u/CodenameZion

If youre alright with spec flying, I believe DCL: The Game still has a ps version, and you should be able to use a radio on ps if I am not mistaken

of course these devs cant just add the simple fix of opting out of EVER using the passenger seat

... you know you can turn off passengers for seats in the vehicle config right? Then the new avatars wont ever go there

Can you take a closeup picture of the resistors? Also post your code please

Are you sure all of the resistors are the same? If theyre not all 220 then you could be losing current and thus brightness on those dimmer ones

You can also do some registry editing and add your consumer card and solidworks will register it as an "approved" card. Thats how ive gotten realview graphics on my 6800xt or 3050

Then your esc is dead

If motors spin fine in betaflight, it could just need more idle rpm. Bump your idle up and see if that helps

Really what I am giving up on is interoperability. Yes, djis video system is pretty undeniably the best video quality. But if I tried to shove it on a 65mm whoop? Fat chance it flies even half as well as an ultralight analog build. Because dji has kept their system closed, I can't get both dji and analog and hdzero on one set of hardware without hacking at the thing. And when I have to load everything in a backpack, keeping it all condensed is frankly pretty valuable. And then beyond that, I just dislike companies that try to force you into a single stream ecosystem. Same reason I dislike apple, same reason I dislike Microsoft, same reason I dislike Google. They all want to make you use as much of their stuff as possible so they can wring you for all youre worth. And I just dont jive with that. I much prefer systems where I have the option to put whatever video system I want into it via an hdmi port. And to have many different manufacturers that all provide decent options for radio link, video link, flight control, whatever. So while DJI really hasn't done anything wrong, the way they have created such a closed ecosystem just doesnt sit right with me.

Looks like youre getting 2 phases energized but not the third. I know its a lot of effort, but the only way to know for sure if its motor or esc is to move a working motor to that esc and see if it still happens. If it does, its esc, if not, its motor

https://giphy.com/gifs/Qz3fzoG7zhRup5sfzY

So white and blue was a dunce and that looks 100% intentional. Green was there the whole time. If you're green, I'd absolutely report blue for intent wreck

Not sure if its not on crunchy, but i know its a Netflix show: My Happy Marriage

👁️ Surveillance State: I voted Vote Yea.

Id presume "undersling toilet style" so sideways and on the bottom. The battery strap would be front to back in those slots

Correct, elrs version only matters for elrs stuff. For instance, the transmitter module and receiver need to be on the same major revision to talk (3.x.x vs 4.x.x) that's the only time it matters

The capacitor is there to specifically reduce voltage wobble to the motors and processors. I would assume the PDB is relatively well filtered, but it would not hurt to put an additional one on the input voltage to the ESC. I typically use individual ESCs for builds this big and those always get their own cap

On the side of the 4in1 you didnt show in the video, there should be two battery pads. Solder these to a VBAT and GND output from the PDB. It has its own regulators for its processors and needs full voltage for the motors. As for signal, there was likely a harness that plugs into there that came with the esc. It likely has plugs on either end, but you will need to cut the plug on the end that doesnt plug into the esc and solder wire extensions. Look up the pinout for that connector and you will need to wire the signal wires and ground wires from there to the FC. Based on what I can find online, there should be an I/O PWM port on the pixhawk board. Assuming the configuration is set up correctly, you should be able to take the M1 Input (ESC side) and set it to I/O PWM 1 and the esc should be able to receive that. Make sure you run the ground wire alongside the signal wires to reduce signal interference

OP this is the answer. You can see in the betaflighr firmware drop down you have a 4.5.5 option. This was the last 4.5.x version before they moved to the new 2025.x and 2026.x naming scheme. Your betaflight version is currently 4.5.3 and needs to be at least 4.5.4 for that feature to work, so you should update to at least 4.5.5 or so, though any of the 2026.x versions will work as well and are more recommended. Just be sure to backup your configuration to apply to the new firmware when you install it

Send back to be replaced as an RMA. That is the equivalent of a dead on arrival drone

Yep, youre right. Maybe something got smashed when changing out the canopy. Otherwise yeah its a setting thing

That would be the easiest solution, but i would attempt to trim and resolder the wires to see if anything improves. Not like you can make things much worse

Regardless of the plugs, the wires can break internally. I've had it happen and had to trip the wires back from the camera and resolder

You may have broken one of the wires going to the camera

I'm assuming they meant the non-standard form factors, such as on the THII and THI with their very wide boards. But this looks normal

So again, custom firmware. All betaflight flight controllers just run the basic stm32 bootloader. So, you can completely rewrite everything that you need to put on there but now your dev board already has all the hardware included. And you can dump the bf target using Dump all In the bf cli and you will also get all of the hardware pin assignments so you don't have to reverse engineer anything. I think that is the smartest way to go about it