u/krsdev

The people in that house: Wtf someone stole our record player!

I got some really old at the time 286 with two 5.25" disk drives running DOS, no idea which version, and a dot matrix printer, from my grandparents. I was like 10 at the time and IIRC that was my first own computer anyway. This was in the late 90s lol. My dad had bought a much newer PC that I used as well at the time, but this one was mine. I wish I remembered the specs but to be honest I'm not even sure it actually was a 286; it might have been even older.

Posting to say I've had the same issue since the last driver update as well. In my case all my monitors don't receive a signal after I turn then on sometimes. I have a 4070. Edit: Also on KDE Wayland.

GNOME giving people a choice? Isn't that against their policies?

(Just a joke, put down the pitchforks)

I got here after searching for "kde plasma power & battery -1%" after experiencing the same issue. I run Arch and did a package upgrade today, and started getting these notifications afterwards. Both with my wireless K400+ keyboard, and my G603 mouse. Both from logitech. Wonder what changed. I did not update the kernel, as I run a custom one (xanmod) and was too lazy to wait for it to compile. So it shouldn't be related to that.

I didn't notice that it was on disconnect until I read your post but it makes sense now with the pattern that I was seeing, only happening some time after last using the devices. I even changed the batteries in the keyboard to be sure lol.

I'm on KDE Plasma 6.7.5 currently, with KDE Frameworks 6.30.0.

Edit: I also have Solaar installed and that seem to show the correct battery levels even when the devices are "offline".

On this laptop I'm typing on it's 17 seconds, but on my much beefier desktop PC it's 37 seconds. Bootup time is highly dependent on the motherboard firmware mostly tbh, then how many drives you have plugged in as well as things like how many USB devices etc. That's a very fast firmware time you have OP. My laptop takes 6.6s there and my desktop 16.1s. FWIW my laptop is an ASUS and my desktop PC has an MSI motherboard.

Nice work! May it live a long stable life after this fix.

I accidentally destroyed one of these when I attempted to remove the chip without a PLCC extractor. Or rather I had one but the socket was one of those with really really thin grooves for the "teeth" of the extractor, so it didn't fit. Since there are holes underneath it on the motherboard I thought I'd just push a pencil through. But the corresponding holes in the original socket were much narrower than the holes in the motherboard (and the pencil), so it snapped the plastic. Luckily nothing else was damaged so it was just a matter of replacing it.

How did no one mention yet how the middle lady and guy waiter are conjoined twins?

Yeah same. I think they noticed the traffic and was like wait a minute lol. It's still accessible on Archive:

https://web.archive.org/web/20260816113942/https://www.cs.earlham.edu/~jeremiah/linux-pix/linux-logo.html

is the water tank enclosing the quarters?

Ideally you open up the cartridges and use a standard vinyl eraser to rub off the dirt from the contacts directly, and then clean with 99% isopropyl alcohol afterwards. But if you don't have a way to open them (you need special bits) you can use some isopropyl alcohol on a qtip and go to town until the qtips stop coming out discolored. It's better than nothing.

For the cartridge slot it's a bit trickier but one thing I see recommended is to wrap a microfiber cloth (the ones for glasses, not the ones with longer fibers) around a credit card, douse one edge of it in isopropyl alcohol, then insering and removing it from the slot a bunch of times. Or just douse the pins of a cartridge in isopropyl and insert and remove it.

Basically isopropyl alcohol is your friend in these circumstances and any time you need to clean electronics.

Yup I had this issue develop gradually on one of my units as well. Looked just like the picture with wavy interference patterns. I took the opportunity to swap out all the caps on mine while I was at it, but I think it's caused by the big main filter cap near the voltage regulator so should be enough to replace that. Issue cleared right up after I did it. A somewhat rare example of replacing caps actually fixing an issue lol.

Yeah I have since gotten taller feet for the turntable so there's a good 3.5cm or so of clearance. Ideally I'd have them separate entirely but unfortunately I don't have space for it. I may install a shelf in the wall for the turntable to sit on because it is very sensitive to footsteps at the moment.

I always wondered how did these actually work? How do they get the picture to display on the CRT?

I know that pain. Personally I switched to GOTEK drives in those systems for the convenience. Of course, that's not a solution if you have actual disks that need to be backed up. :(

I think the "login screen" is just supposed to be a callback to the software error messages/crashes on the Amiga computers, known as Guru Meditations.

https://i.ytimg.com/vi/VLVbLo2Sx28/maxresdefault.jpg

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guru_Meditation

I think they meant 3.5" floppy disk drives, but it's not exactly clear so maybe not.

I think the game had a troubled development, and then they ran out of time and money and had to ship something. The game was delayed quite a bit at one point for example. Maybe the 6-8h was true at one point but all the cuts made it shorter. The price should have been lowered when this became evident though.

I don't think they cut things for the purpose of putting in the DLC though. Maybe there are some ideas that were revisited in the DLC, but I just think they ran out of time for the main game.

Yes.

If you want to go down that road, The Retro Channel just had a series of three videos where he's fixing several SNES units, replacing bad PPUs included. Requires some good tools and skills to do of course. And replacement parts which is probably the most difficult hurdle as they don't exactly grow on trees.

https://youtu.be/NpXYR57sVl4?si=anPUTIUgKXtmSjSt

This is the one to get OP. Don't bother with other batteries these days.

Yeah try pushing/squeezing on the edge above or below the line. It has fixed TVs with similar issues in the past. It may not last however.

Honestly I think codes shouldn't become invalid even when redeemed. They should just keep working. Of course with the requirement that they get unregistered before use again. That would at least allow us to resell digital movies second hand once disc based media becomes obsolete (look at the Playstation announcement the other week. It'll happen to movies too).

You can also calibrate it by eye by using the weight on the tonearm. There are videos on how to do so on youtube if you look. But a scale certainly takes the guesswork out of it completely, and are cheap enough to warrant getting one IMO.

I have a similar set of accessories and it's served me well so far. Maybe I'll get one of those stylus brushes but I've so far just used the disc brush and gently brushed it with that.

Also agreed about cables. When I switched out the old DIN audio cable on my TD 165 I initially looked at cables at hifi audio retailers. Things like a simple ground cable were sold for €50+! That's just crazy I thought, and ended up using a random 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable I had lying around for that purpose and just cut off the plugs and soldered it in on one end and made a little loop on the other end to attach to the preamp. For the RCA cables I similarly took some decent but cheap ones I had around and cut to a decent lenght, probably a bit too long, and soldered them in. Plugged it all in and it sounds absolutely great.