u/Magiobiwan

For what it's worth, the 120V option barely cools my popup's fridge, but the propane option turns it into a freezer when set to max. Which makes sense when you look at how these fridges work, the more heat that goes in to the ammonia adsorption system the more it can boil off and thus the more it can cool.

Are you going to be towing a tent/travel trailer or anything that needs electric brakes? The OEM kit is a 4-pin, and most if not all travel trailers require a 7-pin. I installed most of (then had a mechanic with a lift finish) a 7-pin kit from Tekonsah for my Highlander, which adds the brakes and 12V trailer power to the line. The turn signals and brake lights wire up from the back still, using the OEM harness position, the brakes and 12v power required lines run up under the vehicle to the engine bay (hence the mechanic with lift because I really didn't want to do that part).

I had them hardwired, so I don't know.

The G410 includes an Aqara matter edge hub controller, so you can add other Aqara Matter sensors to it without needing an extra controller hub. The video quality for HKSV is about the same, local recorded to a Micro SD card is slightly higher resolution on the G410.

I tow a 3500lb GVWR tent trailer with my 2022 Gas Highlander and haven't had any issues so far. I did get an aftermarket 7-pin wiring harness installed and a brake controller for the electric brakes we put on the trailer (came with hydraulic surge brakes that seized up and needed replacement), and it stops fine. We do have some sag in the rear but tongue weight on the trailer was spot on 500lbs, next years season I'm looking at getting a WDH that'll balance the tongue weight a bit better to 400lbs.

Yep, https://discord.com/invite/npb9TrW

Original battery? AGMs have a lifespan of 3-5 years (OEM cheaper end probably to the lower end). I've been noticing the auto-stop kicking off for battery charging a lot with my 2022 v6 and it's right at the same age range. Factor in winter loads with the rear window defrost, seat heater, heat running full blast... lots more load on the battery. Add in a cold engine and battery and the car might have tripped a protection limiter for low battery voltage.

There are article type codes for various animal types. The bigger question is if they have a serial or owner applied number properly on them to even enter them with.

It depends a lot on what your electricity vs. gas prices are. If you have natural gas available, weighing the costs between electricity vs gas will be difficult.

If your options are straight electric vs hybrid heat pump, get a hybrid with electric backup.

The house my wife and I rented until we bought our own house had a hybrid electric. It worked fairly well, and had 240V electric as a boost/fallback option. It did have a sensor fail as we were moving that disabled the heat pump portion, so if we didn't have the electric mode we'd have had trouble. It kept the garage nice and cool during the summer. It did struggle a bit on heat pump mode during winter, but it had logic to bring in the electric resistive heating when the heat pump couldn't keep up.

NCIC has a standardized format for notating dental information which should be entered on missing person records. This is the form with instructions that LE/family of a missing person would give to the persons dentist. The LE agency enters the coded dental string into the record and it becomes searchable.

When an unidentified body is found, the reverse happens. The ME or another dental examiner inspects the teeth present, codes up what they can for each tooth, then the LE agency can query based on the dental string. NCIC will return possible matches and they can then rule out possibilities. For example, if they get back entries for both males and females but they know the body is a male body (due to bone structure or other characteristics) they can rule that out. From there, they can contact the agency that entered the missing person to get the dentists contact information and obtain radiograph images to do a more positive confirmation with. If DNA is possible to recover, they can also do DNA matching against a known sample from the missing person (such as if one was already on file in CODIS due to a felony conviction, or if the family happened to have a good sample source), or from blood relatives (parents, siblings or children) to confirm or refute identification.

If you had to have it topped off or recharged, there's a leak somewhere. AC systems are closed loops, the refrigerant SHOULDN'T be leaking out if the system is in proper condition. Take it to somewhere other than the dealer, ideally a mechanic who has enough HVAC knowledge to properly diagnose a system instead of just throwing refrigerant cans at it. I've read that the lines to the rear A/C evaporator coil can be a common leak point due to how they're run along the body of the car, while the front coil is just through the engine bay.

Even if there's not a leak, the compressor and condenser can only work so fast, so if you have both front and back coils running and are sitting still, it may not be able to fully reject all the heat from the condenser coil. The AC on my 2022 XLE works much better when I start moving and getting more airflow over the radiator, allowing the coil to reject more of the heat into the surrounding air.

We got a new king foam mattress from https://rvmattress.com/ and it fit perfectly. Pop-up trailers are difficult because you have limited vertical space, most RV mattress shops online target campers where you CAN fit a 8-inch thick mattress. The trick we found is to measure your bed size and then take an inch off each side horizontally to allow clearance for the canvas frame arm to drop down.

Yes, there is, if you've filed an identity theft report with your local law enforcement agency.

https://www.fbi.gov/how-we-can-help-you/more-fbi-services-and-information/freedom-of-information-privacy-act/department-of-justice-fbi-privacy-impact-assessments/ncic-identity-theft

I haul a ~3300lb pop-up with my 2022 Highlander and it does great. If you need electric brakes, you'll need to get a 7-pin harness put in and a controller, but I found a Tekonsah kit that was made for the car and it's a doable DIY if you have the tools and a decent lift to run the wires to the engine bay.

The Highlander also has a very high payload rating comparatively, even with the trailer tongue weight and passengers we still have plenty of payload rating for luggage and gear.

The Highlander is also a great car, it became our road trip vehicle even without the trailer and it drives extremely nicely, it does NOT feel like as big of an SUV as it is.

Take a paint chip and get it color matched. Even if you have the original paint, the paint on the walls will have aged and the can won't match up quite right. Just make sure to get the finish right, so you don't paint eggshell onto satin or vice versa, those will never match up over time.

The emergency brake pin doesn't rely on controller settings. It's a straight connection of the 12V battery to the brake coils, for full on activation. As someone else mentioned, it's likely that the brakes themselves weren't adjusted right.

I left extra space on my first Aquilo Shuttle design, which came in handy. I was able to add Low Density Structure crafting using imported plastic to help feed Aquilo rockets. In theory, I could set up self-sufficient plastic production using coal synthesis followed by coal liquefaction, but importing plastic from Gleba works fine. That and Processing Units from Fulgora since they literally come out of the ground.

Somewhere along the circuit there's something causing either an overcurrent situation (dead short) OR there's something causing a short to ground that's tripping the GFCI protection.

Is the breaker in the house panel marked as being a GFCI or AFCI (or combo) breaker? Outdoor outlets are required to have GFCI protection, which can either be at the breaker panel OR from the first outlet in the circuit. If the circuit breaker isn't a GFCI breaker, you're looking at something that's causing a dead short that trips the overcurrent protection on the house breaker. If the breaker is a GFCI, then something is causing a current leakage to the grounding conductor, which could be as simple as a loose wire connection that's touching something grounded to earth.

There should be more than enough scrap available on the islands accessible to research rail support foundations. It's one of the earlier ones in the Fulgora Technology tree.

Only if it's filtered, and the filter doesn't include the spoilage result. So if the inserter is filtered to nutrients only, and the nutrients in-hand spoil, then it'll immediately drop its load out.

Using filters on your nutrient output also lets you avoid spoilage from the bio chamber from ending up on the belt - have a separate inserter filtered to spoilage that pulls that from the bio chamber.

Well conveniently enough (not cheaply though...), my trailer now has electric brakes. A bit sooner than I planned on, but it was either dump money into the surge brakes or just replace with electric.

The signal light wires should be separate from the 12V+ Line, but they will share the ground connection on the 7-pin connector. You could have a bad frame ground on the car end?

RV-style as in mounted with the extension arms? Or just a bag awning (which will be basically the same except the poles are in a bag instead of integrated)?

What model trailer do you have?

Does your 1210 use surge brakes, or electric? And if it's surge brakes, did you notice a decrease in braking effectiveness with the WDH? I'm looking at WDHs for my Jayco 1206 and 2022 Highlander and the braking has been the biggest possible issue.