u/faudanke

I'd like to ask, what extruder is that? I've been looking for a reductionless dual-gear extruder that I can 3D print. The design of that looks excellent especially the tensioner.. If it's under the Hero Me parts catalog, please, I'd really love to know which parts they are!

OrcaSlicer on a MacBook Neo here. GPU definitely struggles in the preview window with large prints (like a 75% scale Prusa Aero Engine) due to how high res the display is. You could probably drop down graphics settings, but I've left mine untouched. But seriously, it's usable. Slice times are not that much different from my Ryzen 5 3600 desktop.

WTF even is your filament for PLA to leave residue on glass?? Have you tried cleaning the bed with hot water too? Still then, it shouldn’t be leaving a residue. Are you removing your prints with the bed cooled down to room temp? If you are and it’s still leaving a residue, try putting the entire bed in the freezer till it pops off. If that doesn’t work then it’s time for you to go for a PEI plate lol.

you could try to point benchy's bow downstream of the airflow coming from the fan ducts, if that yields an improvement on curling then your issue is it's not getting enough time with airflow to cool. the taurus seems too restrictive and focused in my opinion. i'm sure you're getting great bridging performance with it but for high speed printing you'd want to cool the entire print as much as possible as the toolhead is always whipping around. i don't know much designs for the sprite extruder but i use the satsana dual 5015 on my ender 3 v2, and i've experimented with my own duct designs on it and found that raw CFM is more consistent than a jet of air.

150mm outer wall up to 10% overhang is stupid fast for a stock sprite. even 50% (75mm/s) for 25% overhang is still too fast. that baby 4010 isn’t moving enough air to prevent curling outside of stock ender 3 speeds, curling will be more prominent than overhang sagging in my experience. if you’re chasing speeds with klipper, upgrading part cooling first is a must. single 5015 fan at the absolute minimum, one that isn’t weaksauce.

Not the OS but rather the LCD icon package. You can update it as the LCD display itself is its own independent board and has a microSD card slot for flashing LCD firmware.

same here. DXMT was the only bug free and best performing renderer and i was getting solid, stable 60 fps on a macbook freaking neo! improved graphics, every setting on low except for grass and tesselation being enabled. 1408x881 at 100% render resolution (hi res mode might fix scaling beyond the macos' resolution setting).

i also followed a guide over at the wot subreddit that uses cxpatcher and manual installation of the latest DXMT files (v0.80 as of writing this). that might explain why using wine wasn't launching at all, but i'm too lazy to troubleshoot wine when dxmt works fine.

over wargaming's official crossover wrapper, ram usage dropped from 8.2gb to 6.4gb, making the game ACTUALLY playable. following that is MAJORLY improved/reduced stutters and even freezes, no worse than a recent 8gb windows laptop trying to run wot. i'm sold, buying crossover this christmas so i can grind holiday ops.

that would be a banger episode. i own an old tamaraw (revo) and the thing is gonna last forever even with my pissy maintenance practice of an oil change whenever i feel like it. absolutely in line with their current gag of anything but EV’s.

first season in and they already had their own africa by toto moment

Came across one of your posts again. I just found out what the Box 2.0 is and am glad you got the Box 2.0 to work with Creality Print.

I’m assuming you already use the special configurations tool (https://github.com/mriscoc/Special_Configurations) since it's a must with a Sprite Extruder Pro so you can use the #13 thermistor table that goes up to 300C.

From there, you can edit Configuration.h and/or Configuration_adv.h inside the Marlin folder, along with other files inside the repo to spoof the Box 2.0 to think the printer's running stock firmware. You’re on your own from there since I do not know anything about Creality’s Box 2.0.

You could try reverting to the stock Creality 4.2.7 firmware temporarily, connect a computer to it with Octoprint, and see what name it reports. Then set that name in the configurator tool. That’s my best guess in spoofing the Box 2.0 to work with custom firmware. 

i would not expect the neo to last a decade if you plan on doing the same workload on it as an m5 air as a daily laptop. 8gb ram with a single NAND chip isn't exactly confidence inducing, it performs well but that NAND is gonna be hit a lot and worn down quick with how aggressive macOS is with swap. but to be honest, you'd see the battery and even trackpad and keyboard wear down before NAND kicks the bucket. might even run out of OS updates too. but it's something worth knowing about especially if you're a power user.

what's your region? the image file they package for all regions is only for the NA region which is kinda a funny oversight from wargaming lol. it'll cough up a region error downloading the crossover bottle for wot asia on my end.

edit: holy crap i deleted the wargaming folder in application support which contained a leftover crossover bottle (i accidentally installed the NA client at first) and the asia installer works now. finally getting to try out world of tanks on a gotdamn macbook neo.

the ender 3 v2 doesn’t have any internet connectivity at all. you’d have to go klipper with a raspi to do so. that’s why they aren’t in creality cloud and creality print’s wireless printing. it’s all done via SD card on marlin firmware. and if you do indeed go raspi with klipper, you wouldn’t be able to use creality’s cloud suite. i recommend you go for orcaslicer straight away since it’s far superior and is what creality print is based on in the first place.

it’s stepper resonance most likely. the sound is very familiar to me. look up “Marlin TMC2209 Resonance Noise Tuning” on youtube to hear for yourself. the only fix is probably in machine settings for your slicer (i know orcaslicer has it, creality’s fork should have it too). look for resonance and take note what speeds it happens at with 45 degree moves (like solid infill). the slicer should automatically avoid sending feedrates at those speeds. as an example my ender 3 v2 has resonance at 100mm/s, and over 250mm/s.

the fact that poor transition tuning and resonance still exists on the sparkX i7 is insane. that is a low bar for a fast modern printer. i’d try a firmware reset or update too in good faith as troubleshooting.

did you run into issues with the stock heater? i’ve had to upgrade mine to 80W just to print PETG without triggering thermal runaway.

No different from a YouTuber selling merch. James’ just so happens to be a consumable gin. Plenty of creators out there that have their own merch in members-only videos. The gin is part of his channel.

throw in a 80W ceramic heater too, i bought mine from mellow3D and the TZ shares the same design as bambu’s heaters. the stock heater that comes with the TZ already has difficulty maintaining 260C at 20mm^3/s when printing with PETG and the stock single 4010 fan.

also might want to modify and reflash your firmware to use marlin’s MPC for PTC heaters. i’ve had issues of temperature errors (both overshoot and undershoot) that lead to a thermal shutdown one time since the firmware didn’t know that heater power drops at higher temps. or just use PID hotend temp control lol.

the cubes...

export as .STEP which is lossless and let your slicer do the conversion if solidworks is doing a poor job at exporting geometry.

i wonder what are the chances that’s fungus 😂. PLA is made from cornstarch. if it’s been stored for a while it might be a possibility.

Aluminum spacers totally crazy lol. I’d at least settle for shims instead of sanding. But really the bed screws wouldn’t be the only thing losing level. The V wheels and carriage contribute a bit too unless you’re on linear rails with a really stiff carriage. Best practice is to just compensate for any lost leveling with adaptive meshing or at most with mesh tilt, both are readily available with klipper for free.

i would check the connectors on the board and the toolhead itself. even a brief disconnection of the thermistor could trigger marlin’s thermal runaway detection since it’ll immediately drop to whatever lowest marlin could read.

1. If you plan on using the pi for things other than klipper, yes as long as it’s debian based. Be mindful of your background cpu usage while printing though or klipper will start to stutter. Mainsail OS or Fluidd exists as dedicated klipper distros. But the Pi4 is plenty powerful to run it off ubuntu.
2. Yes you can, but off the web. Say goodbye to your ender 3’s display unless it’s a DWIN model and if you bother to install klipperscreen for it.
3. You can get rid of the springs for silicone spacers, but don’t get rid of adjustment knobs entirely. You’d still want to manually level the bed at least once, in my opinion ideally before meshing at each bed temp for each type of filament, since it’ll warp differently from thermal expansion. Letting bed leveling do all the work is not the best idea.

update: i have bought a ugreen revodok (the ones that advertise 4k60 hdmi) and USB does indeed work alongside HDMI output. and i’m getting at least 100megabytes/s on a USB drive, so 3.0 speeds are definitely present and that single port is working very hard! i’m a bit disappointed in the lack of PD output from it’s two USBC ports to charge my phone with, but for $20 i can’t complain. also has two USB A’s and a dedicated USBC power input for those wondering.

someone seems very excited to use their elegoo neptune 4 max