u/BongDomrei

There are better layouts--with many of the best already having been mentioned--especially for split keyboards with thumb keys, but any Colemak variant will give you 95% of their benefit. Dvorak was great when I used it I the 90's but it makes no sense to use it now that so many better options are available. 

For auto parts you'll want to use ABS, ASA, and/or PA6. The first two work better with a heated chamber and require it for larger parts and the third requires it for everything. The least expensive option that will work absolutely stock is the Qidi Q2. Pruda XL would be fantastic but cost a lot more. Most enclosed printers can have a chamber heater added but the electronic parts may not really like the additional heat, so buying one that comes with one is safest. 

I had really good results with the following printing the MX Lamés: - 0.2mm nozzle - 0.08mm layer heightt - 45 degree angle (stem down) - Print by Object - Slow print speeds--I used 40mm/s for PETG on outer walls and top surface. Some people put them on a corner. I put them on a side.  - support blockers on stem holes - tree supports

Your 2nd and 3rd points can be completely disregarded. Using QMK or ZMK means you can put any switch anywhere you want it. 

I have thumb RSI so I'm very careful not to overuse my thumbs, but I would hate going from 3 thumb keys to two. 

I don't find ZMK annoying at all, and this is my first mechanical keyboard. 

Are you sure it fails to save? A SAVE_CONFIG command will indeed restart the printer and generate an error on Nebula. That is normal. 

Yes, but unless they have changed it since reopening, which is certainly possible, it is only served on Fridays.

I was not aware of that. I live rather far away so I don't get up there much any more. I was there about a month ago and they did not mention anything about closing.

Rose and Crown on Fridays only, Family Pub any day of the week except Monday when they are close. Neither is near Toul Kork but Family Pub is the closer of the two. 

It is out of my budget so I have not looked into it too much. (Most of what I know about the K2 Plus  comes from researching the base K2 which I just ordered, and my knowledge of the H2D is just from simple curiosity about it and wanting to learn more.) What I've read is good. Try checking out the Qidi and  Max4 subreddits. 

• Your rules agree with my findings.
• Different heights can help, but two layer thumb keys in aligned columns seem to work best if the upper keys is only used as part of a combo with the key below it. If you hate seeing it go unused, assign it a macro that you won't use often.
• I have slightly short thumbs with average length fingers, and I can't use dual row clusters because that causes the lower keys to be too close to my palm. 
• Check out the Kyria, which was early inspiration for the Klor, which then begot the totem. 

Check out https://vitejs-vite-duplicat-ej3y.bolt.host/ if you're using OrcaSlicer. It might not entirely solve your problem but it should help. 

Then I'd say go for it. The CC2 seems to have generally very happy users--much more than the original did--and you've done your homework. 

Your last sentence is exactly my thinking after many of the conversations I've had with Bambu owners who were completely stumped by things I just consider routine now. (That does not include people with P1S print farms and 10+ years of experience who knew exactly what they were doing when they made their choice.) I'm very glad that I was unable to afford the A1 I wanted and had to settle for a KE. Just ordered a K2 yesterday. 

Sounds well thought out, but make sure that is not a temporary sale price. 

Yeah, that is exactly what you should expect on an enclosed printer with no chamber heater. I've read good reviews of the Chitu H2 when used with the base K2. I plan to purchase one. 

I almost bought the Pro but about 80% of the reports I read said manual calibration was more accurate, which was enough to tip the scales for me. I'm waiting for my base model K2 to ship. 

I think it is more like you need to wait until it has been out for at least 6 months. I'm seeing this on almost every Creality printer released in the last two years except maybe the Spark i7. Does that make it OK? Absolutely not. 

If cost is a factor, the Q2 is the winner. If not, the X2D has dual tool heads which is great for supports or labels on functional parts, and the K2 Plus has a much larger build volume and some other nice features. (I don't like Bambu but the X2D is the one printer they make that seems reasonably priced for what you get.)

They are the best silent linears I have found, but the margin between them and even slightly below average silent linears of similar weight and activation distance is maybe 5% in my opinion. There is just a lot more difference between tactiles than linears to me, if the specs are similar. 

However, if you spend more than 182 days in Cambodia and are therefore classified as a resident, even if you leave the country to perform work and are paid outside of Cambodia, you technically still owe tax on that income.  

Hopefully someone who knows more will reply with some specific troubleshooting steps you can take  but the first thing that occurs to me would be to try  a different slicer like Orca.  You don't need to change permanently if you prefer to use Creality Print but if the change worked then it would give you a better idea of where the problem lies.

Or try asking Gemini, ChatGPT,  or Claude.  

That is completely incorrect, which  you could discover in 5 or 10 seconds on Google or your preferred AI tool.  Well they do not currently actively pursue it  the law states that you are taxed on your entire worldwide income.