u/a_false_vacuum

I own the Beta AR and suffice to say it can get very toasty in there. This is the reason more high-end hardshells have zippers on the side so you can let heat and moisture out. For everything else I would go with a softshell. I also have the Gamma Jacket which is a much better choice for most conditions. My Gamma Jacket has zero problems with light rain, it takes a while for it to really wet out. The Beta Jacket is fine, but save it for when the weather is really nasty.

But why not Miles too?

Miles did sell out other people in the aftermath of S4. During S5 Palmer keeps pressing Miles for information, blackmailing him with this fact. Otherwise Miles would have gone to jail too.

The power of the KGB depended on the era. Under Lenin and Stalin it went pretty much unchecked. Even Stalin himself was scared of the KGB and specifically it's head Beria. After Stalin died the entire Soviet political and military leadership pulled together to rid themselves of Beria. However even under Gorbachev the KGB still held a lot of power by virtue of their knowledge of the state of the country, which was often hard to guess because a lot of party officials just lied to their superiors to keep their jobs.

Another factor is that a facility like Star City operates under different rules. The Soviet Union had a number of hidden or classified cities which were massive research facilities with strict security protocols. This would have given the local KGB a lot more power than they would have had in other places.

Topix Cloud is the diagnostic software used by Land Rover dealers.

Only a dealership or someone else with Topix Cloud can do an offline update for you.

Did a 8 day solo trip to Iceland last year. Do yourself a favour and rent a 4WD vehicle, it makes driving in bad conditions a bit easier and is even mandatory if you want to explore the highlands. I rented a Toyota Landcruiser, but there are cheaper options too. I guess my only gripe about the car was that it lacked Apple Carplay and had no builtin satnav so using maps was a bit more work.

As for the weather dress in layers. I wore a waterproof jacket, had a fleece vest underneath it. When the weather changes you can remove some layers or put them back on as needed. Also goretex hiking boots are nice to have too. Saw some folks on sneakers having to walk through snow that came up to their ankles. Didn't look like a good time.

When I was in Iceland last year I stayed at the Fosshotel Stykkisholmur for two days while exploring the Snaefellsnes peninsula. I had no problems driving to any of the major attractions on the peninsula from there. Close to the hotel there was a petrol station and a Bónus which made it easy to stock up before heading out.

Going one size up did the trick and now they fit well. Very comfortable boots for hiking and every day use.

The RF 70-200 F2.8L IS USM (the externally zooming one) doesn't take teleconverters. The new Z version does take teleconverters and handles even the 2x very well. The biggest downside is the asking price for this new version of the 70-200 F2.8. There are more cost effective ways to get 400mm and have good image quality. The EF 100-400 F4.5-5.6L IS USM II will also do that and can be bought for much less. You could even get the RF 100-500 and still have some cash left.

I found a solution/workaround that for me appears to have resolved the issue without having to disable Advanced Threat Defense. BitDefender allows you to add exclusions to the ATD functionality. I added an exclusion for RtkAudUService64.exe which is the RealTek audioservice. You'll have to look on your computer where it's located, for me it was in the Windows driver folder. After adding the exclusion I didn't notice anymore audio popping when playing audio either through the browser or from VLC, even when both are playing at the same time.

Without either BitDefender or Realtek releasing a patch for their products this appears to be the least worst workaround.

The special functions will lag behind compared to the GAP IID.

The 2.8Z with teleconverters doesn't make much financial sense. The RF 100-500 is cheaper than the 70-200 F2.8Z by itself. Add in the teleconverters and it becomes even more expensive. You pay a hefty premium for a bit more aperture and less reach than the 100-500 offers out of the box.

Myself I never felt the need to trade my 70-200 F2.8L for the 2.8Z. I like how compact this 70-200 can become, I mean I can fit this lens in my sling bag with a full frame body attached. I can't think of any other 70-200 F2.8 lens that can do that. For travel this is the 70-200 to get because it is so easy to bring with you.

The lack of sharpness could be down to a number of things.

The RF 100 F2.8L Macro lens has a problem called focus shift. What that means is when you stop down the lens the plane of focus shifts backwards slightly. This happens because Canon cameras focus with the lens wide open and afterwards stop down to whatever value you set. Your R6m2 can compensate for this. In the red menu there is an option for Exposure Simulation. Normally it's only set for exposure but you can set it to exposure and depth of field. That forces your R6m2 to focus with the aperture you set.

Edit: I almost forgot, the RF 100 has what is called the SA Control Ring. If it's not set to the neutral position that could soften your image too. Make sure it's set to neutral and locked there.

Another reason can be cropping. If you crop heavily - which you might have to do with a 100mm lens - you enlarge the image and it can look less sharp because of it.

As a wildlife photographer the RF 100 F2.8L Macro wouldn't be my first choice for this kind of work. Not because it's a bad lens, but 100mm is very short when it comes to wildlife. For animals that allow me to approach them I prefer to use my RF 70-200 F2.8L. For the most part however my RF 100-500 does all the heavy lifting. On a full frame camera even 500mm can feel like it's not enough when dealing with small subjects or skittish animals you can't get anywhere close to.

Since you already got the RF 100 F2.8 Macro keep it. It's a great lens and macro in the field can also be fun to do. For wildlife specific you can consider the RF 100-400 F5.6-8 IS USM as your next purchase. Or if you know you're dealing tame animals maybe the RF 70-200 F4L IS USM, which is also a great and versatile lens.

The ZV-E10 is a more video oriented camera meaning it lacks an EVF, so you only have the back LCD screen. In bright conditions that could be a problem when you can't properly see the screen anymore. Having an EVF in such conditions can be an advantage. The R50 is newer so you also benefit from more advanced autofocus algorithms.

The standard kit lens for the R50 is the RF-S 18-45. Not the best lens, but it will do fine for most stuff close to you. Spend your extra budget on the RF 100-400 F5.6-8 IS USM so you have a telephoto lens which you'll need on a safari. Since this lens has been out for a while you can also buy it used on places like MPB to stretch your budget. Should you still have some budget left consider getting the RF 16 prime lens for some landscape shots and low light ability.

Also don't forget to buy a few quality memory cards from brands like Sony, Sandisk, Lexar or Prograde. You don't need the fastest cards since the R50 only has a UHS-I compatible slot. Cards rated at V30 or V60 will be enough. Don't cheap out on cards, you don't want to come home only to discover you lost a ton of photos due to a corrupted card. It's also a good idea to buy one or two spare LP-E17 batteries so you have enough juice for multiple days of shooting if you have to.

To see the difference in image quality between the RF 35 and the RF 28-70 F2.8 you can do that right here. When both are stopped down to F8 like you would for landscapes the difference between the two is minimal. When shot wide open the RF 35 is better in the midframe and corners.

You could also consider the RF 14-35 F4L IS USM as a replacement for both your primes. It costs about the same as the RF 28-70 F2.8 when bought new and has been around long enough for plenty of used copies to be on the market. For a comparison of the image quality click here. Only downside might be that F4 isn't ideal for astro.

Others have already mentioned the R50 V which is probably the best budget option for both video and stills. For the product shots you may want a semi macro lens like the RF 35 F1.8 Macro IS STM or the RF 85 F2 Macro IS STM. Both can focus very close to the subject giving you a half life size reproduction, making them great for product shots and some close-up B roll. You can save some money by buying either of these lenses used from places like MPB. If you can only afford one lens the RF 35 might be the most versatile of the two since it's not too tight of a view for other uses.

Post processing is also important to get good results. For video you can use DaVinci Resolve. It's fully featured and best of all free to use. Mind you it does come with a steep learning curve. For processing images you can either use Lightroom or DxO Photolab. Both are paid products. Lightroom requires a subscription while Photolab can be bought for a one time fee. Affinity Photo is free these days so you could explore that option too.

Depending on what you want to do a tripod could come in handy too.

Impossible to tell. There are a lot of factors at play here like how good the recovery software is and how the card is formatted.

Single point AF is the best way of dealing with this. Use that single point to find your subject and focus on it. Now your camera will try and recognize a subject and that is why it might start hunting anyway if a branch or something moves in front of the subject. If it really persists in doing so you can disable all subject recognition, however it is up to you to keep your focus point(s) on target when you do.

Another way of solving this problem is once you have the subject in focus to stop tracking. For this you need to be using back button focus so your camera won't try looking for the subject when you press the shutter button. The potential problem with this solution is that if you have a really shallow depth of field your subject could move in such a way it will not be in focus anymore.

As long as nothing is writing to the SD card you have the best chance you'll ever have of recovering data. However there are no guarantees here, so get some recovery software and use it to read to the card to see what you can restore.

Does that budget als include lenses? If it does you might be better off getting a high-end webcam instead. Older DSLRs either won't work as webcam or do a very poor job of it.

An entry-level camera like the R50 is probably your best bet. It supports UVC/UAC streaming so you don't need any extra software to use it as a webcam. The newer R50 V supports more features, but the body only price is outside of your budget. The R50 you can find plenty on places like MPB. Because of the low light situation you want a lens with a fast aperture (low F number). Ideally one the Sigma RF-S prime lenses since they offer an affordable F1.4 aperture. The RF 24 or RF 35 can also be an option with their F1.8 apertures.

Lastly, avoid FB marketplace. It's safer to buy used gear from places like MPB. It will cost a little more, but the chances of being scammed are a lot lower and most of their used products come with a warranty.

Zooms versus primes is personal preference. I prefer zooms because one lens can cover a lot of ground, this way I can travel light if I want to.

The Sigma 18-50 will win purely on being very flexible. It covers the range of a standard zoom which is very useful in the majority of situations. The only problem will be that if you switch to the R8 the Sigma isn't the best choice. The RF 28 is a full frame lens so you can use it on the R8 without losing resolution. Image quality from the RF 28 is good on both crop and full frame.

If you plan on passing on your R100 to your sister you may want to keep the kit lens so she can use it.

Apple Photo is the culprit here. Most cloud based photo storage providers are not equipped or willing to store RAW files due to the size of the files. So either they get converted in to jpeg format when you upload them or the download from the cloud converts them into jpeg to save on bandwidth. If you have your RAW files on an external drive it's best to copy the files to your computer from the drive and not through any cloud service. That way nothing will try and change the files during transfer.

It depends on what you want from the lens. The RF 50 F1.8 is more consistent across the frame versus the RF 45 F1.2 that aims for centre performance. There is also the focus shift issue on the RF 45 that might be a deal breaker for some.

Before buying the EF-RF adapter maybe take a look at used RF 50 F1.8 lenses. When bought used these can sell for roughly the same price as the adapter does. Saves you the bulk of adding an adapter to such a lens and it might even give you a little upgrade when it comes to the quality of the lens. If however you plan on buying more EF glass getting the adapter will be worth it, but not for just adapting this single lens.

Other than the I think the most versatile lens you can buy for your R50 is the Sigma RF-S 18-50 F2.8 DC DN. It's a fast standard zoom for APS-C cameras making it a perfect one and done solution for both portraits and travel.

Christopher Frost made an in-depth review of the RF 45 F1.2 STM which is worth watching. It comes down to this: if you value image quality go with the RF 50 F1.8, if you value aperture above all go with the RF 45 F1.2.