u/SomeCallMeMrBean

As I read it, for red you should us F2.8 so that corresponds with the weaker flash than blue at F5.6 or orange at F11.

Nice design solution. I built a pinhole camera using 4×5 standard filmholders but that still limits the amount of sheets I can bring along. In your camera you could carry a whole pack of paper if you would like to do so.

With my B&W laserprinter I had similar with printing on overheadsheets and I also used this method for a while but I used body oil from the discount store nearby. Then I tried a piece of vellum paper that we had laying around and for me that worked very nice in my printer and is also more translucent than the oiled paper so that might also be worth while to try if you can get your hands on it.

This appears to be fungus and I see some mold on the folding mechanism as well so that also needs ro be cleaned to prevent further spreading. It looks doable but the cost of having it repaired professionally might exceed buying a clean camera.

I love the idea of the film chambers, no need to carry film holders but only a changing bag.

Not enough developer or fixer in the container so the upper edge is in a foamy situation. I had this same issue when developing 120 film the first time in my Paterson tank an I have used 600ml for 120 film ever since.

I tried the same, on overhead sheets but the ink was too vulnerable and I got stripes from the rollers of my printer. For the prints I sent you, I printed the negatives on vellum paper which works much better for me.

Nice! Do you also use printed negatives?

Glad you like them and that you received them in good order!

I found the answer, after previous comment that has been deleted for whatever reason. I now use this pattern: $(FILE.FOLDER)/darktable_exported/$(FILE.NAME) and it works for me. Thanks for the comment and reminding me that the question was still up..

A very good case for developing and scanning B&W film yourself. 5 to 10 rolls a month is not too much a workload I suppose, and you regain full control. The return on investment will come very fast at these rates.

That's great, problem solved then!

The longer flange distance of the Nikon F mount makes adapting harder for other type of lens mounts.

For your workflow I would look into tethered shooting, via USB. I use my Nikon D3300 via USB with DigiCamControl so I can adjust shuttertime remotely. The images are transferred to my computer directly after shooting. It also reduces bounce because you don't need to touch the shutter release button on the camera. You can also assign hotkeys to actions, I use my spacebar to trigger the shutter.

Looks nice! WhichUV LED strips did you use?

look at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66s-tsUjstQ

Sent to u/splitty, u/additional-duck-6683 and another non-u/ user. Can't edit the typo on the post unfortunately.

real Cocteau Twins revival lately..

Exciting!

You could try a splash of vinegar in your first washing water and also wash even more than you did. For me that was what helped a bit before changing chemicals. I read that prewashing the paper with a light acidic waterbath and dry before coating could also be helpful but I never tried that.

I had the same issue and switched to other chemicals from a known brand. That made a huge difference.

Nice contact printing frame!

The VU does have showers, just for that purpose.