u/gotDeus

Seeing that you have two places with a dents/marks indicating a fall damage, its plausible that your second picture also seems to show a slight bend on the flange. Might want to check the clearance on that.

I have the pomoly stovehut 70 with the matching mat and a cheap folding woodstove. Like what the other person said, its pretty cramped inside (i’m 5’4) and even more with two people and some gear. Low ceiling and angled walls. Also kind of limiting where you can place it since it takes almost twice the length of a regular tent with the guy lines staked out. Have not have problems on top of frozen dirt/snow, the awning is great with a low chair and some low tables, specially happy with it during rainy days/nights, sucked when it gets windy cause now you cant hang out under the awning and will have to close it. 3 doors, including the part where the woodstove goes, works as an extra space for gear/bags if you leave the woodstove at home. I also have a portable A/C and a diesel heater that i’ve piped through the stove jack hole (not sure if thats as selling point for you)

*picture of my first night with the tent pitched sloppily cause it sucked digging out the snow and pitching the tent with frozen hands cause we got to camp after sundown.

Damn.. guess that makes mine really just destined to be a donor parts unit for an RB67 back..

The cover has 3 points of contact thats needed to “touch” the screen of the phone to be able to set the reference point for orientation or image axis, at least for the app to work. Without it, i’d imagine you’d need to do alignment and exposure time by hand off the app.

Kodak Ultramax 400 / Gold 200 / Ultramax 400

*edit. rolls from the last chem i used that i know of, slight variance in colors but between 2 of the 400s one was close to fresh and one was after a couple of rolls were already developed in the the same chems.

Just to be clear, Not an expert on what actually happens but have read posts and watched videos pertaining to differences in chems, processes, film stocks etc. shaka1277 on YT and maybe here has more technical info on this. If i had to guess for money, it would be that the labs use a different type of chems than what off the shelf products can offer. It could be the dev, it can be the bleach/fix/blix. There’s also dyes that leak out during development that can affect the base color of the next rolls. But brownish yellow sounds like old film or the difference between the first roll you develop on fresh chems and the last (film roll #8-12) or roll #2-3 a month after mixing.

Developer age, film base age or batch, difference in chems used, variance in temperatures, specially if you’re comparing lab vs home dev.

That rust is pretty bad, even got to other parts adjacent to the rewind button and im almost sure theres some hidden under that battery tray. Hate to ask but was a battery left in there? getting those brass parts out in one piece would be pure luck at this point. I’ve spent some days cleaning and re applying vinegar + IPA on one CL that i had before that had corrosion from a battery that was left in it.

https://preview.redd.it/6grvpdirl6th1.jpeg?width=1170&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=00df8099d00234e3a766ea66a661d6e97e0c4f6c

Here ya go.

A gel filter color of your choice cut to size, in the shape of like a very small apostrophe. Red was the original color. Glued to the arm located above the indicator. I’ll try to find a reference picture if i can. But its something fairly simple to fabricate if you have the time, dexterity and patience to cut one up, and then some to open the top plate up.

It can be done, how thick of a filter can you slap on there and not hit the mirror is the question. Definitely you will not have the space for the 50mm as it is already as close as it can get to clearing the mirror at infinity.

The other problem is glass and glass thickness, coating or optical quality added after the optical path will behave differently. (Front vs rear mounted filters) definitely you’ll see some focus shift or color shift (wavelengths) with color film. This is why some lenses with filter trays require a clear filter (ND1). For black and white, i’d imagine it will most likely add reflections, glare or ghosting. Gel filters might work, cheaper to experiment with.

Best bet as they’re licensed for parts and repairs.

Okay, so Leica/Minolta CLs work differently than other cameras with built in light meters. When you change shutter speeds or ASA/ISO the mechanism physically moves the galvanometer clockwise or anti-clockwise that makes the needle go up or down. Most cameras use variable resistor tracks that changes the electrical value of what the sensor reads to change what the meter says, or physical masks to change the light that the sensor reads.

So that means mechanically, you have something inside that is touching another part that it shouldn’t. The parts you need to look at are under the top plate, Mainly the cams behind the shutter-speed/iso dial and the galvanometer assembly. Out of the CLs that i’ve fixed, one had an issue like this, came out to be that the cam arms needed to be bent back straight and lubricated a little. The shutter speed dial + cam assembly also needed to be cleaned and lubricated lightly.

From my observation since i like to buy, fix, use, and resell: working with bargain/as-is/for parts Chinese lenses compared to used voigtlanders or zeiss is that the Chinese lenses have less complicated but necessary adjustment/calibration parts. Usually shims between the front and rear cells needed to correct optical aberrations, which explains the image quality variance between copies. Also, lots of tooling marks and often copious amounts of helicoid grease like it was diddy’s bday party. This goes for 7A and TTA as they are most common next to VMs and ZMs.

VMs and ZMs have better finish (inside and outside) and more internal parts similar to Leicas when it comes to adjustment and tuning. Just maybe a tad wider tolerance compared to Leicas, but even then LMs have their own “quirks” as others call it where even after passing through the hands of Leica, could exhibit issues even with after CLA. Rangefinders are finicky and require each lens to be calibrated to 1 body (preferably one that has been serviced and calibrated to factory spec. then use that body as a reference for the next body/lens for adjustments.

Thanks! Not yet, i want to see how this one holds up, then maybe i can improve it further. If anyone wants though i can send it to them. I also have the rewind crank and screw to lock it in if anyone needs those parts, and for the later models too.

As for CNC, i’m considering it but need a way to measure the threaded part inside the original part that i’m trying to recreate. I dont think i’d find a tap for such a fine thread. brass or aluminum would be way better than this. Its currently threaded on by a tighter tolerance and locked in by a grub screw to hold it in place.

Possibly the shutter assembly. Everything else around it would be different.

Bought one for $50 “as-is” for parts, seller said that they couldn’t get it calibrated. tested with a sony a7 and immediately knew one of the lens elements was either loose or installed backwards. What made the whole diy fix a breeze was the fact that the lens elements/diagram is printed on the box lol. second or third element was flipped. anyways, calibration was done on my M4-2 with a spare viewfinder from my nikon F2 + magnifying loupe. you could go with the wax paper or magic tape route but it has to be taut and flat against the film rails. follow the instructions for angle and distance placement of the chart. If you find that the infinity stop is off, you can loosen the 3 grub screws on the focusing barrel and shift the markings.

But with how wide this lens is, its pretty hard to miss focus. other than needing a viewfinder attachment, my copy had clearance issues where the roller cam was touching the rear lens housing so i had to file it down a little.

Been there, i sacrificed a 48mm lens filter with a locking ring to replace the one the previous owner cross threaded on my Giii. But a lose front assembly like that means something else got lose so you’ll need to take some more part off to tighten them.

Sanning with a nikon Z50, Nikon Micro 55mm 2.8. Imported to Lightroom and inverted through NLP, using standard profiles that fits/looks best.

I think this was Fuji Color 200 (by Kodak not the old fuji from japan) camera scan and processed through Lr/NLP

Its the cam to arm the meter arm. Yes its supposed to have some play when the meter arm is fully out. if you yanked it out too far then the meter arm might be stuck too far out.

Here’s the thing, you can buy another CL that may end up needing a CLA sometime in the near or far future, or, have the one you have repaired (given that you have received a quote) and have a working, CLA’d camera for the next decade.

As for you other option, the only variables with those are the Viewfinder magnification and framelines, ease of film loading (m2/m3 vs M5), rewind style, and in-body meter options. Have a look at the M4-2 & M4-P as well.

Loved it but sold it to get a 35 nokt. Reason being, i already have a summicron 40 that i could never let go or replace since it was my grandfathers and it came with his CL. The other reason was the focus shift at close distance. Takes a while to get used to, but man i loved it for the character it has.

I’ve used in on my CL and M4-2, framelines was a non-issue for me atleast. Here’s a color shot @1.4 - CLASSIC (SC)

https://preview.redd.it/aub4x7g1b1lh1.jpeg?width=2842&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9f2c5ed98ebb76f25329fb719456d5ba093f59a1

Well, certainly following this if i ever need the reason to completely disassemble my other GIII. I went around the easy/lazy way of just leaving the blades in the housing and running that assembly through the ultrasonic cleaner. Hope someone can help!