u/ForumFollower

Minimally functional CNC programming is actually quite easy - especially if you already have some PC programming and electronics experience. GCode is frustratingly simple compared to higher level languages, but it can be made to do a surprising amount with some creativity.

Making safe, efficient programs that yield parts with tight tolerances requires much more experience. It's about more than just making the tool move along paths and surfaces. It's about understanding what's happening at the edge of the tool, and having a "feel" without the feedback you get from a manual machine.

If possible, get some hobby equipment to learn on, or join a "Maker space". Older versions of mainstream CAD and CAM software are readily available "if you know where to look", and they'll teach you the fundamentals of the software. Moving to newer versions isn't difficult, as the core doesn't change much. YouTube is full of helpful tutorials, and AI is sometimes useful to jump start learning if the topic is common enough to have been included in training data.

If you can demonstrate your self-taught skills and experience, I think that would go much farther with a smaller shop than an organized class. Formal education has, in many places, become a joke. Larger companies seem to care more about credentials, so work your way up to that from the smaller places that will give you a chance.

Regarding money, you will almost certainly be taking a step down for a while. Expect it. But in the end, if you are enjoying what you do more and making enough to live your life, do you really need more? In time, if you are able to excel beyond your peers and actively pursue the opportunities that are best for you, it will probably work out well.

It has for me, and much of the above was the path that I took.

Almost always gloves. Often regret when I don't.

The other advantage to gloves is when a big coal or log comes shooting out of the stove. Without gloves, panic ensues. With gloves, you just pick it up and toss it back in.

The answer is "it depends"...

Especially for lower volume parts, the method of manufacture matters less. So long as you can create the widget out of the specified material more or less within tolerance, the challenge is usually to do it as inexpensively as possible.

Moving to higher volume production this needs to be considered much more. Something that began it's life machined from a solid block of "billet" aluminum might turn into a casting with only a few machined features. The redesign that should be done here is often skipped or done poorly, resulting in trying to machine features that are difficult, expensive, or just plain impossible.

Bringing it back to 3D printing, this is even more relevant. There are many features that can be 3D printed that can't be machined. It isn't rational to assume that a 3D printed prototype can be manufactured by other means.

I'd consider CAD mistakes separately from design mistakes. You can have a great design and completely botch the CAD, and likewise the other way around.

Maybe part of the problem is that there's much less separation between the CAD and design now because it's a lot lower effort than in bygone decades.

For example, a CAD mistake would be to have a group of features linked to something like a chamfer, then later when you decide you no longer want the chamfer it breaks everything down the chain. Good CAD needs to be flexible and adaptable to change.

Design, on the other hand, would be more of the things you've listed.

Good tip. Cheaper than the time it would take me to cobble together something that may or may not end up working.

Thanks! I wasn't looking at gas stuff, but this would probably do the trick.

I have 3 bars and 3 chains with me at all times.

I'm ashamed to say I've had 2 stuck in the same tree, and proud to say I've never gotten the third one stuck!

I'm still on the same 3 I started with, though admittedly don't cut a lot.

Your understanding might be one issue, but there are plenty of drawings out there made by people who do not fully understand how to properly apply GD&T. Trying to understand something like this is futile.

A few years ago, I would have told you that I understood GD&T. I did not.

Fast forward to today, and I have better than average understanding, and a good base upon which to keep expanding my knowledge. I got a head start by taking courses from GD&T Basics, and combined this with on-the-job exercise helping to improve a pile of older drawings.

This is a good situation to ask the question: "why?"

I'm assuming that your 2D sketch represents a shaft rather than a disc. My response is more relevant if the former is true, but probably applies to both.

If there's some obscure reason why the width of that flat is genuinely important, then fine. But I doubt it. More often than not, dimensions are thrown on drawings with little consideration of how it will be measured and reported.

More likely, the position of the flat relative to the shaft OD or CL is the important dimension. The orientation might also come into play.

"Is it possible to determine whether someone is a moron with only one question?"

With the current state of subtractive metal machining (milling, turning, grinding), 3D printing experience isn't going to give you much, if any, advantage over someone else without it.

If you have interest, space, and some spare cash, then get yourself a MANUAL hobby size, or "old iron" mill and lathe. Pick a project or two, and with the help of YouTube and online communities, learn how to get it done yourself. 

Switching careers at 40+ is possible, but maybe not advisable. Unless you're really lucky finding a great company and mentor, you will spend a number of years doing lower pay entry level jobs (button pusher) without learning much.

If that's okay for you, your family, and your retirement then go for it!

I made a switch from software development to machining when I was in my early 30s. I had a lot of prior experience with hobby machining, electronics, and programming that ushered me into a great CNC Programming & Machining career.

I will never understand the motivation for some downvotes.

Now, commenting like this on how little sense they can make sometimes? That's a good reason for a downvote. <sigh>

Proceed to click away...

Thanks, I'll see if I can find anything legible there.

Maybe it has been sitting in a mud puddle for a decade. If there are valuable parts, it would be rather silly to throw it out without doing a bit of research first, don't you think?

Thanks!

Educated guess, or are there some telltale characteristics leading you to this conclusion?

Did you though?

'Cause I haven't seen one.

🤷🏼

I wouldn't doubt it

To the best of my knowledge there's no recent rodent activity.

Thanks for this!

Yes, I'm very handy. I've tackled many projects over the years but this is a new one for me.

Sounds very credible 🤣

I'm on the fence whether to renovate or tear down this house, but I do want it to be safe while I'm occupying it.

I will look into both options - vacuum rental and professional.

Thanks for your input.

Given your experience, can you suggest how removal is best accomplished? If it can be done without hiring a "professional", that's my preference. Although I'm convinced this is cellulose, I intend on getting some tested for asbestos before I'd do it myself.

I like it!

I'm considering what to build myself, and the idea of multiple functional bays is compelling.

Just a quick thought regarding tool sharpening in the same space... fine if it's manual, but if powered and creating sparks then you want to keep this far away from your dry firewood and the dry wooden structure.

Perhaps it could be mitigated, but I'm picturing an errant spark landing in some sawdust, then smouldering after you close up and go to bed, then reducing everything to ashes by morning.