u/Qjeezy

This is what I was going to suggest as well. Using that second nozzle for support materials just brings that quality aspect up a few notches. My vote is H2D.

If you’re using a single or dual nozzle printer, sure. Those aren’t the target printers for these types of prints though.

Hands down thee best beginner printer there is.

https://preview.redd.it/0gwvk4hdepxh1.jpeg?width=8064&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2859dddc4fab7847d5a1c6cac96f45568494be5e

Totally worth it. You’ll need to vent it outdoors with an inline duct fan though, you can’t just put the printer in there and go. It would get too hot in the enclosure.

I tried directly hooking up to the printer and venting outdoors before I got the enclosure, but I could still smell the fumes. This was the only way I could provide 100% mitigation.

I would advise to do your best to dry it and keep it dry. It is 80-90% pet/petg.

The white letters looking fine while the blue has multiple issues, my best guess would be the blue filament is the issue. Either the filament itself has an issue or there was an issue with how the machine did the auto flow dynamics calibration.

Try a different filament first to see if the issue clears up. If it does then you know where to look.

Yes, you can set it up exactly as you have pictured. That’s how I have mine setup.

To tell the printer you’re using the tpu assist, just use the load function on the screen for the external spool and use the tpu assist to load the filament when the screen prompts for the loading.

G10

It’s pinned to the community highlights at the top of the sub.

It also already has hardened steel hot ends. As for the ams 2 pro, the feeder funnels have ceramic inlets so no need to worry about those either. The only thing that may show accelerated wear from printing GITD filament is the tubes.

Please head on over to the Black Friday megathread for discussion. Good quality discussions over there may be rewarding ;)

There was a cool plate that was never officially released but some testers out there got some. It was after they discontinued the original cool/engineering plate and before they released the supertack. I almost thought this was that but after a second glance this does look like an aftermarket plate.

I think, for now at least, this statement answers your main question. You want a tinker printer.

This is what I was going to ask as well. Looks like the filament could use some more drying

Ahh, well that’s good!

Are you straight up returning it? Or doing a replacement? Only reason I ask is because if you do the advanced replacement, you can use the packaging from the new one to send the old one back.

No problem. Valid question though considering the failure. Has it passed since then?

Just to run through some simple things, is the protective cover removed from the vision encoder plate? Is the toolhead camera clean? Lastly, if there’s any ambient lighting in the room shining into the printer, there’s potential for that to throw off the reading.

I agree with this. Start at 400 and don’t take less than 300. Anywhere in between is fair IMO.

It’s never caused any issues for me. If you’re not using excessive force, the plate should land where it needs to be.

This is awesome! Congrats on the success!

I agree, which is why it’s important to choose the appropriate vent setup for the application. A simple louver and screen vent that’s always open in conjunction with a manual valve, such as a butterfly valve, mitigates the issue of the vent needing higher cfm to open. It doesn’t look like OP is planning on venting outdoors though considering the huge carbon canister. I could be wrong though.

I also agree with dragging down the temp of the printers enclosure if hooked up to it directly. I personally have my high temp printers in enclosures for this very reason.

We’re on the same page and I agree with you, I just didn’t want to assume what OP’s goals were or what materials they will be printing. For low temp and non toxic filaments, this setup will work great. For high temp and toxic filaments, it’s not the best setup.

Most of the air is going to be entering the printer through the electronics vent and purge chute when the exhaust fan is on. Path of least resistance. It may also enter the left and right aux fan intakes under the printer, along with any other gaps and cracks around the printer. You could try a quick smoke test at those locations to see if it’s pulling air in. Or do a smoke test inside the chamber and check those points for outward leakage.

I bought one of those handheld fog machines to test this same thing.

The fan can be adjusted and its lowest setting moves approximately 20-25cfm with zero restriction. With the x2d’s filter and the huge carbon filter on the exhaust it’s likely to be at least half of that. The lowest setting might not even be enough to extract any air out of the chamber due to the filter restrictions.

To put it into perspective, that’s the equivalent of the oem exhaust fan, without the filter restriction, running around 20%. Even less, maybe 10%, with the filter restriction.

These fans are great because they give you access to big air and small air.

Here ya go. https://makerworld.com/models/2730659?appSharePlatform=copy

It will give you 2 inputs instead of 1