u/JacobStyle

Sometimes a printer will just lose its mind for no discernible reason. In these cases, you can sometimes fix it by downloading the latest firmware from the manufacturer and installing it on the printer.

This is the answer right here. Replacing the keyboard module is the most likely fix, but something like the super glue trick may work just fine or at least keep the laptop working "good enough" while you order a replacement keyboard.

You didn't post the model of the TV or any detailed pictures of the edges, so nobody is going to be able to answer you.

It's most likely too far gone to be worth fixing, but my way of looking at it is always that, if I'm just going to throw it away anyway, I might as well dig in and try to fix it, even if it's a long shot. Could be a loose ribbon or something.

Okay but you didn't post your location (even what country you're in), so nobody is going to be able to give you any meaningful advice.

Not sure where this "never assign 1" nonsense comes from. I've never had a problem with not being able to set priorities correctly during an emergency, and I use 1 all the time.

I give 1 to firefight, patient, and bed rest (and doctor for my doctor). Tasks with equal numbers are prioritized left to right, so if you have a pawn with 1 in firefighting and 1 in construction, that pawn will always prioritize firefighting over construction.

With three pawns, you will have some need to double up, but ideally, you want a main pawn for each job.

You have a solid doctor, which is great. Your doctor can also cook, mine, and research. Research is never-ending, so anything prioritized below research will never get done unless a research bench is unavailable. Right now, that pawn will never cook. Unless you have nutrient paste set up, cooking should probably take priority over mining or research.

You have a solid farmer pawn who can also mine. Assigning 1 to the plant skills and 2 to the mining will put them in a position to plant/harvest and then mine if there is nothing left to plant/harvest.

Your construction pawn also has crafting and social. Warden first, then construction, then smith/tailor/craft looks good already.

One note is that for jobs that can be botched or that give quality levels to outputs, it's best to unassign all but the best pawns. Only that farmer pawn should be harvesting anything. Only the construction pawn should be doing construction or crafting jobs. Only the construction pawn should be wardening.

I wouldn't recommend trying it on a camera you rely on, but if the 80D is a backup or extra one you have lying around just for fun, doing some experimentation might be fun.

3-digit Base 62 latitudes and longitudes (or base 36 if these are not case sensitive) will get you "narrowed down as far as possible to any given location on the globe."

How do you know what it's like to put your penis inside an elephant's mouth??

I am actually in favor of people playing on their phones between sets, as long as they aren't going overboard and hogging machines. Whatever makes them feel comfortable enough to stick with their routine year after year is what they should do, even if it's not perfectly hyperoptimized.

Don't they give you an actual manual with verified answers for this stuff? Why are you asking Google Gemini?

SO says "your shit is closed due to a vaguely similar topic being discussed already." Meanwhile, I'm like, "Claude, I don't want to scroll up and find it. What was that loading function called again?"

I have been working on computers, printers, and other electronics for decades and could count on my fingers the number of times I have used compressed air during a cleaning. Vacuum is where it's at. Brush attachment for anything that clings to a surface, super narrow attachment for stubborn crevices.

I don't know for this game in particular, but I have seen that some games do not work well with the standard AHK functions, not because they are intentionally blocking them, but because they just don't detect the AHK keystrokes properly. AHK 2.0 supports different send modes and other options, and getting macros to work with any given game may require fiddling around with these to find something that works. For example, I have had ones where I had to send the keydown event, then a delay, then the keyup event, as separate lines to get the game to accept the input.

edit: forgot to include the link to the relevant documentation: https://www.autohotkey.com/docs/v2/lib/Send.htm

The bundle especially makes a lot of sense for a company that services hundreds of printers across a large territory. The service call is already costing the service company $50-100 in labor and travel just to have the tech show up to the client, before they even touch the machine. In a case like that, it makes sense, if a $3 roller is at 50% of life, just to replace it early. There are also often left over parts from the kits, which the tech can then use on other service calls as needed.

Everybody in this thread is being so careful. Meanwhile, I dumped all my disorganized, loosely commented, magic number heavy video game cheats on there with nothing but a readme.md saying "These are my video game cheats." Using Github like a 2006 Youtuber.

sadly, I have not seen fusers with replaceable sleeves on desktop printers. I've seen rebuildable fusers on some higher end Canon copiers and production machines (big ones like you'd find in dedicated printing rooms in big office buildings or schools), but even then most of the normal Canon copiers you'd find in typical offices have you do the whole fuser at once. Even harvesting sleeves of broken fusers is impractical because 90% of the time, a damaged sleeve is the whole reason for the replacement, and in the other cases, the fuser is often so old that the sleeve is already showing signs of wear and is not worth recovering. Thankfully, on the monochrome Brother printers, it's only about $100, which is about as cheap as a fuser will ever get. On most desktop printers, it's closer to $200. One bonus though is often, the replacement fusers ship as a full maintenance kit with replacement rollers and other little replaceable parts that wear out frequently.

I think the issues with this sub not being as DIY/repair focused have to do with a set of rather unfortunate incentives, which I have written about before in more detail: https://www.reddit.com/r/BuyItForLife/comments/1wndezf/comment/pbg3sro/

I really wish this sub had more of a repair culture. I'm a big BIFL guy, but I feel like buying things for life has a lot more to do with repair and maintenance than shopping.

Not at all. It's a fine machine.

Its biggest BIFL limitation is that the fuser is difficult to replace. It's rated for 150k pages, but if the sleeve tears (can happen naturally or if a paperclip gets caught in it or something) replacing it requires removing the entire back half of the machine, and the new fuser is over $200. Non an impossible repair if you're handy, and definitely saves over replacing the whole printer, but it's not the quick, inexpensive swap you get in some other printers.

All the feed/sep rollers can be replaced without hassle. If you start getting paper feed jams, it's usually because these rollers have developed flat spots, or the tread has worn off. Usually happens every 20-30k pages or so.

Same cardstock fix for process-direction voids applies to its cartridges if you start getting that issue with one of them before it's time to replace it. For a color printer, the void will usually only be one color, so if you are printing something with a lot of color coverage, it may look like a discolored band running down your print, rather than a blank area, since only one of the colors is missing. You can eyeball this to see which cartridge it is, and also use the print to line the discolored band up with the offending cartridge to see exactly where the obstruction is.

Often, a janky cartridge is either impossible or impractical to repair, but I always take the route of, "if I'm just going to throw it away anyway, I might as well see if I can fix it." though with toner cartridges, it's important to have a good vacuum and some Stretch 'n Dust rags around to clean up spills.

I used to work on printers. Current conventional wisdom is that Brother laser printers are the way to go. If you get one where the drum is separated from the toner cartridge, the toner is cheap to replace every 5k prints or so, and the drum can last 100k+ prints. If you find a deal on toner, you can stock up. It lasts years on the shelf as long as you aren't storing it in 100+ degree heat or something.

For BIF(nearly)L, you'll want to be able to do some repairs.

The first things to go are usually the separation roller (or sep pad if it's one of the ones with a pad) and feed rollers in the paper tray. They need to be replaced every 20-30k pages. It's maybe $5-10 worth of parts that you can find on ebay, and about 5 minutes to replace them with really basic tools.

The fuser can fail, usually with a torn fuser sleeve. I've seen laser printer fusers go strong for 200k prints, and I've seen them fail after the first 30k. Fuser replacement can be as simple as popping open the back and pulling a few latches, or it can require a complete disassembly of the machine, depending on printer model. Replacement fuser is usually about $100.

If you get weird gunk on the drum (especially if printing labels), and you need a solution to clean off the drum surface, saliva works better than any household cleaners. Best balance of breaking down bad stuff without damaging the drum surface. Also any time you have the drum out of the machine, unless you're working on it directly, put a few sheets of paper over it to shield it from the light. This will lengthen the life of your drum. You don't have to be perfectly strict about this, like it's not going to explode or anything, just don't make a habit of leaving it sitting out for an hour with nothing covering it.

If you start getting void lines in your prints in the direction that the paper comes out (basically like part of the drum is not working) you may have some debris trapped in the drum/developer cartridge (different models have different setups for this but basically if the drum is connected to a larger cartridge and you can't access the drum all the way around). You can knock the debris loose or sometimes even fish it out, by sliding a piece of card stock into the narrow gap between the drum and toner/developer.

I don't use Vim, other than if I'm doing small edits on config files with SSH, but I would still like to go anyway if this is or will become a thing. I've been tinkering on the computer machine ever since I learned how to read. I've checked out Tech Alley before and liked it, but I'd also love something like the old LUG from my small town that was basically just 8 nerds meeting up and talking about video games once a week.

I've already hooked up with partners who had disabilities, health issues, or strong preferences, that required a lot more accommodations than this. Brushing my teeth ain't no thing but a chicken wing. Besides, it's not like I don't also have some strict requirements around partners recent documented STI test results, so it's only fair that I approach others' requests with a spirit of patience and cooperation.

As with any distinctive physical feature like this, there will be some people who find it off-putting, some who don't care much either way, and some who really like it. In your case, at 20 years old, with dark genital skin and puberty stretch marks, the guys who don't care much either way are going to be the biggest population.

You are right that someone you have sex with may end up not being into you after. That's a risk everyone takes no matter what they look like. You could have even skin tone and zero stretch marks, and it could still happen. The thing is, if someone is not into you after having sex, you just move on and find someone who is. It's not the end of the world.