u/ZanyDroid

Thanks.

Yes, they flagged that an upgrade was needed, ghosted me for a couple months. Then one day we got a generic notice (not via the interconnection office) that construction was happening... and like the day after construction the interconnections folks finally sent me an update.

:shrug:

Hmm, for 240V circuits like this & microinverter strings, on a residence... I use B/B and r/R to distinguish circuits (one black one red) in the same box & conduit.

I figure whoever opens it up & tries to change it, has understanding the color coding as a pre-req anyway for knowing what they're doing.

For stuff like neutral, EGC vs phase or DC+/DC- I'll respect avoiding the reserved White and Green colors.

This may be a religious war.

Ngl it looked like trolling/primes reader to react viscerally. I would honestly consider replacing the photo with a photo touched one.

I concur with putting strain relief back on when the torque is so low

Red is only if phase tracking is important. They are symmetric in this circuit. And it is probably a split phase house. So personally I don’t do it

It’s allowed in newer NEC (2026) with more restrictive rules

Also why not just install EVEMS, that’s easier and more reliable than 220.87

Also , the quality of this discussion thread sort of underscores why I use my local (San Francisco area) electrification forum/mailing list, diychatroom, and diysolarforum for doy electric help … and try not to see anything from here…

EDIT: for Reddit [r/evcharging](r/evcharging) is ideal for EV, [r/askanelectrician](r/askanelectrician) is better policed than this one against bad quality info/discussion

This is the type I have from Amazon (kind of does a square ratcheted rotation and crunch) for doing square ferrules (but not this brand)

Were you talking about a different type of crimper?

Which crimper do you use?

Google for ye “NEMA TO HARDWIRED
CONVERSION GUIDE” pdf. I skimmed the steps and it makes no mention of ferrules

I season my skillet and not my beef

Structural: I was referring to your questions on the psi and whatnot of the array.

From what I remember of northern forum members on the other places, the folks really chasing production put them vertical (which doesn’t have standard engineering last I checked), with some having them on custom mounts so they can be angled after winter. That keeps the snow off and also collects more when the sun is super south

I’m sure someone has done the math already on what snow cover does

You’re innumerate (mathing the costs) and dehumanizing

Carniceria? Theres should be one every 10 min

Ouch

Is there a transit or Caltrain ombudsman you can complain at?

Maybe your city or county’s rep on the board

Ok thanks for the information. Sounds like you’re better at hiring than I am

FWIW I was using experience from quoting contractor jobs. Electrician, solar, etc

We can leave it at that.

Probably more of a [r/solar](r/solar) and diysolarforum question

There’s a lot of people with northern experience. Also all you need to give them is the PVwatts inputs and your load calculations for HP load

Even better fast fail: punch your parameters into PvWatts and you can see what your best case output is at your high latitude. With no snow cover. You can do this with your own keyboard and no need to wait for help. It’s probably dire enough to dissuade you from this line of thinking

FWIW, I’m in California , with lower heating load, and my solar is DIY so way cheaper than your solar. And I’m not planning for self sufficiency on power for heating

Your only compensating grace would be a larger house. But you’re still using roof racking

The engineering load calculations are supposed to be guarded by your AHJ. Do you trust them on plan review?

That makes sense. What's the advantages of using voltage in one direction and current in the other? Something like not needing to flip the drivers on each side to a passive mode, like you would with a scheme requiring drivers with a Hi-Z mode?

Are you beholden to this charger/rectifier or are you willing to dive into the world of the ones controllable via modbus?

There’s some THICC threads on the like on diysolarforum and probably endless sphere

Amen

Also I’m disappointed that live action movies are graded for theater delivery and not delivery on OLED

Animation grading pops a lot more

Honestly this subreddit is insufferable with the pixel peeping and overblown misunderstanding of the LG firmware’s network probing behavior and I’m on the verge of muting it.

I doubt the installers are going to know how to do low voltage cable fishing, or come with the tools for it. It would require drywall saw (or rotozip/osc tool), know how to detect mid wall blocking, etc

They are also going to be scheduled by the logistics company for a set number of installs on their route

I think the flush mount is designed for 2 minimally competent adults to latch on/off. Haven’t looked at it lately though.

The head scratcher for me is how a current-based signaling scheme can even work with Ts. Wouldn’t that definitionally mean the current gets split?

No worries

I don’t know if the heirloom quality woks cook better or not, they sure look cool (although, I’d rather have a random artisan in China hammer my wok than an American, feels more authentic ). If they ever show up in a thrift shop that’s an instant buy for me

The clad woks are a pretty cool advance esp on induction, I own the large Strata wok (made in a modern factory in China, not by a village artisan). Better heat distribution at the same weight, since aluminum is both better conducting than carbon steel and lighter.

You should cross copy some of the details over here then

This is a more electronics / electrical engineering focused subreddit yet your specs are barely covering PHY level