u/ksj

My AVR has that option, but it only applies to video that’s passing through the AVR. It won’t display anything if the video source is an internal TV app, for example.

Someone in the thread above from last year said it happens with their Hisense as well. It might just be a Google TV thing. It’s really strange that using Bluetooth as the output option will show the numerical indicator, but not HDMI ARC/eARC.

I have found that, when this issue occurs, changing the “Peak Brightness” setting to “Off” will keep the brightness at the same level. This leads me to believe that the TV effectively disables the Peak Brightness setting if it’s been activated too long or the TV gets too hot.

When this happened to me, I was watching a TV show in Dolby Vision (‘Atypical’, visually just a standard single-camera dramedy, nothing exceptionally bright or challenging) when I realized it was much darker than usual. The scene was at nighttime, so I thought maybe it was just how they wanted it to look. I checked through the settings expecting something to be turned down, but found nothing. That’s when I played with the Peak Brightness setting and found that the current image was effectively the same as having Peak Brightness set to “Off” or “Low”. A few minutes later, the brightness raised again.

I recall a review or two (Rtings and/or Tom’s Guide, maybe?) that indicated the peak brightness couldn’t be sustained for terribly long but it was “unlikely to be noticed with real-world content” or something to that effect.

I’ll admit I’ve only noticed it the one time, but I’ve only had the TV for a couple weeks. Hopefully it doesn’t occur frequently. I have the TV mounted to the wall; perhaps the airflow is more limited than the reviewers’ setups and that of people who don’t experience it and it gets too hot faster.

On another topic, has anyone had concerns with color accuracy? All the reviews said it was generally pretty good out of the box, but mine felt very green. I had to turn down the offset and gain for the Green values in pretty much every picture mode (less in Dolby Vision, though). I’m worried my panel is poor and isn’t representing the color spaces well. I’d love a way to compare it with displays that people seem to be generally well-calibrated like a MacBook or iPhone or something (not that they are necessarily perfect, but they seem to be pretty consistent). It would be great if there was some way to have them both display the same exact color value (a pure red, then green, then blue or something) and then change the TV’s color calibration until they visually match. Someone more familiar with color theory than myself would need to figure out the ideal RGB values for various comparison points, though.

You can copy the Photos.sqlite file from the phone and using the tool with the --library option.

• Install iMazing
• Plug the phone in to the Mac via a USB cable. If prompted, select "Trust this device"
• Start iMazing
• Expand the iPhone icon in the left panel in the iMazing window
• Scroll down and selectFile System from the list in the left panel under the iPhone icon
• Open the Media folder
• Open the PhotoData folder
• Find the file Photos.sqlite and copy it to your Mac by dragging it from the iMazing window. There may also be files named Photos.sqlite-shm and Photos.sqlite-wal in the same folder. Copy these as well.
• Open the Terminal and run the following command: osxphotos query --library /path/to/Photos.sqlite [any other query options]

I used your instructions to get access to my phone's photo library, then did the following to narrow down the results to identify the image that was stuck. I was worried about needing to pay for iMazing, but it fortunately allows you to export 100 files without paying, and I only needed to export the 3 files you indicated.

After running the query you indicated, I wasn't able to search for photos in iOS' Photos app by using the UUID or even the filename; this may be due to my phone not having any remaining storage, so it keeps deleting the indexing for my photo library and making nothing searchable. Big pain.

Anyway, I ran the query you posted to get the list of unsynced images, and there were quite a few. As I looked through them, almost all of them were shared via SMS. So I updated the query to the following so I could navigate to the images by date (rather than search by name) and to see where the images came from (so I could determine quickly if it was SMS or elsewhere, rather than looking through each result):

osxphotos query --library <PATH TO IMAZING EXPORTED FILES>/Photos.sqlite --not-incloud --quiet --print ">>UUID: {uuid} | Name: {photo.original_filename} | Keywords: {keyword} | Labels: {label} | Text: {detected_text} | Created: {created} | Imported By: {imported_by.id}"

Using {photo.original_filename} gave me the file extension. I was interested in this because my phone said "Syncing 1 item" rather than "1 photo" or "1 video", which made me think it was some weird non-image/video file that was in my library. But it turned out to be a regular image.

I added the Keywords, Labels, and Detected Text in an attempt to make searching more effective, but they were all blank in my case (again, no index).

The {Imported_by.id} value was critical. For shared messages, the value was com.apple.MobileSMS. For the unsynced image, the values was com.apple.camera.

After finding the photo in iOS' Photos app by navigating to the photos with the same Created date and looking for the filename, I confirmed it hadn't synced via the little cloud icon in the Photos app's Information pane.

To get the image to sync, I adjusted the timestamp of the image (simply within iOS' Photos app) by 1 minute, then adjusted it back (by clicking "Revert"). This was sufficient to get it to sync. Other people may need export the photo to their Files app and reimport (and delete the unsynced version from within Photos).

Thank you for the instructions you posted and for the tool you made!

Not yet. I did recently discover that phone calls ring to the laptop while the lid is closed as well, which has a lot more online discussion (I assume it’s a lot more noticeable than read receipts). I haven’t had enough time to really dig into yet, but the next area I intend to investigate is changing settings via the PMSET command in Terminal. I’ve got these tabs open, but whether they prove useful is yet to be seen:

https://ss64.com/mac/pmset.html

https://www.macworld.com/article/673295/how-to-use-macbook-with-lid-closed-stop-closed-mac-sleeping.html

Another thing I need to look at is Handoff. My job requires a Management Profile that blocks Handoff on my phone, but I wonder if there’s some unusual behavior happening as a result if I still have it enabled on the computer (literally just haven’t checked yet).

If you ever find a solution, please let me know.

Incidentally, this deck seems to do pretty poorly against the current Zygarde EX/Himonchan EX event drop deck, which surprised me after I’d used it successfully in the Random battles.

This deck managed to get me the 10, so thanks for posting it. I had a few false starts of 3-5 wins before losing (especially when I was letting it auto-play, since the CPU never wants to leave Entei out front without ever giving energy), but I finally got a string of 10 consecutive. There were a couple rounds that were dicey and 100% came down to luck with the next card draw being the only thing that could save me after I was sure I was done. One of the rounds was against double Oricorio, which was not fun. And if you’re unlucky enough to get no Enteis and no Charmeleons and no Professor or Pokeballs, you’re just toast.

My tactic was basically: Get Entei out front. If you can charge him with at least one Charmeleon ability, it’s worth getting to 60 damage. On the off chance you have a discarded energy and 2 charmeleons, it’s probably worth getting him to 4 energy to do 120 damage, but probably not if the opponent has a Mega that can withstand two hits (like if they have a healer or you can only do 60+120 before you die and its not enough); if you’re up against something like that, just try to keep your Entei alive long enough to get 2 energy on your Charizard and 2 flame patches in your hand. If at all possible, don’t put yourself in a position where they can Cyrus you. I always liked to keep the second Entei on the bench with full health in case they use a Sabrina.

I don’t think I ever used the non-EX Charizard, but it came in handy when using May and I can see how it would be critical against Oricorio. I also questioned why you’d choose one Charizard X and one Charizard Y, but there were instances where having a 3-energy attack was my saving grace and other times when I felt I couldn’t take the 50 damage per attack.

It would be cool to get a whole bunch of free stuff, but I didn’t have that shine dust and hourglasses yesterday and I still don’t have them today. So I can’t say I’m too broken up about it. It’s not like they took them from my inventory to give to new players or anything.

You now get them after collecting a certain number of cards for the corresponding pack. But the display boards were only like 15 tickets each, so it’s not like it’s a huge loss. The others would have been earned after collecting enough tokens from Themed Collections, which again are pretty much just from opening packs/getting all the cards.

In other words, new users don’t just get all that for free. They have to collect a bunch of cards over a ton of different packs which would be pretty challenging at this point. And OP is out like… 300 shop tickets over the course of a year and a half. I don’t know, just doesn’t seem like a big deal.

To the contrary, PS5 disc drives are not paired to the console at the time of purchase and cannot be used. It’s not until you connect to PSN that you are given the opportunity to pair the console. The same goes if you need to factory reset the console at any point: the disc drive will be inoperable until connecting to their online services. But if you don’t accept the TOS, you are forever prohibited from using said disc drive, which means you can’t use it to play games offline.

There’s also the issue that any digital “purchase” comes with the implicit requirement that you accept any and all future TOS changes or they hold it hostage.

I really don’t understand how anyone could support such practices. It’s indefensible.

Just gave it a try. Seems to be pretty good, but there’s a $7 charge before you can export any photos. I think that’s actually a pretty fair price for what the app seems to do, but I’m hesitant to spend any money before knowing the output image is still full resolution. That was one of my main issues with GroupShot; the functionality worked great, but the final image was like 600KB and any attempts to zoom in definitely reflected that. I worry that this app will also have poor exports, but have no way to confirm.

Vue is exclusively for PS4 and is therefore not directly relevant to this subreddit, right?

Edit: I think I’m an idiot. I’m pretty sure I swapped LuaC0re and Lapse in my head at some point. So LuaC0re is simply Userland, same as Y2JB, right? And with Y2JB supporting versions through 12.00, this new Star Wars exploit is really only advantageous for 12.02-12.40?

And while this may not be true, I suspect a Kernel exploit is likely to arrive on 11.00 before 12.40, so probably in my best interest to just sit where I’m at and keep waiting. Especially since it seems Poopsploit only works up to 12.00. So my best hope right now is for Y2JB to be chained to Poopsploit. Is that theoretically possible, or is Poopsploit intrinsically linked to Lua or a disc drive?

I’m still confused about everyone talking about how the disc version of Star Wars is required when Gezine’s own GitHub lists “disc or digital” as the requirement.

Side question: Are NetC/NetControl/Poopsploit all the same thing?

Original post: I currently have a PS5 Digital on 11.00.

In Gezine’s GitHub for LuaC0re, it says it requires “Disc or digital version of Star Wars Racer Revenge USA (CUSA03474) or EU (CUSA03492) region”.

I see that game for PS4 listed in the PSN store.

My question is: would it better to wait on 11.00 and hope for NetC being chained to Y2JB, or should I upgrade to the current 12.40 and purchase and download Star Wars Revenge Racer from the digital store, then go offline?

Another wrinkle is that I’m set up to game share, so I actually need to be online in order to launch any game I’ve purchased, because my console is not set as my Home Console or whatever. I could probably revoke my game sharing and set my own console as default, then move it back to the other console at a later time (once I’m Jailbroken, which I’m hoping will offer a way to launch my games without network authentication).

What is?

Man, that reads like a credit card reward point system. “You get 2x points at select dining establishments (which rotate on a monthly basis), but you get a 3x modifier if there’s a full moon in the next 17 hours. Groceries get you 1.5x points, and the point cap is doubled if you order those groceries while on an airplane.”

Just nonsense.

You’re arguing semantics when it’s very clear from context what OP meant. Considering the game has never banned any cards from ranked play, you should know that’s not what OP was talking about.

First of all, nothing has rotated out. Not sure why you said that about Rayquaza.

Rayquaza has only ever been available thus far as Promo cards. There was one standard Rayquaza and two versions of Rayquaza EX (one normal and one full-holo, both with the same moves and stats).

By “rotated out”, they mean that these cards were available for a limited time and are no longer possible to get in any form. Rayquaza and Rayquaza EX are not available in any packs that can currently be opened.

but will it have the same cards though?

Good question. And to your point, it does say “These packs will be returning”, not “This pack will be returning”. Which makes me think you may be right.

Ultimately, my only gripe with this pack is that the Dex isn’t bi-directional with the older ones. They are bi-directional for everything else (missions, themed collections, decks, “New” flag on opening packs, “owned” flags for Wonder Pick), but expressly not bi-directional for the Dex.

I just barely got caught up with all Dexs and missions and stuff yesterday (aside from Wisdom and Secluded Springs, which I’m still working on). And I was excited when I opened the app this morning and saw this new pack. But telling me I would need to collect all those same cards again? It really just takes a lot of joy out of things for me, which is a bummer. I liked this game.

I know it’s just a dumb game and doesn’t actually matter, but that’s true of most things. It was fun to spend 5 minutes/day to open packs and make trades as I crossed things off the list. And now it seems very unsustainable and unachievable, and that makes me not want to try. Why keep climbing a mountain that will always be out of reach? And I know that the day I choose to not open my packs is the day that I never open the app again. Everyone I know already quit the game ages ago. I’d probably quit today, too, but I’m hoping the company decides to change the Dex to bi-directional and clarifies if this exact Deluxe pack will be returning or if they’ll be different packs each time.

The “News” post about it specifies that the pack will be back at some point in the future, but it will be unavailable until that time. And then presumably will again be a time-limited pack when it does come back.

I updated both devices and have restarted them multiple times, but the issue persists. :(

Update: I had opened iMessage on the laptop yesterday and put it in the background to see if it would mark the texts as Read while working on the laptop, and it wasn’t doing it. I then closed the lid, and it continued to not do it.

I woke up this morning, without having opened the laptop since yesterday, and the issue is occurring. Any texts that “Jack” sends me immediately get marked as Read, and my phone doesn’t vibrate and his text doesn’t appear in the list of missed texts, and there is no “unread” indicator on his text thread.

Hmm, I just tried that and they didn’t seem to get marked as Read. I’m going to have to sit and experiment with it, because it’s definitely happening in certain circumstances. When it first started happening, I thought it was because iMessage was in focus when I closed the lid, but it happened even with iMessage in the background after that point. But when you mentioned your experience, it occurred to me that I’m not sure if the issue happens while I’m actively using the laptop.

I’ll need to play around with this a bit more, see if I can narrow it down.

Thanks for your response!

That’s not what I asked.

The FBI, during Biden’s administration, confirmed that it was a bullet that struck Trump’s ear.

What incentive would the FBI have to lie? Like you said, getting shot with a bullet would whip Trump’s base into a frenzy just months before the election. So if he actually got hit with shrapnel from a teleprompter, why wouldn’t the FBI say it was shrapnel?

For anyone claiming it was shrapnel, you must also be claiming that the FBI is lying. What incentive would Biden’s FBI have for perpetuating a lie that only benefits Trump?

The alternative is that people who argue it was teleprompter shrapnel must know more than the FBI does after a thorough investigation, and they must also have an explanation for why none of the teleprompters were damaged.

I’m absolutely happy to listen to anyone who can address these points. I have no dog in this race. If what I’ve said and linked is wrong for any reason, I’d love to know.

I can’t find any images of a broken teleprompter.

In fact, this article includes photos of very much in-tact teleprompters.

I an happy to be proven wrong if you have photos of a teleprompter from that day showing any damage, though it still doesn’t address the FBI’s official report. What incentive would there be for them to falsify the events?

PopSocket has grips that can passthrough a MagSafe charge?

I have a cheap adhesive wallet pouch with a metal finger loop on mine, which I got from some work event. Any similar wallet case, where the cards simply sit at the back of the phone, will be incompatible with the current implementation of MagSafe.

Maybe when digital government IDs are widespread, or if Apple switched to a MagSafe that is more like the MacBook version that attaches where the current USB-C port is, it won’t matter. But mobile wallets have reduced my need to carry an actual wallet with many cards, and I’ve since found that a small wallet on my phone to carry my ID and a single credit card has been very convenient.

I think Apple should have made the new MacBook MagSafe a bit wider, wide enough that the pins would sit on either side of a USB-C port, and have a dual-port on the iPhone. Would be nice to share the same MagSafe between my devices, and the timing would have been really great because they finally brought back the laptop MagSafe at around the same time USB-C was added. Seems like a missed opportunity. And we finally got to a point where everything charges via USB-C, and then Apple switched to shipping MagSafe with their MacBooks, lol.