u/fletchro

I was taught a cool way of counting to 9 on one hand. Hey the left hand involved (worth 10x more), and you can count up to 99 on two hands!

Pinky, ring, middle, pointer == 1,2,3,4. But then...

Your thumb is worth 5 😱🤯!!

Thumb and pinky = 6, and so on. When you get to ten, all the right hand lifts off the table (or opens, or whatever) to represent zero and you put down a left hand pinky.

https://preview.redd.it/4d7cypwdn7yh1.png?width=2400&format=png&auto=webp&s=728d74ec91d41da9210d35dcf9d1e2e700348ef3

"When you're a beech, you're a beech all the way: from your first taste of soil to brightness of day!" Apologies to West Side Story fans.

Which came first, I wonder? 🤔

Seafoam "Deep Creep" or another brand of penetrating oil, then wait ten minutes and try again.

THAT sounds like a slur!😁

Great work! I recommend branching out from pine and trying walnut or cherry for your next project.

I like pine just fine, and by that I mean not stained to look like walnut. 😁 (When my kids were little, one time one of them asked for toast "just fine." Which apparently means toasted, with butter only! You can check out the chairs I've made using just pine and boiled linseed oil on my profile. Another kid asked for toast, not cooked. So, bread. You want bread.

Test in some scrap that has similar grain as your chosen wood.

In certain situations, they are great! If you use them wrong, they don't work at all.

Like I have a paper towel holder, and there is a Tee nut on the bottom of the base, and a threaded post coming out if the bottom of the column, so it threads into the base perfectly. But if you are trying to hold something down, and you don't have access to the bottom surface, and you try to use a threaded insert in the top of the base, it will pull out. So method AND hardware are both important.

👁️ Surveillance State: I voted Nay.

I think it will go back after you take off the strong back you've clamped there. The wood has to WANT to be flat.

Hmmm. You say you're going to hand plane the top flat. So, you should be able to hand plane this joint so that it closes up a good deal better than this.

Hmmm. You say you're going to hand plane the top flat. So, you should be able to hand plane this joint so that it closes up a good deal better than this.

It takes time for your brain to learn to see the pairs. It's as much practise as it is learning something new, I bet.

Prom, prim, pram!

With my heart. 🥰

With about 4 simple sketches, you could have this planned out to a tee.

1- side view, shows how tall and wide and how much overhang the top has

2- other side view, shows overhang and length

3- section view of how the stretchers connect to the legs

4- detail of how the legs attach to the top. The picture shows enormous round plugs. Are they dowels? Are they hiding screws? You get to decide. I would do figure 8 fasteners, pocket holes, or z-clips hidden under the top on the inside.

This doesn't help you with this one, but fit the next one.

Hot tip: the way the staples are made, and loaded, and the way you hold the gun influences which way the nail can swerve.

Take a look at the Brad nails. They have a chisel tip, one direction only. Imagine that's like an airplane wing, and it can lift off. That's the direction the nail can go, it's not going to turn left if it's lifting UP.

Most hand saws that you can easily buy at a hardware store, even if they say "combination cut" are cross cut. So that's good, you should have no trouble getting one.

Re: the saw wandering around, ehh, don't be too quick to blame the saw, there IS a fair amount of technique involved in staying straight. It's muscle movements of multiple large muscle groups, and it requires coordination to get everything right. Here's a trick, if your saw plate is shiny enough, watch the side and see the reflection of the board you're cutting. The saw plate acts like a mirror and mirrors show angles really well. So, if you're aligning the saw correctly, the wood will appear to continue straight in the reflection, not bend like a hockey stick. Watch that closely every couple saw strokes, because hands and arms tend to not cooperate and they do whatever the heck they want to do. They think they're helping!

A hand saw might be your best bet. It needs to be a cross cut saw, though, or you'll struggle. Cross cut saws are like knives, they sever the wood fibers. The other option is rip cut, which is like a thickened classic "saw tooth" profile, these teeth are like tiny chisels that plow up tiny bits of wood, and they are not ideal for cutting across a fence post, but they could still work.

Use a square or make a square jig so you can mark the post at least half way around. Then closely follow your line at first, and after you've got a lot of the saw in the cut, just stay lined up to where you are and keep going!

Also, do you have a try square? Those are the L shaped tools to check for 90°. After you make the cut, check it with the try square to see how you did. Keep practicing and inspect your work so you can improve. You've got this.

Yeah, you need to remove some material to get even grain appearance. The question is do you want to do that work with your own arm or with electrons?

Random orbit sander. Change the pad every twenty minutes. Use water or mineral spirits for a preview of what it will look like with finish on it.

Well, maybe use a water based clear coat on the edges first, and then paint the sides. I'm not sure. I recommend do a test a couple of different ways using some scrap material.

Yeah, I remember watching one show and they completely demolished the entire house on day one, day two was pouring a new slab, and day three was framing the new house. They literally said they used a special quick curing concrete mix. 😱 I don't know what happened to that house but I bet it wasn't great.

Cop pulls over an electron for speeding. "Do you know how fast you were going back there?" "No, but I know where I was!"

Cop says, "look, buddy, I clocked you going 99.9% the speed of light! In a 35 zone!" The electron says, "Great! Now I'm LOST!"