u/Linusssk

I found the link! https://github.com/maxmacstn/iPod-Classic-6-mods

Getting the click wheel shell properly aligned is still tricky, even after several attempts. It’s hard to get it working exactly like the original.

First, make sure you have plenty of spare parts. I’d rather spend a little extra than mess something up and have to wait for another AliExpress delivery.
Use a hair dryer to heat the plastic to a reasonable temperature, just enough to soften the adhesive without melting anything. Then slowly and patiently remove the shell(Try mounting the iSesam3 sideways), being careful not to bend or warp the module. After that, thoroughly clean off the remaining adhesive with plenty of isopropyl alcohol.
Also, make sure you align the shell correctly on the first try, especially the Menu and Play/Pause button markings.
I measured the plastic shell thickness using a cheap $6 vernier caliper that only displayed measurements to one decimal place in mm. Try to get the thickness of the Classic shell as close as possible to the original Mini shell.
I think the key is to take your time and be patient. It’s not exactly easy, but it’s definitely doable. Good luck!

https://preview.redd.it/fw72qkmq78yh1.jpeg?width=2225&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=33c4074a5ccec102e3047ada763e9ae06bba5f1c

Well, mini's one is slightly, but distingishable smaller

For those experienced with Mini mods: I had a really hard time fitting everything into the housing. As I mentioned in the post, I ended up removing the rubber padding around the LCD. Since the screen is still somewhat secured physically to the board, I assume it shouldn’t be a big issue, right?

Yes, I think it was posted here too, and the PCB design files were probably available on GitHub. I’ll try to find the link again. I haven’t tried it myself since my micro soldering skills aren’t quite there yet, but it’s said to be one of the easiest USB-C mods. It was originally designed for the Classic, but in theory, it should work with any 30-pin device if you’re willing to give up everything except charging and data transfer.

It’ll take a bit more trial and error to get everything perfect; there are still a few minor issues. But I’d say it’s pretty neat already!

Thank you!

The Classic and Mini click wheels are almost the same size and diameter, so you can make them fit with a bit of sanding. However, their center buttons have different diameters, so you can’t just swap in the Classic’s aluminum center button.

I’m still figuring that out too. The modded type C port is on lower height than the original 30-pin connector, so I can’t reuse the metal bracket. For now, I 3D-printed a 30-pin bezel from Thingiverse, trimmed it with an acrylic cutter, and covered the remaining gaps with tape. It’s still a temporary fix.

I sanded down both the red click wheel and the select button from an iPod classic to get the right thickness. The clicks feel a bit mushier than the original, but it’s an acceptable trade-off.

Looks great! What’s the difference between the USB-C mod bracket and the regular one?

Wow, pink shell looks so sick

1. If you're using one of those cheap "red adapters", 128GB seems to be the general limit. Some might support larger capacities depending on when they were manufactured, but I'm not quite sure. In my case, I just spent a bit more and bought the black iFlash CF-SD adapter , 256GB worked flawlessly. Judging from other's experience, 512GB seems to work fine too, but I think it is a step too far.

2. Wheter it says 500mAh, 700mAh, or 750mAh on the label, that doesn't seem to mean much. With Li-Po batteries, the physsical dimensions seem to matter much more. I bought a battery available locally and transplanted the PCM from the original battery. I used 573040 cell, which was a slightly tight fit but still fit inside the housing and worked fine. It's labled as 700mAh. I'm not sure if this counts as micro-soldering, but even as a beginner at soldering, I didn't find it particularly hard. 503040 cell with 600mAh label would flawlessly too.

I think I’ve also seen someone disassemble a CF-to-SD adapter to make it smaller, though I’m not sure exactly how they did it. Personally, I don’t think reducing the physsical size of the storage adapter to fit a larger battery is a great idea. It might have worked if the connector were at the bottom, like on the Classic 5-7th gen, but the Mini’s logic board layout makes that difficult.

1. First, heat the original click wheel from the front using a hair dryer, then carefully peel off the plastic shell. Clean off any remaining adhesive with isopropyl alcohol. Next, use sandpaper to thin down the plastic shell and select button from a 5th or 6th/7th gen iPod click wheel. A vernier caliper helps you match the thickness of the original shell as closely as possible. If I remember correctly, mine was around 0.85mm.

Finally, attach them in the correct position using a suitable adhesive or the 3M double-sided tape that came with the replacement shell. It takes a bit of patience, but I wouldn’t say it’s particularly difficult.

I’ve always wanted parts like this, but most people just post generic AI-generated slop or throw around ideas that NEVER go anywhere. Well, I hope yours actually becomes a reality.

Amazing

Oh wow, oh wow, oh wow ...

I never thought that it could be patched through software, even by the vibe code. Awesome!

How did you covered the bottom bezel for USB C mod?

Did you use the stock battery, or replaced it with another aftermarket “square” battery?

If you connected an aftermarket battery, you may have connected the positive and negative terminals in reverse. If you look closely at the PCB, you’ll notice that the polarity of the cable connecting the battery directly to the PCB is reversed compared to the cable that connects the PCB to the iPod.

별 생각 없었는데 토스가 블랙패턴 광고 미친듯이 넣고 필요 없는 알림 주구장창 보내기 시작하면서부터 꼴보기 싫어졌어요

Is there any easy way to add playlist on iPod through the app?

oh dear