u/delayclose

There are serious health risks when using certain NSAIDs like ibuprofen during endurance sports / while being dehydrated.

Not going to get preachy here but I’d suggest anyone considering this to really look up what you’re taking and why.

Leg warmers offer more versatility and some warmers are warmer than others. My legs have been fine at least to -2 Celsius in dinky old Castelli’s.

However, I do need a pair of shorts on top of summer bibs at that kind of temperatures to block some wind. Much earlier in fact.

If your entire ride is going to be that cold you might as well wear full length thermal bibs. If the temperature climbs significantly during the ride, then having the ability to remove layers wins.

Good point, that’s true for the Renon battery I mentioned too. I really need to reconsider some stuff here.

most of us aren’t watching that stream tho

And they released the Velosamba a few years ago.

I have a fatbike I can use for commuting, but it’s only ideal for a fairly narrow range of conditions. I would not have it as my only bike, not even as my only commuting bike.

And while I don’t own a single ebike, if I absolutely had to commute on a bike through unplowed snow, I’d much rather have an e-fatbike than my regular one.

Not everyone here is doing just traditional road cycling experience.

I have nothing against clipless on normal road rides or riding fixed gear, but it also doesn’t solve any problems for me when I’m touring/bikepacking. It just leaves me with worse shoes for hike-a-bike and general walking around.

It is quite normal to be a fan of individual riders tho, and cycling jerseys don’t have a name on the back so…

sorry swiss bros, I was almost hoping you’d take it this time. would have been well-earned.

oh well, torille it is.

I’ll just add that if you’re riding with someone and they get a flat, you can patch the puncture while they’re swapping in the new tube. That way you’ll have a patched spare ready for the next flat.

How the timing works out depends on how practiced you both are, how shitty the pump you’re carrying is etc. :)

I’m not at all convinced it’s worth it to even ride clipless in sprint triathlon. I feel like you’d have to be pretty well-practiced in the second transition to save time vs riding in running shoes.

That said if you want to ride clipless for any reason at all, that’s of course different. Like others, I think practicing basic bike handling / city riding skills on flats would save you a few tumbles with no downside.

Does it have to be the clik valve specifically? There’s also https://bbbcycling.com/en_en/corecap

and

https://www.topeak.com/global/en/product/1817-TURBOFLOW-VALVE-KIT

You’re describing a problem advanced stop line (“bike box”) solves. Having to wait twice for lights to change twice isn’t acceptable bike infrastructure.

I agree that positioning for a left turn is sometimes hard to do safely, but that doesn’t seem to have been relevant for this accident.

according to the article he turned left while the driver came from the opposite direction through the intersection.

I know just how shitty comment sections can be, but a car going straight would have the right of way in this situation.

With traffic lights and a dedicated turn like (like in the article), I’d just take the lane and ride like a car would. That is, yield to oncoming traffic and then go. I don’t see how this would be more dangerous than any alternative.

I do sometimes follow the pattern on your video, when I need to do a left turn on a high speed highway with no place to wait.

The common cycling geared hubs absolutely do not handle gear changes under load at all. E.g. Shimano. nexus or alfine, or Sturmey-Archer hubs. I suspect the more expensive Rohloff hubs are the same.

Steel is easy to find if you don’t want carbon. Most of the reasonable alloy frames come with a carbon fork, so quality alloy forks seem like they’d be a rarity. No ideas there.

Thank you for being inclusive.

When a breakaway gets held up at a crossing, I’ve never seen them stop the main peloton to restore time gaps. I haven’t checked the rules but I assume it’s only about the group(s) actually stopped at the crossing

Manufacturers often address most of the points you mention, e.g. if grease or locktite should be used. Most of the bolts on my bike also specify a range instead of a single exact value.

I appreciate that the method you described can work but note that that isn’t what was done in OP’s case.

I’ll also point out that for me the saddle post has to take impacts of gravel riding and I’m near the specified weight limit. If I use paste as instructed and apply the max torque allowed, I can assume it’s going to work for the stated purpose, even on harder bumps than I’d want to apply on purpose simply to test it.

If I have a bike computer and a phone on the handlebars, it’s for a specific reason and I’m way past worrying about having a clean aesthetic.

That said, all quadlock mounts pretty big and obvious even when empty. If you want clean, use the basic mount with O rings and only attach it when needed.

I have massively more detailed maps and satellite imagery on my phone. If the route I have on garmin doesn’t work out, any ad-hoc rerouting is much simpler on the phone.

Obviously not that relevant for normal road rides.

This situation is specifically compressing a hollow carbon tube. In carbon frames, typically with a clamp that applies pressure on a fairly small area (compared to the total area of overlapping seat tube and seat post: the clamp screws simply push a pad directly into the post)

The fear isn’t will the joint hold, but how much compression can the seat post take without cracking. We’ve all seen pictures of top tubes cracking when people clamp bikes to a normal repair stand.

If you can explain why in this case excessive clamping pressure is a non issue I think that would make a lot of people sleep better.

How would having more irrational negativity help here?