u/lightfork

Not sure if I believe those numbers. The temperatures seem wrong, and the board should not draw over 100W really.

Are you able to test with a different PSU? I would test that first since it happens with every graphics card.

I'm sure any method works fine, that is just the optimal spread pattern for the die layout. Their claim is that it is much more important to have a good interface directly above the core(s) than it is to have the metal cap covered with compound from corner to corner.

Arctic silver recommends a vertical line for Ryzen CPU

http://www.arcticsilver.com/amd_application_method.html#

If no bulbs work and you detect voltage with the switch on, chances are it is a problem with the a neutral connection or wire.

In reality, a fuse is an over current device. It protects against short circuit or current overload conditions. The intent of that fuse is to protect your power lead and device, since from my understanding your ring circuits may possibly offer excess amounts of current (ie, 32A).

A common surge protector uses something called a varistor, which is a voltage dependent element. Often the protector incorporates MOV protection in combination with a fuse due to the voltage clamping aspect.

Although you may not see a fuse on our plugs here in North America, this does not mean that the device does not contain an internal input fuse, comparable to your enhanced 3A fuse protection. The reason we can pull this off, is first we limit the circuit to 15A, then secondly the power lead is able to handle this current. Here it would be illegal to power a 15A device on a 30A circuit since we do not use plug fuses. Also, the fuse may be hidden inside because we do not want someone to easily replace a blown 3A fuse with a 13A fuse.

Electricity behaves the same universally. Do not rely on fuses or circuit breakers or GFCI/RCD's for surge protection, although in some circumstances the fuse will seem to react accordingly.

Yes my mistake, I mean if supplied higher* voltage

Did you call your utility company? I would be reluctant to using a half failed CT transformer, if something happens to the service grounded neutral causing it to open, you will have 240V on the 120V outlet.

Also to keep in mind is when something like a resistive heater is supplied lower higher voltage, it is compensated by higher current (ohms law). Excess current may damage or cause fire. So double check with your utility.

These effects are not common knowledge, since electrical code eliminates them. The solution is quite simple, which is to use a dedicated circuit for fridges, freezers or anything with a compressor. Most importantly having the electronics on a separate circuit.

As you indicate this might not be possible, you could attempt to filter this problem but it can still be quite difficult. A typical surge protector is likely not able to eliminate this problem, because the surge is not very large.

In a similar situation, I was trying to eliminate momentary monitor blank outs from a chest freezer. I used an oscilloscope to capture the transient that can pass through an AC to DC converter (regardless of surge protector). Example here. The yellow line indicates my expected 5V DC signal, where the blip you see is the transient passing through when the compressor kicks on. This is when the monitor would blank out. When the compressor switches off, the effect was much worse, and of course the monitor would blank out again.

I cannot promise you will solve this issue, however if you wanted to test a solution I have not yet tried, you could first try using this: Furman Power Conditioner (SS6B)

For more money, you could also try using: Furman PST-6

I ended up not using the freezer anymore, but my last test was going to be to see how good my line interactive UPS would work (APC BR1000MS).

So depending on how much you can afford to throw at the problem, try one of these options. If you do decide one and it fixes it, please let me know.

Thanks for clearing that one up. I assumed they were both steel belt design.

I try to ease the accelerator, both on and off. Rarely do I hammer it enough to cross 3000 rpm. I understood that the belt (made up of individual links) can basically destruct into its individual pieces. My thinking, if it moves too rapidly in the CVT function from aggressive driving by people used to geared transmissions.

Funny you mention, I just lost my power steering on my 2010 Altima that I was using as a winter car. My plan was to use this fluid with UV die to waste on determining the leak point on that. At 314000 km and the transmission was still running great!

Yes the transmission has a lousy track record, but who was driving them? To me, they should be strong for the 2.5 and weak for the 3.5L engines as I hear they use the same. With that generation, they had have sport mode with ratchet shift - I always figured people either abused this too much or they drove in sport mode letting the computer shift.

Yes I get what you mean now, there is a plastic screen with a bit of a cup in the center and the fluid just goes to the top of that cup area. The basket would hold a lot more and filling it can run overfull quickly.

I always get hung-up on the idea of "lifetime" fluid, is that the same timeframe as infinite or when the warranty ends? Because surely no fluid could last forever.

But after I googled how low power steering fluid lasts (in general), silly me believed I should change it sooner than later since it seemed worn out.

Thanks for the write up.

Reattach hose, turn your steering wheel all the way to the RIGHT, and go to your fluid reservoir and pour the GENUINE NISSAN EPS FLUID slowly. Reason why you want to be slow, is you don’t want to over fill the reservoir. Very easy to do considering you can’t see into the reservoir.

On this car, my reservoir has a dipstick built into the cap if that changes anything regarding the over fill comment.

I was just going to pull the reservoir, two exchanges took one OEM bottle. But if you know a better way?

Yes, it was a small wurring noise and it felt like a soft spot on my first turn. Any time after this the steering was completely fine.

Regarding the fluid itself, I mentioned I used Idemitsu fully synthetic fluid. If you look at it, you will notice it is clear similar to oil, and not like the red ATF style fluid in my 2010 Altima which seems a lot more heavier. They didn't seem to care about this point either.

My guess is that you have insufficient signal strength. The signal could be fringe, only strong enough to show its name. If the signal is strong, then you likely have mistyped the password.

If it is a signal strength issue, ideas to improve this would be:

• Use a mobile phone with wireless hotspot enabled (make a easy password like all 1's)
• Relocate the wireless access point closer to car if possible or,
• Relocate the car closer to access point

Each scenario is different, but most of the time only the PSU takes the hit on the AC side and normally doesn't pass through to the DC side preserving the components. If the surge was on the ground wire then there is a chance the components went bad. All the ones I've seen the PSU swap solves the problem.

Also inspect the sockets of the PCIE cable. The tab should lock it into place when fully engaged.

Having air in the system will damage the pump prematurely so it would be best to solve it before the pump has impeller or bearing damage.

It is ideal to have the radiator on the lid if you can. But more importantly, it looks like your pump hoses point up? Rotate the CPU block 180 degrees so the hoses point down (or 90 degrees to be sideways).

Gamers nexus made a great video about AIOs.

edit: Also make sure you are running the NZXT CAM software as the hardware relies on this.

Good to hear. I am not aware of any method of flipping the fan. You would have to replace the fans. There are fan grills you can buy that secure to the mounting screws, and for aesthetic you can buy aftermarket customized laser cuts on etsy.

Normally the exhaust side has support bars, but this one seems backwards (maybe for aesthetics) because based on the fan blades it looks to be intake.

Before making changes, OP can confirm the arrows, or hold a piece of paper near the front too see if it sticks then at the rear to see if it pushes away.

If you are looking at the BR1000MS, it has a 6th plug on the top of the surge only side. You should have enough room for everything, especially if the plugs are not polarized you can orient the top two adapters upwards.

It is also software driven hardware, do you have the CAM app installed? https://nzxt.com/software/cam

From the photo your ESD strap is good, 1 meg ohm

If you move the probe around it may generate false readings, especially if it bounces, because it will cause it to "auto range" where it finds the suitable multiplier (it is currently in the M (meg) or 1 million multiplier). The meter tip needs to be firmly attached during the reading.

The wire in photo 2 is a thermocouple for taking direct temperature measurements

As mentioned you don't really need it but as long as you handle the parts by their edges you should be fine.

Not a good idea to upgrade and repair at the same time when you are unsure of the issue. Make sure to replace your PSU first to ensure that solves the problem. Then to have best results, update your BIOS to the latest revision and finally replace CPU.