u/_churnd

Go to the range. Get the largest bucket they have. Hit at least half of it practicing shots 100 yards & in. Pick a spot to aim at & just keep hitting balls at it until you're consistently getting it within 10-15ft. This will build your muscle memory, so when you're on the course, that muscle memory will kick in. Do the same thing around the practice short game area for short chips around the green. Build up that muscle memory. It's the best thing you can do. That's why pros practice so much, so they can be in a state where they're not even thinking about how to hit the shot while they're playing, they just do it.

Of course, there's technique as well, and the better your technique, the better your results will be.

A lot of people saying don't worry & don't overthink it, but I'm wondering if this is the landscape young professionals face these days in this economy with having to set themselves apart & it being incredibly difficult to do so.

In my experience, a good SRE is less about the tools you use and more about how you use them. Understanding the platform you monitor, how it works, how to fix it, how to respond quickly when it breaks. The tools you use just help you get to that determination quicker & fix it quicker. Understanding the platform & configuring the tool are where your skill will set you apart.

Talking to an ex behind my back & covering it up. While investigating that, I uncovered absolutely awful notes she'd been keeping about my kids calling them things like "dumb as fuck" & "disgusting pieces of shit". The notes went back years. Informed her of my intention to get divorced that day.

Check out https://design.ui.com/. You can see the AP radiating pattern: https://imgur.com/a/DLnw81O

Do we know when Ubiquiti will release them to the production channels?

I tried this not too long ago on my new build. They stapled the coax to the studs and used some kind of silicone sealant where it came up through the attic, albeit in the wall where I couldn't see that it was there. Very frustrating figuring that out even after the builder had told me I should be able to use the coax to pull the cat6. Wound up running my cat6 the old fashioned way with fish tape.

I'd keep working, but without fear of getting fired. At least for a while. This doesn't mean I would do bad things, just that I wouldn't be as afraid to do things I typically don't do because I don't want to piss off the wrong people. I'd take more risks. Ironically, that mindset would probably yield favorable results in my career.

I use an Apple Watch & iPhone combo & make sure the alerting system can call me (like an actual call). That notification pattern on the watch is always enough to wake me up. You mentioned an app notifying you. Is that a notification service like PagerDuty? Most notification services can call you & even provide a contact card of numbers they'll call from so you can allow it through your Focus settings.

I have my primary number set to forward all calls to my captioning app, which won't work for the above because the watch vibration is not the same, so I got my work to pay for a second line on my phone (eSim) to where calls to that line will ring as normal & vibrate my watch enough to wake me up. It hasn't failed me yet.

If you look at the bottom right of the panel after selecting an AP, it'll show you the radiation pattern: https://imgur.com/a/DLnw81O

If you have a floorpan document available, you can check out https://design.ui.com and see for sure.

At least they thank you for it when you call them?

I've not seen anything that can beat Netdata's real-time-ness. I get downvoted when I mention it and I'm not sure why.

The new plans do not include tax & will be more expensive once you factor that in. I haven't done the math fully but from what I've seen, it's not worth changing.

Add steaks to that list. It costs me more to grill a steak meal at home than it does to get one at a restaurant like Texas Roadhouse.

I don't know if I'm just dumb or what, but every 2 years seems to be the sweet spot for the trade in value to where the upgrades with carriers are essentially free. Yes there's the caveat of "Well you gotta stay with that carrier or pay your device off", but I need a cellular plan anyway & would be staying with this carrier regardless. I tend to upgrade every 2 years for that reason.

https://status.cursor.com

https://statusgator.com/services/cursor

Seems to be short lived, whatever it was

Please stay healthy Erick. We need you.

Agreed. Main thing is you want to get the timing of how much gas to press as you’re releasing the clutch. Get a feel for where the clutch release point is. The whole thing is mainly timing the clutch release point with just enough pressure on the gas pedal. Finding that balance.

Once you have that, you’ll just want to get in the habit of shifting through the gears. Accelerating is progressive: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. Typically you’ll want to shift before the RPMs get too high, maybe stay between 2-3k RPM while cruising. Obviously this is subjective depending on driving style, i.e. if you want to go faster you can let the RPMs get higher. Just don’t the RPMs get to the red line until you know what you’re doing and have a better idea of the car’s condition.

Decelerating is not usually progressive but can be. One way to do it is if you are slowing down and you’re getting to a point of needing to change gears, put it in neutral (clutch in, pop stick to neutral, clutch out) then brake. Try not to ride the clutch while slowing down. If you slow to a stop, put it back in first gear. If not, find the gear that best matches your speed and shift to it, then go.

A good rule of thumb is to try to get used to thinking of the different gears as to how fast you can go. This is going to be different for every car but generally:

1st - 0-10mph
2nd - 10-20mph
3rd - 20-30mph
4th - 30-50mph
5th - 50mph+

Pay attention to the RPMs to get a better idea of the speed ranges for each gear. 1-3k RPM are usually the sweet spot.

Lastly; you’re going to stall it while you figure this out. Probably a lot. That’s ok. It feels rough but it’s not going to hurt the car (or shouldn’t if it’s mechanically sound). Try to avoid hills at first but you’ll want to take them on eventually, when you have a better feel of the clutch/gas balance. Enjoy yourself! It can be a lot of fun!

How did you find a vehicle that old in the northeast with no rust? That's like a unicorn in itself.

And when the NCAA tries to put rules into place now, the schools sue them.

I fluctuate between a 4 and a 9. I typically order ProV1's at the beginning of the season when they have the buy 3 dozen get 1 dozen free deal & will use those typically. Depending on how I'm playing, I'll also get a box of Kirklands for practice or if I'm working on something.

I used these guys before to get a few cables from the basement to the 2nd floor: https://www.techkinect.com/

They did a good job. Had to make some small cuts in the drywall to run the cables but they patched it up when they were done. Cost me a little under $300, which I thought was reasonable. It was a newer home though so I’m sure that factored into the ease and cost.

Kirklands are pretty cheap as mentioned. They're also a very soft & spinny ball, even more so than the ProV1s. If you're hooking/slicing the ball a lot, Kirklands are going to make that worse: https://mygolfspy.com/labs/is-kirkland-back-we-tested-kirkland-performance-vs-titleist-pro-v1-golf-balls/

Try to find a ball that fits your game. You'll play better.

What trim? If it's TRD Pro, it might be worth $80k!