u/TheRealGee3

ToffeeConda (RBE Pastel)👍

https://preview.redd.it/9vubhvk9ntvh1.jpeg?width=2664&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e2a4c3e8f332c59ae1c8253c2b35848b4c00101d

Glad to hear it!👏👍

Was he/she eating from tongs or being drop fed by the breeder/supplier? Usually whatever they were doing will continue to work.

How long did you let him/her settle in the new home before offering food, and have you refrained from handling( stress from the new environment and smells can affect feeding)?

For a 5 month old, I would offer food that is 10-15% of his/her body weight once every 5 days. If they refuse, wait until the next scheduled day to offer again.

Make sure your husbandry is on point(cage clutter, hides, temps, no external stressors like pets/kids). If everything looks good, and they stiil aren't eating, try to drop feed overnight: buy/get a small section of plastic tube and place in the enclosure. Place a thawed and warmed feeder into 1 end ( head facing out) just before you go to bed/lights out in the enclosure. Remove in the morning if still there.

A healthy snake WANTS to eat.🤞

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You aren't measuring the basking spot temp, you're measuring the air temp if it's just hanging there. Secure the end of the probe on the basking rock and verify the accuracy of the thermostat with an infrared heat gun.

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Stop feeding them. Allow 2 weeks for their gut to clear(continue offering water). 3rd week - turn of all heat sources and allow the enclosure to come to ambient (68 for my house in winter). Week 4 - I put them in their brumation box(moistened coco coir, several inches deep) and move to my unheated basement. Week 5 - into a small beverage refrigerator at 62; lower temp 1 degree per day until 55 is reached.

8 weeks in brumation. I inspect them visually once per week. If they aren't buried, you can offer a small water dish to see if are thirsty( don't leave it in the tub).

Waking up - Raise the temp 1 degree per day for 1 week. Transfer to their enclosure for a week without external heating (regular water). Heat on for a week, then offer food(3 weeks after starting "wake up"). If you want to breed, introduce pairs 2-3 days after 2nd post-brumation meal.

I do not believe it is scale rot.

I see no other marks/issues with other parts of her body. Scale rot tends to attack the ventral scales that have more contact with the moist/humid environment. Additionally, it tends to manifest initially on the margins/edges of scales( thinner there, and overlap with other scales, keeping the area moist).

Is she in a Bioactive, and does she burrow a lot? It looks like an abrasion that is being aggravated by continued digging. As suggested, try cleaning with warm water on a cotton swab; then add a drop or two of betadine to 10ml of water and apply to the area(try not to press/squeeze any water out of the swab, avoid it in her mouth/eyes.) Repeat once per day for 7 days. If it is not looking better/getting smaller....Vet.

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🤔😲😆😂

Drain them, then fry them in a non-stick pan with a little oil. Eat with some rice/couscous and a little hot sauce.

I bought several tins to bait a trap for raccoons that were in my corn.....using up the leftovers was 'interesting'.

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You did not "break" any brumation. I regularly dig my brumating snakes up to inspect and offer water. If the conditions are conducive, he will continue 'sleeping'.

He is dramatically under weight for 13 months old, but is not thin/unhealthy looking. I have 4 month old hatchlings that weigh more. Offer feeders that are 10-15% of his body weight every 5 days for the next 10-12 months. Weigh him once per month to monitor his general health and upsize food as necessary. A healthy snake WANTS to eat.

If you give him 12+ hours of light (from any source) and your ambient temperature is around 22 degrees, he should not brumate/stop feeding.

Whoops 😲

Walter McCarty #41 Mark Pope #40 Tony Delk #00

1996 Championship Team members.

Not sure if it was a collectable, but having/knowing the Signatures should help you in finding a value.

I've been using the Pet's Pick Aspen from Tractor Supply for a few years now.

Average amount of dust/fines. Occasional large chunk/piece of wood. Random 'stringy' bit that isn't a flake. Great value for the price IMO, and better than some stuff I tried from Chewy once.

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Dude, based on the tail.

Probably 10-12 months old if he has been eating regularly.

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How long do you think 80(5) will last you?

We separated the cloves and froze them last year. Chopped up any with bad spots, or that were on the small side then froze them in small ice cube trays. 25 heads lasted about 6 months.😥

This will be the most garlic I've produced over 3 years, so I'll be happy. But yeah.....more would be better.👍

I don't know about die, but I'd give up a body part for him to get double digit wins this tourney( nothing major.....maybe a toe or something)😉

Seriously though, glad he made it back, and firmly hoping he reopens Miyagino stable in the near future.🤞

Didn't know.

Have used it with other snakes/reptiles without issues.

Sorry for the incorrect info, deleted my post to avoid sharing bad info.

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Cool Noodle 🤩

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Girl-i-o ♀️ from what I can see.

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They really start to fill out after the first year, and get closer to 200 by the end of the second.

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Gorgeous Super Arctic 🤩🤩

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I love Super Arctics 🤩

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At minimum you want: 2 hides ( one cool side, one warm), water bowl, substrate deep enough for him to be completely covered by and tunnel in, lots of clutter( branches, leaves, rocks, plants). If you look down from the top of the cage and can see the substrate anywhere except the basking area, add more clutter.

Snakes feel vulnerable in the open, hence him 'freezing' at times. As far as glass surfing; snakes do it occasionally as they explore. If your enclosure is large enough, and has enough enrichment/clutter the frequency should decrease.

Photo of your current enclosure would help.

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You would think so, as having full saddles would allow for more uniform spots; however.....I don't know how/when the Morph originated. Perhaps it was just a 'low expression Conda' ( since Conda reduces dorsal spots) and someone said, "Cool, I've discovered a new Morph!" That said, yours could just be low expression Conda as well.

As far as future breeding: Lemon Ghost is also a polygenic, line bred trait( Extreme Red, Pink Pastel, and Purple Line are as well). Pairing 2 Lemon Ghost animals doesn't necessarily guarantee Lemon Ghost offspring. Over time people have selectively bred animals with a lot of Yellow. Your baby is not particularly yellow now(compared to others) but may grow into it.

I avoid Polygenic Traits for this reason. Single gene traits are easier to predict.

In the end, get animals that you find attractive or interesting. You will never "out breed" people who are already well established. Additionally, the market will continue to trend down in price, and be more saturated with "designer morphs" over the 3 years it will take for your animals to reach breeding age.

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Deep breath, and go for it. Hognose snakes biting as a defense mechanism is EXTREMELY rare. The hissing, hooding up, and bluff striking are their go to actions. If you back away, or stop you are basically reinforcing the behavior ( big ape leave when hiss).

Just pick him up. Hold him gently but firmly so he doesn't get dropped if he makes a sudden movement. Go sit in a chair or on the couch, and let him crawl through/around your hands. Make sure you always have him supported, and always have both hands on him, or ready to grab/lift him if necessary. Wait until he stops hissing, etc before returning him to his enclosure. Do this twice a week, but not the day before or after feeding.

Best of luck!🤞

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