u/joepool03

Scottish Power EV optimise? Lowest day rates I’ve found, plus 9p/kwh anytime smart charging. Half price whole home at the weekends between 11am and 4pm too.

Works out much cheaper than IOG as day rate is significantly lower (in my area at least).

Presumably your contract has recently been extended? Christmas temp that got kept on? Last month you would have been processed as a leaver and all of that holiday you accumulated over the time you were working was paid out. This would show on your January payslip as outstanding holiday but as a positive balance (paid to you) This month after your contract has been extended they took that money back from you and returned your holiday balance. The negative balance this month should be the same as the positive balance last month, and you will have holiday available to book on t&a. Perfectly normal when contracts are extended after the myhr cutoff.

Payday this month is the 9th (Friday) so yes if you are with monzo you’ll get paid at 4pm on Thursday

Amazing, this works great! I slightly modified your solution, used the homebridge-schedule plugin to trigger the automation every minute, this uses a home assistant webhook automation to store the temperature as an input number and then a template sensor to display and graph it. Thank you!

Can’t answer your question I’m afraid, but how do you get HomePod sensor data in HA? I’ve tried to set it up in the past but had no luck.

Should be on or around the 10th of September

I know it’s not the solution you’re going for, but I use this

https://github.com/ghaberek/omada-api

A basic python wrapper for the api, which I use to run a script twice a day with cron.

Not as nice as a native solution, but it works great.

Perfectly normal. Usually just a packaging error or similar.

Probably a bit of both, food getting stuck and a weak stepper motor. Also 9v batteries are very low capacity usually around 200mA so will drop voltage very quickly. Paired with a voltage regulator will cause problems.

With Bluetooth on its own, no. You’d have to repair with each device, however if both are signed into the same iCloud account, you can use handoff and universal keyboard (I can’t remember exactly what it’s called) and one keyboard and mouse can control both devices.

Edit: universal control

I’ve got a 3.12” OLED SPI display connected to a raspberry pi. Works great

I reckon it’s the font

There should be a little grub screw on the underside of the heat block in front of the nozzle.

Yes but you won’t get a sign up bonus. I started with BA blue card and just got a gold card the other week.

This, and that’s an RGB LED so (as long as it’s connected correctly) each button will light the LED a different colour.

What is the ESP01 adapter board? Is it a logic shifter? The 01S operates at 3.3v so you need to reduce the voltage from the tx pin of the uno to 3.3v.

Assuming you haven’t messed with any firmware on the esp you should be able to communicate with it via AT commands in the serial monitor. The Uno only has 1 hardware serial port so you will have to use software serial to communicate with the esp and use digital pins on the uno instead of the hardware tx/rx pins you’re using at the moment .

Create a simple sketch that forwards anything from hardware serial (usb to pc serial monitor) to software serial (esp) open the serial monitor and type AT and you should see OK printed to the serial monitor. You may have to change from new line to newline and carriage return.

However, the esp01s is very basic and will struggle with large web requests unless you flash a different firmware (even then it has very little memory so will still struggle). You’re better off using an esp32 or an Arduino r4 with WiFi built in.

Bottom two are copper VDSL, which can be used for (slow) internet and landline, however it’s being phased out. The top UFO box is an ONT (optical network terminal) and is used for FTTP (fibre to the premises) and will give you fast internet. Although it doesn’t look like it’s from any of the ‘standard’ ISP’s. Typically you would just need a wireless gateway/router to plug into the ONT with Ethernet and that will give you WiFi. (Not called a modem, that’s for modulation/demodulation which is for converting between digital and analogue signals for your phone line)

You will have to figure out what ISP’s are available in your area, a simple check on their websites will work, then you should be able to connect their provided gateway straight to your ‘UFO’. If you already have an ISP then you simply need a wireless gateway.

Opened my account last August, got the invite email 2 weeks ago and was offered 18 months interest free with £1,300 credit limit. Don’t use chase as my main current account only for the odd spend here and there. Didn’t take the cc offer because it’s nothing special.

Pay>cash>type in amount to pay with cash(not using the presets)>enter>credit/debit>enter> customer pays remaining amount by card>cash float opens.

Don’t use the presets because the transaction will go straight through. If you type the wrong amount of cash you can use void tender button.

I developed a plugin to solve this exact problem. I haven’t touched it in a while but it still works (although I haven’t tested it on homebridge v5 but no reason it shouldn’t work)

TuyaLAN no logs

Make sure you’ve added all public and local addresses to Plex custom urls. Otherwise when you’re on your local network traffic will still be routed through Cloudflare.

For example mine are: http:192.168.0.3:32400,https://plex.mydomain.co.uk:443,http://plex.mydomain.co.uk:80

Cloudflare tunnels is working great for me, but if you want a method without violating any TOS, you could look into hosting a reverse proxy on a VPS and connecting to your home network with wireguard/tailscale/headscale. This means you don’t need a public IP/the ability to open port 443 and can still publicly host services. Only problem is you will probably have to pay for a VPS, you could try oracle free tier but they are known to close accounts without telling you why.

A mesh probably wouldn’t help with interference much. The only benefit they have is an ‘optimise’ feature where they move to different channels based on which has the lowest interference. I would keep your existing router in place, but disable wireless and operate it in modem mode. Mesh devices aren’t great running as a router. This also means you keep Ethernet ports and reduce the need for a switch. If you have an existing wired connecting from your router to your office you can use it as a wired backhaul from mesh to mesh. I’ve used the TP-Link deco system, it works fine and was significantly better than my ISP router alone, but I’m now looking at installing wired access points around my house and moving away from a mesh.