u/Zemfire

My first idea was to use a beefy charger from a gaming laptop (just like Shrike) but they cost quite much compared to a 24V LED PSU (220AC-24DC) and a C14 plug. And the downsides (at least for me) didn't work well:
1) Most of them are GIANT and don't really fit into 1U space. It's a minirack after all, so space is at a premium. I don't really want to have it outside the rack since the whole point of the project was to minimize having psus outside the minirack (even if attached) and make the overall footprint smaller and it's much easier to transport like that. I'd added the pic from my last place where you can see I had to mount a Shuko plug PDU outside the volume of the rack which i HATED and it caused a lot of aesthetic an practical issues
2) Heat. Even on the outside under load they become a little too toasty for my liking and a sealed case doesn't really allow to cool it. So either I would have to crack it open (Which pretty much turns it into those 24 PSUs from Aliexpress) or just buy a dedicated PSU..

https://preview.redd.it/qm2hl6714cyh1.jpeg?width=1080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=2d8d2a33342afdde915786cc4d443cb847382bf2

I was initially planning to add UPS here but thought it'll be too much for the first time since it's the first project the utilizes mains voltage.
In my mind a switching board (like YX-X804) for switching from mains/battery and some BMS 7S board and 18650 7S pack could be sufficient for safely turning off the rack, but couldn't find the BMS on local marketplaces so i ditched it for better times. And I had an issue how to implement NUT capability, since existing projects i found utilize either Raspberry Pi's or just act as a relay for NUTs in existing UPSes.
In theory, the UPS itself can be an additional 1U module for the PDU itself, so it'll be easily mounted and/or removed for maintenance/replacement

Leave it for a day, come back and do all the routine stuff, calibrating, cleaning the build plate, using adhesion spray/glue, setting the speed to a default 60mm/s
If you use PETG, dry it, if you use PLA- same. Sometimes patience is the key when it comes to E3S1.

Slicers have an option to set an offset. Might have used it before switching to klipper and forgot to zero it out?

It's still will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer, so I'd recommend testing on small print in order to find out what's your best values are.

Cause my PETG settings are 3mm 30mm/s 30mm/s and it works just fine.

Also, Id highly suggest to dry your PETG before printing since water absorption can cause stringing as well.

Konnichiwa. As far as I remember, when I had E3S1 with stock firmware, the printer used a 0-255 range for it's range, so moving from, for example, 40 to 80 won't do much.

Dbrand can

Oooh. That's interesting. Dropped stock core voltage down to .96 Works kinda stable, but having 81C is still concerning for me. At least it's not going that quickly go throttling. Thanks for the advice!

Aren't HQ models locked? Clean as from factory, that's why I even bother with going extreme

Looks like it when I disassembled it.

No IHS on this model, so it's a direct contact.

https://youtu.be/aGq8uJSco1o

Not a video that you would call a documentary. Proper documentaries of RU drift are done by zaRRubin.