u/halcyon44

+1 That model has been running for me for almost 4 years at this point.

Floor joists are 2x6s, 16oc; height may look less due to the siding overlapping the rim joists. Floor is 3/4" treated T&G. The heaviest thing in it is an old chest of drawers, and the floor feels solid throughout. I could've saved a few dollars doing 24oc I suppose.

I went with 8" overhangs on my 10x12; too much on a small building like a shed looks off.

https://preview.redd.it/waayrcjhr3xh1.jpeg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=088e4e5aa465ab4fa30d7d919aab19a0b37248a4

I usually use camelcamelcamel.com for amazon price history. Setup a price watch for your wish list.

Most low horse stances I see have the feet further apart than shoulder width. Can you share a photo of the proper horse stance that you're describing?

Tear off the existing siding, add z-flashing to sill anywhere the siding doesn't overlap it, water barrier on walls extending over the flashing, then new siding.

Seconded. This is what the local building inspector (central MN) told me would work best for a gravel foundation. Auger-type anchors attached with carriage bolts into the floor framing.

For sure. That looks like untreated pine, and they can't even by 1x thick.

I'm a newb at framing, but here's an idea:

If you don't want to raise the other half to match, you could put another gambrel truss near the end of the old structure, then frame 2x4s on the flat flush with the top of it, seating both on the existing gambrel plate. The flat portion would be the bottom "plate" of a half wall extending to your new structure top plate. Attach to the outside of your end full-height stud, then add cripples.

Make sure to flash the joint properly where the wall meets the existing roof.

Terrible idea? Quite possibly.

Do you have a plan for how you're going to join the old roof to the new?

I'm not familiar with UK building materials, so take this with a grain of salt.

Is it possible that the light box is attached only to the ceiling material (e.g. drywall), and not a structual member like a joist?

A track saw is probably the best, but fairly expensive. I made some builtin bookshelves last year and used a Rip-Cut to make perfectly square and straight cuts on 4x8 sheets by myself. I've also had good luck with a clamping straight edge guide.

I was confused by this recently too, but I figured out how to configure the redirect properly in OpenWRT. Let me know if you run OpenWRT and need help.

I tamped down a 12ft x 14ft plot of with a mechanical tamper a couple of weeks ago. When I initially filled the foundation frame with clean gravel, it looked like so much extra that I dumped probably 1/4 of it around the sides before starting up the mechanical tamper. By the time I finished, watering liberally every 20 minutes or so, I had 100% of the "extra" in and packed down. Mechanical tampers are worth it.

Optional::get() exists to extract the value when you know that it's not null. If you're unsure and want a null reference of the wrapped type when it's empty, use .orElse(null) instead.

No worries - really good advice all in all!

In MN the frost line is 60" in the north half and 42" in the south, so 18" isn't much better than blocks on the ground in terms of preventing heaving.

The frost line in the north half of MN is 60", in the south half it's 42".

source 1 source 2

The only place is see 80" referenced is Hammerpedia, which states that the "State Average Frost Depth" is 80" with a link to the Department of Labor and Industry homepage. Do you have a more specific reference for the 80" figure?

The goal is to get the surface of the new tile level with the existing tiles, right? Think of it like this: you have to scrape up enough of the old thinset mortar so that when you dry-fit the new tile, it is level or a slightly below the level of the existing tile. If the new tile is below those around it when dry-fit, you can add a little extra thinset to get it level, but if it's too high, you have to scrape out more of the old stuff.

After trying a few more times to add my custom library location, Steam recognized the games. The UI is confusing and bad, but it ended up working for me.

Nope, Steam isn't listed in flatseal.

Steam lost track of my library, and now when I try to add it back nothing happens. I don't think I'm running the flatpak version, but I'll try flatseal.

I'd just redo the whole thing. It's a PITA and keystones are relatively expensive, but I reckon once you start putting the blade on the outside, all the rest will test as good.

I'm a novice but recently completed 22 drops with keystones. It gets easier, and yours look good except for the green and I think I see some conductor exposed on the white/blue. Are you making sure to position the sharp side of the tool on the outside of the keystone? If punched down correctly, the wire will be cut (or nearly cut) on the outside of the keystone.