u/MattUDuck

1 post karma · 66 comment karma · joined Oct 2020

MattUDuck

Noctua are the quietest but I don't think they do a 24v one yet, and they're quite expensive. I replaced the psu fan and the mainboard fan on my ender with noctuas, and replaced the hotend fan with a sunon 24v fan. I can't hear it now unless my room is totally silent.

MattUDuck

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MattUDuck

I recommend using marlin(simpler option) or klipper for your firmware. Also don't use creality's slicer, use cura or prusaslicer

MattUDuck

They are called JST connectors iirc

MattUDuck

For PLA or PETG, you'll be fine. My printer is sat right beside my desk in my bedroom. I would recommend putting it elsewhere if you plan to print in more specialised or stronger filaments. Noise may be a concern, depending which printer you go for. Though you can do upgrades to make a printer quieter.

Just realised that's a resin printer, which I would recommend you put somewhere not so close & better ventilated, as I believe the fumes are toxic

MattUDuck

Provide a source if you're going to say something controversial and potentially unsafe.
That said, cookie cutters should be okay as you cut them before you cook them.

MattUDuck

Are you sure it's the switch, not the wiring? Buy a new one? They're fairly cheap I believe

MattUDuck

I know they exist as I have one, but I do not know if they are a good idea or where I got it. Search "stepper motor splitter"

MattUDuck

I know it's not the usual experience, but I couldn't be happier with my ender 3 v2. Apart from mainboard fan dying very quickly, I've had very few issues and nice quality prints. What problems have you had with yours?

MattUDuck

Search for 2 pin jst extension cable

MattUDuck

Try 2, then 1 if that fails? Or buy abl sensor/new bed?

MattUDuck

Not sure if I'm misunderstanding, but can't you just use the infill setting in your slicing software to do this?

MattUDuck

In cura there is a setting (enabled by default) that brings your model to be on the build plate if it is above or below. If you turn this off you can simply lower the model by the amount you want to lose, and it will only print what is left above the build plate.

MattUDuck

I've achieved similar results as this using a plugin for blender called BlenderGIS(I believe there's a few others too), that allow you to import Google maps data, which you can then clean up and export as an STL

MattUDuck

You could be levelling too far away, it could be an uneven bed or could be dirty, could be a damaged nozzle also. If you had pics might be easier to narrow down

MattUDuck

Not an expert on klipper but looking into it currently, I believe you can run it from your PC or a laptop on a virtual machine, that may help until pi's are more available

MattUDuck

I have replaced the PSU and main board fan on my ender 3 v2 with a noctua and a sunon fan respectively, and I'm happy with the volume & performance currently without going through the hassle to change the hotend fans. To use noctua fans for the main board & hotend fans you would need to use a buck (voltage) converter, so I personally suggest going for a different brand that sells the correct voltage fans(noctua doesn't sell 24V) Sunon fans are powerful and still almost as quiet as Noctua, while being a little better performance wise iirc. If you do go for a noctua for the psu, make sure to measure and make sure it will fit, or print a new PSU enclosure using PETG or any other somewhat temperature resistant filament, as pla is likely to deform. In terms of performance, I measured the temperature inside of both before and after the replacements, and they had both dropped by around 5 degrees. And I feel both are a hell of a lot less likely to give out on me, like my main board fan did(after a month, lol)

MattUDuck

Look into the BlenderGIS plugin

MattUDuck

Hero me gen 5, its a hotend/cooling duct mod iirc. I think it's on thingiverse

MattUDuck

Fyi OP, the Ender 3 v2 does not have any of those issues, in fact I've had barely any issues with mine at all except the stock firmware being ass. That said, apparently their build quality does vary a lot. I may just be lucky. The aquila does look like a good printer, also.

MattUDuck

I covered one side of my glass bed with kapton tape (cheaper than buying another bed), and that worked great for me

MattUDuck

JEI, WAILA, Useful backpacks, immersive portals, storage drawers, tinker's construct, and all 4 of Pam's food mods. Will add a bigger list when I'm back at my pc

MattUDuck

You could play classic creative, and INDEV(iirc), which was the alpha for survival, in browser. Once infinite maps and full survival were added it changed to a download

MattUDuck

Can you show the code that you're trying?

MattUDuck

Fair enough mate, without any explanation I thought you meant "you need this asset", and was worried OP could take it the same.

The cool thing about this game engine is you can do a lot with it without the need to code.
Agreed, visual scripting is definitely a lot more accessible and you can make a game without writing a single line of code.
A free alternative is Bolt, which was recently bought by Unity.