u/X-Frame

I looked back - I purchased a 14” M1 Pro in January 2022 with 16 GB RAM, 1 TB SSD and I believe at the time their mid-tier option for the M1 Pro (10-Core CPU and 16-Core GPU). For $2,499.00.

The base option for this M1 Pro is the same (more core CPU) but 24 GB RAM for a better screen as well for $400 more.

I can get $690 for trade in from my 2021 M1 Pro. It doesn’t seem that bad to me compared to what I paid 4 years ago - unless I am missing anything?

I had how my MBP screen has blooming watching any HDR content at night.

Thank you! And actually, you were correct -- the set I have now are the replacements I got in 2019 and 2021. One set I got at 22,500 miles (Sept 2019) and then next at 30,225 miles (April 2021).

The first set has about 18,300 miles on them, and second set has 10,500 miles, but they're 6-7 years old.

Thank you for the response! I don’t drive in actual snow often unless I am stuck in it so at minimum assumed regular all-season tires would be sufficient versus true winter tires. As the CX5 is AWD I’ve always found it quite good in the snow worst case although that is coming from a Civic and Neon SRT4 previously.

The shop failed me they said 2 of the tires are actually too low and the other 2 technically passable but wouldn’t likely last the next year. I ordered a tire tread gauge for tomorrow so I can confirm. They didn’t specify rot or cracks although I see some.

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Hi! Yes, it was the same shop that did my inspection and oil change yesterday that told me I didn't pass inspection. And yes I agree that my alarm bells went off a bit when I was not only hit with my first inspection fail but also being recommended all new tires and all new brakes at the same time.

EDIT: Also thank you for explaining the price difference between Rock Auto and what these shops get theirs for. It makes sense -- they did tell me they can get parts same day or at most 1 day later. Therefore my assumption that they're marking up the pads and rotors 3-4x may not be accurate then.

Hello! Thank you very much for posing the questions -- I fully intend on compiling a bunch of questions for the shop when they reopen Monday.

I'll flip my responses:

1. This is the 2nd time I've been to this place and they're right in town. They helped me with my car when it flooded from a blocked sunroof drain 2 months ago and they were exceptional in working on the car quickly, drying everything, and putting the interior back together with no damage (as of now).

2. They told me I failed inspection because of both the brakes and rotors but I did not get specifics. When I ask them to clarify, I ask them what my pads measured at? And what about the rotors, how would those fail inspection unless they just recommend doing both together?

The brakes on my car have giving me issues since I bought it and yes they've been replaced a few times already - 3 times for the rear and 1 for the front.

In 2018, 2 years after buying the car the shop I had been going to for years told me my rear brakes were rusted and starting to "delaminate". Had the rear pads and rotors replaced 6 months later for $390.00 total and at that time they told me my fronts were 75% worn.

6 months after that I had the rears replaced completely for free under warranty as they were already almost worn and shop determined something with my E-brake was affecting the brakes not working correctly. Around the same time had my front brakes replaced. Then 1 year later had the shop replace my rear brakes AGAIN for free under warranty. Apparently looking on here it's no secret Mazda OEM brakes are crap but I should had asked what brand the shop used for the replacements. This was all probably around 20K miles.

I'd love to be able to learn one day, although the urgency right now is passing inspection before the end of the month. Eventually I'd like to build up a garage with all the necessary parts for car and home repairs!

Hi, yes the same shop that did my inspection and oil change yesterday. And absolutely going to get a few more quotes from other places I've been to.

Agree 100%. I am older than when I first started playing, and did not have the time or energy to engage in the ever-churning wheel of progression. Now that it had "ended", I had essentially signed on daily since the MoT update to catch up after Final Shape ended and do things I had been putting off for years prior because it was fun and rewarding and my time felt appreciated, with lots of build variety and things to do across the whole game.

I don’t know if it’s anecdotal but when I get stuck in an infinite warp tunnel I seem to have a high success rate to unfreeze by going into the menu to initiate a Quit Game, but not actually confirming the Quit. When I do that, I almost always magically spawn.

He sold it 2 maybe 3 weeks ago, and I tried to stock up as best I could with whatever rolls were decent. It seems it's 50/50 but unfortunately it's just been bad luck the last couple weeks.

Thank you! And to confirm this is overall “better” than say Swordmaster for the Resist x4 and exhaust with Lament or Praxic?

What makes you immortal using Wolfsbane if I might ask? Returning player that actually just got the weapon so this is interesting to hear. I am a Titan too btw if that makes a difference.

Can anyone say if he's selling Swordmaster Armor again?

Question - what does farming Equilibrium have to do with the Swordmaster armor? Is that where it drops?

For Fans Of

Any chance I could take you up on this one day if we’re both on? Tried this a few times Fireteam Finder with no luck.

To confirm, you mean you simply just removed the Battlefield Promotion Challenge from the modifiers and kept everything else the same?

If I removed ALL the challenge modifiers it still shows S rank, is that not preferred or does that require more precision in order to get S?

I can confirm that I did it once on Normal and got the gun and Destabilizing Rounds in the first try. Assumed I was very lucky.

I love it! Perhaps off topic but how do you enjoy using your PC at your TV theater and on the couch? I assume a portal mouse and keyboard?

“That’s not even a real number.”

Thank you very much for your help! Yes it’s a lease and only a year and half old, will try for the dealership warranty angle first!

We did bring to a dealership first btw and told them about this but they likely did nothing outside of inspect visually without taking the door off. At the time it wasn’t sticking unfortunately. Will try another dealer next time.

Thank you for helping! Yes, can manually press it down and it doesn’t get stuck all the time, it can be like 50/50 each time opening it all the way.

It does not seem the interior handle affects the door handle, at least when it is stuck in the open position. Is there any other tests I can run to rule out other issues?

If you anticipate it is something related to the interior return spring, I assume this is a dealer task where the entire interior of the door needs to be taken off to access and assess? And this isn’t any potential warranty related issue correct? Wear and tear? Thank you!