u/Im1Random

What about really cheap ones with a voltage below 2V, that I like to salvage and revive from old laptop batteries?

Of course, the process for the NVR is exactly the same as modding cameras

Now that we know it's for AI search, I think they didn't wanna risk that the AI shows certain (or just random) people when you search for offensive words.

If I had that NVR I would absolutely remove all words from the list, repack and install the update image and then see how the AI reacts to those words. Especially which kind of people it will show for certain blocked search terms.

I think I've solved the mystery! After completely taking apart the play binary (which is the only file referencing the list) it looks like it's a blacklist for AI video search terms. If you search for a shit fucker at the front door, it should immediately throw an error.

What even is an ape shit?

1. Download the update file for your model
2. Extract the pak(s) image using pakler
3. Extract the app partition using ubireader_extract_images
4. Extract the partitions contents using unsquashfs

https://hastebin.com/share/bopeticivi.sql

No but ass eating nob jokeys

It's in the root of the app partition in the firmware for the RLN12W NVR. I assume TTS for cameras and doorbells would be done on the device itself or in the Reolink app and not on the NVR.

Nah it contains nothing like that. This is a small section from it as an example: ... amphetamine anal anal hole anal hore anal pirate analingus analplug analplugs anarchist androst anilingus animal fucker anorexic anti-government anti-police anus anus plug ape shit ape shite apeshit apeshite ar5e ar5ehole arse arse gobbler arse hole arse-bandit arse-bandits arse-fucker arse-fuckers arse-hole arse-shagger arsefuck arsefucker arsehole arseshit arsewipe ashole ass ass bandit ...

Fahrräder und E-Scooter haben meiner Meinung nach grundsätzlich garnix auf der Straße verloren. Für sowas sollte der Radweg oder Gehweg sein.

Hab ich so noch nie beobachtet. Da wo ich fahre fahren alle nen halben Meter aneinander ran und warten dann ganz normal im Stillstand so hätte ich jetzt auch gesagt ist es richtig.

Falls dus noch nicht bemerkt hast, Autofahrer kommunizieren über den Abstand einfach nur miteinander. Viel Abstand = Alles Okay, Wenig Abstand = Fahr zu du H..., bedeutet, wenn der hinter dir näher kommt, ist es deine Aufgabe als guter Autofahrer Gas zu geben (und zu halten) um wieder genügend Abstand herzustellen. Eigentlich ganz einfach wenn mans mal verstanden hat.

Das ist vielleicht in der Theorie und Fahrprüfung, im richtigen Verkehr kann man aber schon erwarten, dass man mindestens das fährt was aufm Schild steht. Mindestens.

Schleicher sind das aller Schlimmste. Vor allem die, die schnell noch vor einem rausfahren und dann ihr kack Gas Pedal nicht bedienen können. An alle die das machen FICKT EUCH.

The firmware of all Reolink cameras is structured about the same. The only difference I noticed with the Duo 3 WiFi is that there's an additional ai partition between rootfs and app which could be interesting for deeper investigation. And for more recent models in general, you might need to downgrade to a version before October 2025, because there Reolink introduced the new ".paks" format which pakler can only read but not modify at the time.

One very important thing I learned: As soon as you have a shell, dump the entire content of the flash to a file on your computer (for models with NAND flash: ssh root@<ip> "nanddump /dev/mtd10" > nand-dump.bin). On one occasion I messed up so bad that I needed to desolder the flash chip and reflash the backup that I fortunately made. Oh and never try to randomly mount MTD partitions that contain raw data. The integrated mount utility has no safety checks and will mess up the bootloader and kernel by simply trying to mount them as a partition.

When it comes to the process of modding most Reolink devices: I basically extracted the update file using pakler, ubireader and unsquashfs. From the extracted system binaries I gathered the necessary information to configure buildroot for the cameras CPU, where I then compiled a statically linked dropbear and sftp-server binary. Then I placed those binaries on the SD card and added a few lines to /etc/init.d/start_app in order to start them on boot. After that the only thing left was changing the root password in /etc/passwd or /etc/shadow and repacking the images in the opposite order. I could also have added authorized keys for public key authentication, but I felt like a password is enough for me.

I modded all of my 6 different models with SSH/SFTP access in order to be able to delete recordings from the SD card. I'll never understand why a fundamental feature like this is not available in the app.

If you're already using HomeAssistant the manufacturer/ecosystem doesn't matter at all. You could do it like me and buy the cheapest Zigbee sensors you can find on Aliexpress. Most of the time they work just as well as branded ones.

We don't want a metering only mode, Tasmota was always able to do that basically forever. We want a smart plug that physically has no relay that consumes power being on all the time and leads to an outage if the power supply/internal electronics ever fail. I've been looking for an off-the-shelf plug-in energy monitor with wifi but NO switching capability forever but manufacturers don't see the point in making a product like this.

It's so white and bright, I almost got blind from looking at the picture

I use it every day for copying SSH passwords and for logging into desktop apps, probably one of the most important features lol

I'd actually prefer the SSR bacause it doesn't make any noise, but I've never worked with them. Do I still need the snubber if the relay is never supposed to cut power under load (just the standby current of the power supplies) and if yes which type?