u/RizlaWrappa

I took some time to evaluate my driving over the past couple of days and I've since noticed that I sometimes do double lane change. It's something that I'm more conscious of now and will stop.

I don't speed, I need a clean driving record for my job and gas is too expensive for any unnecessary acceleration. In this clip I was under the posted limit of 70MPH due to the traffic buildup.

My attention also lapsed due to the subject of the video thus leading to the tailgating you noticed.

As mentioned I'm more conscious of these things and my driving habits will adjust

You'd probably need to download the video in order to zoom in, look for their taillights on the right.

https://reddit.com/link/19rqhqhuh7278/video/u4duxrb0t0yh1/player

1.8mil just casually cutting up

This is what will eventually happen. The newest tension struts I've been installing lately G05,6,7 & G70 are no longer fitted with hydro-bearings. Guess BMW is trying to avoid another class-action.

As other's have stated, don't wait until it ruptures, but also, you don't need to go in tomorrow to have them replaced.

https://preview.redd.it/c80wuaat3cxh1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6184022e37140d430853a429d38c8439d98bd02a

Don't start that car without grounding that point correctly, I've seen DME's burn up because of this.

Mine got to just over 120k before I was T-Boned and it was totalled due to frame damage. I know that car would be around for 300k+ miles. Enjoy yours!

https://www.grperformanceparts.com/whiteline-camber-bolt-set-for-the-gr-corolla-2023/

I agree with you, it's BS.

I've gotten only 2 covered by warranty in very low mileage LCI G20's.

The SIB/Advanced Info came out shortly thereafter which practically stated we should just send the quote to the customer for it's replacement. It's caused by too much pressure being exerted on the control.

The glass controls don't break though, I wonder why...

This happens all the time. They are currently working on a repair kit.

I've fixed a few that have come in broken just because I know warranty won't cover it. A very light application of super glue. It'll hold as long as the behavior that broke it in the first place isn't repeated. Don't use too much glue, overspill will dry solid white and look messy

How does one go about getting a pair of these? (Recaro CS). I'm guessing they have both Driver's and Passengers sides? Either way, the CS is the one I vote for

I'm happy they admitted their shortcomings and took steps to correct some

That shouldn't have been sold in that condition to begin with. I know first hand for CPO BMW's, the tires are measured at the wear bars, which give a lower tread depth reading than reading from in the base of the groove - which almost always leads to the car having all 4 tires replaced and an alignment done before being listed for sale.

Likewise, the minimum spec measurement for brakes are also different than if you were to take your already owned vehicle to get an MPI done.

CPO techs where I work hardly ever have a pay period less than 90hrs.

This indeed sounds/looks like a shortfall in their QC department (or person). I'll be looking out for the update and sound clips. Is your exhaust system stock otherwise?

I vaguely remember some of their install videos or instructions saying one of the gaskets were to be reused from OEM to their midpipe. Or was it the spring bolts?

I also read the reviews and hesitated on purchasing.

Maybe try it with the OEM donut if you aren't able to force the supplied donut in if you have to get the car drivable for the week.

Do let us know what they say in the reply email

2 days ago I installed the Shifter Linkage, Spherical Bushings, Short-shifter, and the Deadweight from Racer - X. I have the setting for the short shifter right at the 2.5 setting and the overall shifting experience is drastically different.

I should've done this upgrade sooner. I'm gonna get the 80A pitch mount bushing after a few weeks of driving the car as is, so I'll have a good comparison of what changes occur between the 70A and 80.

https://preview.redd.it/g8gveowquzdh1.jpeg?width=2252&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=ae7e37168fef8d92dd99977ca6cb384bb28dae93

What wing is that?

I read all the forum posts about odd sounds from this car and decided I'd take it all in stride, then after the leak I became paranoid trying to remember if those sounds were always there or not.

I've now decided to just drive the car and do my maintenance as required.

Are you still running your stock exhaust? I've done the center valve delete mod but I want more. I want the single exit offered by RK Titanium. I always liked the single giant muffler cannon look of JDM cars

I will have to take a look at the bushings before ordering. I'll have a look at both the Forge and Racer X shifters.

I'm definitely going to get those from Racer X. What are your lists of pros and cons with them?

When I first installed the 70A I regretted it, when in traffic trying to inch forward the new NVH made me think I was about to stall every time. Dashboard, seats, the shifter itself would vibrate like crazy. But, as it got broken in more after about 200 miles it dampened down a lot. Under 5mph is where I have the most NVH but I've gotten accustomed to it now. Moving off from a stop light I get it to 15mph in 1st and can quckily slide into 2nd like butter, I've tested different speeds but found this to be most consistent. With the 60A I'd have to wait for the RPMs to drop between the 1-2 shift or it would be the harshest engament, felt like the clutch pedal was being kicked back up against my foot. I could not shift quickly moving off from a stop light at all. I'm unsure how much of this, if any, may be related to the low transmission fluid though. I also was still learning the car and manual transmission overall.

When installing the 70A is when I found the leak, and the car went to the dealer a week afterwards.

With increased NVH there are/were more rattles present. In my driver's door panel, turned out to be a harness hitting plastic that I wrapped in felt tape, the foam insert in the trunk floor began rattling like crazy also, wrapped the edges in felt tape as well and no longer present.

I've noticed sometimes my 3rd gear sounds like it's straight cut - with that higher pitched whine. Not to say it's related to the pitch mounts. Have you experienced this? I think I'm going to change the trans oil as I'm now nearing 20k on the odometer. I just had the transfer case and rear differential serviced under the ToyoCare maintenance program, transmission fluid exchange wasn't covered.

This week I got Carista and disabled the added engine sound in sport and the ANC or ASC. W.E it is. I hear more road noise now, but also more engine sounds.

I do, I'm running Delta X with the 70A bushing and I'm very happy with it. I'm considering getting the 80A just to see if it's better. I've never experienced a stock pitch mount, the previous owner had the Racer X version installed with the 60A. I didn't know this until I began tearing it apart to put the Delta X in.

I'm looking at Racer X's offerings for shifter linkages and short shifters etc next

I also do this. I've also found shifting from 1-2 at 15mph while I'm in traffic allows for the smoothest transition, atleast in my vehicle particularly.

I got mine used with 4800 miles, first manual car too. Thought it was just learning curve with how I'd stall moving off from a stop or how rough the 1-2 shift would be.

Found out the seal around where the shifter cables enter the transmission was leaking, it was very low on fluid and the hill start assist was also disabled or wouldn't work properly.

I only found this out after 2 months of finally being able to master not stalling, it's been fixed since December of last yr and I've had to learn how to drive all over again but, it was much much easier this time around. Haven't stalled since

Do you think this setup would work without rubbing at the stock ride height? I'd like the meatier tires also but don't want to screw around with suspension stuff just yet.

Thanks for your reply, I still haven't fixed this issue, I've just been holding the nozzle at an angle so I can see when the gas is about to back flow out of the filler neck then I'll modulate the speed to prevent the auto shut off of the nozzle. Your reply has made me realize I've been doing this for around 2 years now lol. I also drive a lot, around 500 miles a week for my work commute so I frequent the gas station. I do have a recall for software updates for the car so I'll have them check it out when I take it to the dealer for that, I got a service contract from an aftermarket company when I bought the car and it claims to cover everything other than maintenance items so we'll see how that goes.

I've seen this issue before, verified it was a faulty control unit for the cameras - replaced the UCAP and reverse camera. When I scanned the car there were hardware faults present for said camera and communication faults for the UCAP. Them saying there is nothing wrong is odd, keep taking it back to them until they figure it, they should've already opened a case with the engineer's if they didn't know how to fix. For the slow remote start and GPS issues I've replaced the TCB in the past, they are a known issue straight from factory, some just die randomly. I've seen water ingress issues from the rear antenna that gets into the TCB that sits under the antenna. Slow shifting - the vehicle may just need to have the Transmission reprogrammed. There are recalls for the mechatronics on a small number of new transmissions as well, either reprogramming or full replacement. Either way, take it back to dealer.

The dealer I work at is $349