poser les trois studs de chaque bord et le header. Genre un autre 5000$. Tu gardes la finition, le gypse, le caulking pour toi.

Et oui, entre la prise se mesure et la pose, durant la fabrication, tu vis avec une planche de plywood comme porte/mur.

An s-trap with an AAV is a thing. You're still supposed to have a 4 inch trap arm even with an AAV.

That would be an s-trap. The trap length has to be 4 inch.

Yes. :-)

People made it necessary.

You are the reason car manuals these days tell us not to drink the battery acid.

Yes. It would work. As others have said, you should bring a neutral to the switch, if you are touching that circuit.

Do you expect the switch to be gfci protected? It is not.

E.g. if you stand in a puddle of water and lick/bite the switch, the gfci will not protect you from electrocution.

Whether this is a likely scenario or not depends on you. :-)