u/fizzlebottom

Holy shit I missed that entirely.

Yeah, abandon this plan. Take it to a guitar tech and have them replace the pickup.

I've been watching Lindy Fralin repair pickups on his YT channel and can tell you there are 2 options: 

1. Unsolder the finish end and unwind until you find the break. If you haven't removed too much, you can lightly sand the new finish end and solder it back to the lead.

2. Completely rewind the pickup, especially if you can't find the break or if it is deep enough realistically affect the output.

If you're unable to do any of this yourself, you can send it to someone like Fralin to repair, but it will probably cost less just to replace the pickup altogether.

Happened to my wife's prius a few years ago, and I knew it the moment she went to start her car to leave for work. Sounded insane for a prius.

If you haven't done so already, check your insurance policy. Ours ended up covering the repairs and the shop installed a deterrent cage as well.

This bike has no points. Adjustment would a matter of loosening the pickup plate screws and rotating it accordingly. 

The advancer can likely use some lubrication, too.

Snark does not report their accuracy ratings, which should be a gigantic red flag. I've been using a Peterson tuner for 20 years. Used a Snark for the first time a few weeks ago and almost lost my fucking mind because of how awful it was.

I think literally anything would be better than a Snark. You'd be better off tuning to pitch of two logs smashing together.

I don't think you should have to hold the choke knob open. Yours is a plunger type, different than my lever type, but I'd imagine there is still some mechanism that allows you to set a hold tension on the plunger.

You absolutely should not have to hold it. Tighten the choke lever bolt a little so it holds the lever position better.

Well that's a bummer then. Guess you're in for a full teardown. Follow the guide that's already been linked. Take it slow and be mindful. There are a few good videos about getting the choke return spring back in.

Randakk is the supplier I recommend.

You'll have to determine whether it is leaking from fuel rail o-rings, bowl gaskets, or if the float needles are not sealing properly causing an overflow. Remove the carbs, get them set steady and flat on a workbench, then fill and observe where fuel is leaking from.

Only replace what's needed. If nothing is leaking, don't replace rubber. Never use aftermarket jets or floats.

Why do you think you need to rebuild them at all?

Aftermarket jets are often a huge problem for older Honda bikes with Keihin carbs. They simply are not manufactured with the same specs, meaning that the hole sizes and positions in the emulsion tubes are not precise. This very well could be part of the problem. Unless your original jets were physically corroded or broken, there's literally 0 need to replace them when targeting a stock running condition. It does sound like dirty passages could be part of it as well.

1968 Shelby Mustang GT500 KR Convertible. Only 318 made. Been my dream car since I was 15.

Used to have a '68 Mustang Fastback that was a restoration project, but life took priority and it left me. I'd absolutely love to get that car back.

Same setup here. We were going 80 and could hear clearly. The combination of a nice helmet, custom fit ear plugs, and proper speaker placement is what really sets a quality audible comm system apart from an unlistenable setup.

Confused. You said your amp has a feature that allows you to connect to your PC, but you also mention a USB mic. So what is actually going on?

Latency really isn't an issue with modern USB interfaces. Whatever that feature is you're referring to probably is not really on par with real interfaces, but you won't know unless you give one a try.

How did you previously connect your guitar to your computer?

In a fixed-bias amp, bias is adjusted most often by changing a resistor value associated with the bias supply. It is perfectly safe, for testing, to swap the tubes of the same kind from one amp to another. Unless you bias as I mentioned, you wouldn't want to run them regularly. But temporarily for testing, it should be just fine. It'll at least let you see if your original tubes are problematic or if something else in the circuit may be causing an issue.

Nothing about what you just said matters. Tubes don't care about age, and to some degree they don't care about hours of usage. They will wear eventually but mostly due to health or failure of all the components that come before them.

The brand does not matter. So long as their are the same type, swap away. You would likely have to adjust bias, but otherwise it should not be a problem. 

The amp turning on slowly sounds like an issue with filter caps, not tubes. Should take it to a tech to have it looked at.

No you do not need to change the phase inverter tube when you change power tubes. You do need to make sure you bias the new tubes properly though. And ensure that your filter caps are functioning.

Get a tech to go over the amp. Sounds like it needs some work

Only if you want to. Unless they're affecting your playing or no longer fastening hardware properly then it's all just cosmetic.

Yes, that's how it works. This applies to literally any guitar amp that has a preamp stage and power amp stage. It doesn't always mean it'll sound good, but all you're doing with the boost pedal is providing a much hotter signal for the first preamp stage to amplify, which will lead to earlier clipping than without the boost.

Lower dB protection is literally worthless for motorcycle earplugs.

Try foam plugs. You'll either have to get used to the change, risk damaging the absolute shit out of your hearing by riding without plugs, or quit altogether.

Without being able to look at the innards or tap some tubes, the diagnosis is "something is wrong". It could be the amp, the guitar, or the cable. It could be a poor solder joint, failing capacitor, torn speaker, failing tube, broken wire, or anything in-between.

Clean it up with some WD40 or whatever rust preventative / reformer of your choice. I've read a number of stories of these bikes rusting quicker than they should. Could be a number of factors. Unless Honda recalls them or offers warranty work from rust, then you're solely on the hook for rust prevention and mitigation.