u/Magnumduster

This is the Laser variant as evidenced by the "pentastar" logo in the center of the lense assembly

https://preview.redd.it/n1q4fdl9ayth1.jpeg?width=1280&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=72911c83c81c722dd127cb6154155ca5ba2ef361

I've spoken with the lady who ons this car a number of times. She and her husband built it, and since he passed on, she was still bringing the car to show and shine events and other car shows. She will often have a large photo album on display that people can flip through to learn about how it was built. She's really kind an patient with anyone asking questions.

If you have the patience for digging around in a drawer and a few zip lock bags, DM me. I have a number or random through hole components, no SMD stuff that I can think of. I'm in North Central Edmonton.

It's a 1969. Source: I own a '68 Dart. The easiest way to tell if it's a 1968, 1968 or 1969, is by looking at the sidemarker lights. In case of the '67, there aren't any side markers, the '68 has round side markers, like nearly everything in the Dodge family in '68, and the '69 has the inset side markers seen in the picture. The later earlier and later Darts are significantly different than these 3 years.

I'm having the same issue as well, with no resolution.

I believe so

It's definitely a Dodge Raider. You can tell by the font of the " V6" emblem. This is a great example of " badge engineering as the source vehicle is actually a 1st gen Mitsubishi Montero, short wheelbase unit.

If the hose fits over the hard pipe, you can use a good quality foil tape to secure the hose and then clamp over the foil tape and hose. If the hose isnot large enough to fit over the pipe, you can by a short connector that is slightly smaller diameter than the pipe and hose and then both items wil fit over the connector pipe. You will need to use some sheet metal screws to drill through the pipe and connector to securely fasten it. Then cover with a few wraps of foil tape.

I highly recommend Canadian Canine Training. They're professionals who use scientifically proven methods to help people and their dogs. I learned so much about camine behaviour from them. https://canadiancaninetraining.com/

For me every FedEx delivery has been delayed due to them saying they attempted delivery, but no one was home. Every time, I was home and the FedEx truck never even came down my street.

Lee Valley Tools as well: https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/garden/pest-control/insects/67728-the-tick-key

Also, a moment of silence for the Toyota's dead brake lights as well.

As a lifelong auto enthusiast, I find it strange that people think unibody construction is some kind of inferior manufacturing process. Modern vehicles utilize this for construction of most vehicles outside of ones that are intended for towing use. Two things: 1) there are myriad high horsepower vehicles that are of unibody construction and are suited for their power levels. 2) the owner of this car, went to pretty good lengths to make this chassis much stronger as it's orriginal configuration and construction wasn't suited to this much power.

There's a fella on YouTube that has 2JZ swap. It's pretty cool. https://youtu.be/XW3hUX0Akzs?si=jzl8P7n_pTVU08hR

That's great work! Congrats on your clever design.

Most people that care, have had prints that didn't stay stuck to the build plate. These are big capacity printers so the tolerances get a little worse the further out from the center of the bed. I've had 3 blobs of death due to prints come loose from the bed, so I spent some time really dialing in the level on my bed and started tweaking bottom layers and adding brims to almost everything.

My company works with Dental Choice group, so I've visited most of their clinics. Try visiting the Kingsway location. They're on the 2nd floor behind the Tim Horton's near the west side of the mall.

The Barracuda fish medallion in the centre of the rear window lower trim was supposed to be a 1966 only piece as far as I know. This car, as many have said is earlier, making it 1964 or 1965. I saw it in person in the parking lot of the Red Deer convention centre. Someone added 1968 marker lights to the rear quarter panels as well. It has a manual transmission too.

Says the bootlicker

You can reassemble, heat the tip up to 220, carefully melt the plastic around the wires with a torch or heat gun and gently pry the plastic away. I've dealt with this 3 times now and haven't had to replace any parts. Remember, you're just looking to remove enough blob so that the cover fits back on and you get good airflow over the heatsink. Good luck.

If you're near the NE, the new community Health Hub accepts patients in mental health crisis. It's located on the east side of Fort Road at 132 Ave.

Speak to Stefan and his team at Quickfire Mortgage. They should be able to get you something under 4%

I'm not a plumber, but I have had to do many plumbing jobs with supervision by great plumbers at times. That type of valve likely has a packing washer in the top of the housing. The packing washer is likely dry and you may find you can slow the leak down if you clean the valve stem below the handle and down the top of the valve body. Then add a little low solvent lubricant of any kind. After which, you can try slowly rotating the handle out if it's not already all the way out, and then slowly rotate it in a little. This will distort the interior diameter of the packing washer out and then back in and may slow the leak down or stop it completely.

We had a hit and run on our van a couple of winters ago and our insurance company required us to pay the deductible and then they covered repairs and a rental. If you have valid contact information for the other individual, the insurance company will sue them for damages and any injury. Unfortunately, you will be out of pocket for the deductible and time lost. You could file a small claims court claim on your own for the out of pocket expenses.

I recoomend checking your vin on this website: https://www.hyundaiengineinfo.com/