u/mdoom23

Still works!

Howdy

Not your question at all, but I do really like the Eryone petg-cf. Often bulk deals of 10-12 per roll on all the colors.

Unsure which brand ASA you using, but in your H2C crank that chamber temp to 65 for ASA.

If textured pei plate, maybe even 105 bed temp, with enough initial layer expansion on your supports.

Although ASA works great on a cool plate. I still print at same temps though but supports stick great on my kdeavi.

Regardless if going for nice finish you're looking at post processing. Some wet sanding and or even vaporsmoothing are huge advantages of ASA/abs.

This was Eryone silk gold. They also have an ultra silk

https://preview.redd.it/y194rxbenpuh1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=be07df1a652ca8191ee7324597be8324261d4c17

110? Wow. Should be more than enough. What's your luck at? Boost gold to boost luck. 5.1 tree goes a long ways

Partially clogged nozzle contributing to heat creep? May be worth doing cold pull too or swapping nozzle

Looks like heat creep to me. PLA with the enclosure shut cooks the filament before it gets to the hotend, so it oozes everywhere and the layers don't really stick. Try it with the door cracked or the top glass off, and drop the nozzle to like 210 while you're at it, 220 is kinda warm for that stuff I think. But I haven't personally used to sunlu PLA+2

Also run the calibration on the left nozzle by itself, it doesn't share with the Vortek side. And 1% infill on that shape is a ton of travel over open air, bump it to 5-10% and it'll have way less room to string.

Overall best to run the basic calibrations for each filament brand and nozzle type.

Ugh same. I have two episodes left but no desire to finish. Everything was just so bad. Writing is off the walls in latest season

Rider sized nozzle: 2 Push nozzle: 3

On the screen for nozzles, just click right side, and hopefully that tells it to move blocker over to the left. Then go back to doing whatever you were for loading.

Or was this happening mid print?

Doing game capture or screen/window capture? Try just a window capture, might have better luck.

Just giving more examples. This is Eryone silk gold. They also have an "ultra silk".

https://preview.redd.it/uk0dwd1bg2sh1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=02d143a9b6ca3a92a89695d5ebaa51e0b01e4bc9

Happen to have a cool plate/extra sticky? Works great with ASA

Wow, this worked!

Ohhh what's this fix? I literally came home today from work to my H2C not turning back on. I'm all for hopeful for easy fix and not AP failure

Lots of ASA. I think I do 55 or 60 chamber? And 105 print bed. No issues but I go through all the filament calibrations

Dude, good work! I love polymaker asa and vaporsmoothing, never done it on small pieces though. Interesting idea on the varnish afterwards too! Thanks for sharing!

I have no clue what I'd use this for. I don't need it at all. Hardly ever use TPU.

... I bought 3 lol

Congrats! Looks good! Keep that H2C busy!

I love this model! Finished my matte one earlier this week! The titan3d models have all been really well done!

I like to do several in ASA and smooth them, but did PLA for Spidey

https://preview.redd.it/k8on6dosuqkh1.jpeg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d18ef12ca92d019f21d874a493616357ba7eb3bc

When I got my printer I got 2 four packs of glue to be safe. Used once. Never again lol

Save your sanity. Don't respool!

But yeah, spool locks you should look into too. I think I lost 3 rolls in total before I truly learned lol But no issues now. I've read instructions, and use spool locks

Oh yeah, loading and unloading on the u1, while easy, annoys the piss out of me. Compared to my 3 ams + 3 HT setup on my H2C 😂

It's an interesting use case, I got my h2c first. U1 came second. For PLA, multicolor, u1 is fast. Purely because filament swapping is fast. Way faster than H2C. Talking like 5-7 seconds vs 30 per swap.

But unlike most in the snapmaker echo chamber subreddit lol, I'll honestly say H2C is a faster printer when printing. So it's purely a function of how many swaps a print has. One/two color prints, I use my bambus. 4 color, u1. And more color, or other stuff like I do a lot of ASA all on H2C.

I'm intrigued about multicolor TPU on the u1, but haven't had a reason to actually do it.

U1 is cheap built, snorca is not great, but for the price it's amazing entry into tool changers. I have no regrets about getting it.

I highly recommend H2C + U1. If money no object. I'm happy with that setup. Can handle all the multi color/material as well as all the fancy filament types.