u/Kendrian

I would bet at a minimum Strider misses a start or two to rest it, so I don’t know that I’d conclude anything based on Elder.

Thanks.

Would you sand surfaces even if it’s built from pressure treated lumber? That seems like a really nasty task needing a great deal of care.

Thinking about upgrading from a 4770k to 14700k… the wife says “the old one still works, why do you need a new computer?”

I have, my ideal build would use a 7950x3d. I'm not so sure about the 7950x because I'd like to air cool. I was leaning away from the 7950 because I could build around a 14700k more cheaply.

Thanks, this is helpful. Would it be a reasonable thing to do to go with the 14700 and undervolt/limit the power consumption? I don’t have any experience tweaking really but it seems like limiting power consumption to say 200w gives only a pretty small performance hit. And if I want to do these things am I going to need to allocate more $ to motherboard? If I have to buy a more expensive motherboard then the balance might tip toward just sucking it up and buying a 7950x3d (or going cheaper and lower power, but who wants to do that? Not me).

Hi all, looking at my first SFF build (and first build in 10 years). I have a few wants: should be quite small while still fitting at least an 8-core CPU; I'd like to stick with air cooling, it's served me well for the last decade with 0 maintenance, and I'll keep this PC a long time; total budget: keep it to as close to $1000 as possible.

Uses: some gaming, although the most intense thing I will do is heavily modded Skyrim (and I got results I was happy with out of my GTX 960); productivity, especially compiling code/running scientific simulations. For the productivity stuff I value having as many cores as I can get. I also want an Nvidia GPU with a good amount of VRAM, to target for CUDA programming.

Here's my working setup that comes in around $1200.

I'm curious if there's anywhere I might be able to cut back a bit without using last-generation parts. Or, if I might want to get a slightly fancier mobo that would make it easier to try out undervolting the CPU to get more efficiency in my tiny case.

And with just the AIO would you do it as an intake? It seems like that could cause the temperatures of other components to get pretty high.

OTOH because the case is so small there should be plenty of moving air inside, and it has the ventilated sides. Since the GPU is on the other side and can exhaust its hot air straight out, maybe it’s fine. I guess I could always build it and see how it performs and do some mods if necessary.

I also like the idea of building in an nr200p and having it air cooled. Would rather not have any maintenance/replacement of a liquid cooler to worry about down the road.

Thanks, this is helpful. Is a 280mm radiator going to be able to keep up without any other ventilation? It seems that case doesn’t have any other places to mount fans, I would be concerned that heat build up inside the case would reduce the efficiency of heat transfer from the radiator if its fans are mounted as exhaust and I wouldn’t want to blow hot air in if there aren’t good exhaust fans.

The fan can be mounted under the fins as well as a top, which makes it considerably less than the 140 max height. I’d have to make sure it doesn’t block RAM slots.

I thought it looked like it, but I wasn’t sure. None of the holes are in the right location in line with the wheels so I’ll have to drill them myself.

Yeah, most things in this house are pretty cheap although at the time we moved in it looked amazing compared to our old rental.

Clarifications: for the rail bracket my instructions say go up 2.5” from the highest point of travel. I assume this will be less than 13” if the door is properly installed. When you say the operator must be level or tilting down, this means the rail that the carriage runs along right? Like the door should be going level but a slight downslope toward the motor is ok, but not any slope up? And, a 45 degree angle between door and arm, correct? I guess this is so the force from the opener isn’t pulling in on the metal.

Would any reinforcement like other people are saying be prudent in your opinion? I’m leaning toward not bothering since it is a cheap door anyway and it’s already 10 years old.

Well, I’m not installing a door or doing anything that should require touching the spring. Installing the opener is pretty simple, I just need to know how/where it’s safe to attach it to the door. The rest of the job doesn’t even touch the door.

https://preview.redd.it/ct82eu4prj2c1.jpeg?width=4032&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0c48b86510526c725f576b5f2756205436ece86e

Here is a wide angle of the door.

He’s referring to Glavine back in the day I’m pretty sure.

I'd say they're similar but a slightly better comp for the scorch is a beat-in wraith. I replaced a very beat up wraith with a brand new ESP scorch and found it's almost a perfect replacement.

It looks just like the top of my 1zpresso J-Max but it could be a different manual grinder.

Without very expensive equipment you won’t get results as good as decent specialty roasters. That said, you can get pretty close especially for medium-dark and darker roasts. I’ve been roasting on a Gene Cafe for 8 years.

Recently I tried a bunch of different coffees from different well regarded roasters online and came to the conclusion that for light roasts, I should really just leave it to the pros for those. Good light roasts are very difficult to achieve without prosumer roasting hardware.

The thing that makes shorter shot times desirable is puck degradation. As the pull takes longer it’s more likely for channels to develop. 35 seconds or so is probably a good starting point.

That said, if the coffee tastes good then what you’re doing is fine! I do 1 minute shots on my Robot sometimes that taste amazing. I think it’s a bit different there, though, because I am manually decreasing pressure as the shot goes on. But don’t be afraid to experiment with long shots; they can be delicious too.

I had a Gaggia Classic years ago, got a Robot this fall. Using my same old Vario from years ago I think by day 2 with the Robot I made better shots than I ever got from the Gaggia. It’s truly magical. One day maybe I’ll get an Olympia Cremina and do away with the kettle but I think I’ll always be a manual lever guy now.

The Cafelat Robot has the same value proposition, minus the plug-in heating. I pull light roasts just fine by boiling extra water and preheating the portafilter and group head with that.