u/moderately_adult

Tactile’s rockwall, James brand (despite being relatively overpriced imo), maybe kunwu depending on your taste, I really like some of rockstead’s offerings in this department if you want to dish out cash. Sebenza I would say is probably a lot of people’s “less is more” knife and I’ve held onto my seb even when I switched over to customs. Other people have made a lot of good suggestions below as well

Frog is probably right unless I’ve gone crazy, I have two dozuki saws and I’m not sure on the size but I found replacements on Amazon and my local rockler, they have different teeth count sometimes but just make sure you get the right size and you can smack the edge of the spine to knock out the blade

Thanks! Had a lot of fun doing it, spent a lot of time gluing 1/8 mdf sheets together but I’m pretty happy with the results

If you’re talking about how the flat seems brighter than the chamfered sides my amateur ass is gonna go on a limb and probably say it’s just how the grain is, I notice that when I chamfer an edge that it tends to take more oil/finish and end up a bit darker than the flat

I misremembered and forgot it was autos they had a length restriction on according to AKTI, but you guys who live in Cali are better suited to answer this

Ah whoops I was thinking of autos, don’t live in Cali so I don’t know Cali rules lol

https://www.akti.org/state-knife-laws/california/ Most people cite AKTI, Cali has some of the strictest knife laws so I’d read into it. As far as I remember, even if it’s not a gravity knife, you can’t carry a folder larger than 3”? 2.5”? Although the law probably differs between carrying and owning in the privacy of your home

Edit: I misremembered the fuck out of it lol, I was thinking of their limitation on autos being under 2”, listen to the other guys in the thread

I forget the brand but I think I have the same ones—I glued a thick tabletop a while back and I noticed that because of the clamps the wood would slip a bit so I used a dumbbell to weigh down the wood so they would be flush against the clamps’ bars lol. I would say consider doing another set of clamps to keep the boards from sliding with some sacrificial piece of something to keep the glue from snagging the clamps as well but plenty of good advice in this thread!

I’m about as beginner as you can get but how are they sitting when they’re clamped? Do you use parallel clamps, bar clamps, etc, if they sit flush when you test join them and then slip, chances are it’s something about how they’re resting

Got a MR Cerberus and CTB20 used off the CC group on fb no issues, I think as long as you vet the person and they have a solid record it’s hard to go wrong when getting stuff that’s discontinued or just at a significantly more palatable price 

I want to say mine is about 25 deep and still feels a bit shallow. Perhaps you can take the off cut, cut it down to width and attach it at the front or the back for some additional depth?

If they need to be accessible from both sides maybe put some cross braces inside the boxes in the middle?

Does flipping it around do anything for the fit? Can’t say I haven’t done that before lol

I had something similar but I was goofy and glued sandpaper to a board and used it like a washingboard lol, I would use other methods if possible 

I feel like if you know anyone who owns a miter saw you could make this in a weekend pretty comfortably, if you want to put them at an angle you would just maybe drop the angle of the main boards, make it into an a-frame build for some added stability, and instead of the cuts going horizontal you make them vertical so you can show off the boards. I’m very much a beginner and I feel like that would be doable but it’s very much what you’re comfortable doing and what you’d rather pay someone to do

Glad I wasn’t the only one whose immediate reaction was “oh that stem is gonna snap so nicely”, I feel like it’s a neat concept but there’s very little wiggle room in that routed cut that if they knock their knee against the foot of the glass it’ll probably snap the stem pretty easily. Maybe having it routed like that and having a rounded hole where the cup can sit and wobble a bit so the stem isn’t trapped between two angles? Just seems risky imo

Branding looks like henckels, handle is probably pakkawood or similar material

I love the look but imo making something meant to hold napkins with sharp edges means it’ll catch and rip them at some point or another, I might be wrong but at the very least I’d round the inside edges so you can put more napkins in and pull them out with minimal snagging

Been doing them for about three and a half years now, have done hundreds because I’m apparently a magnet for dialysis and cancer patients. I’m going to echo what everyone said, wiggle around and gently kinda poke the needle forward and backward and watch for tissue tenting. On patients with loose skin and adipose tissue, ask someone to help flatten out the tissue, just be aware it’ll probably pull your catheter out a bit once everything’s loose again. If you lose your tip and can’t find it after wiggling around, just back up until you can find it and advance slower. I never do it because I don’t like the view, but you could also try switching to a longitudinal view and place it right over your needle and you should find your tip relatively easily that way

I think the goal is less room 😉 but hell, my lap joints looked worse than this, one day I’ll gain the balls to attempt dovetails

Not to beat a dead horse but everyone is right, it’s still Damascus (pattern-welded) steel, they likely only etched the areas where you see the pattern or they etched everything but didn’t protect the etch when they were shaping the handle or something like that. Either way, there’s very little inherently better about pattern-welded steel, it usually depends on what steels they used to make it. Others are right in saying that looks pretty low quality and is nowhere near worth what you paid for it

I’ll add to the people suggesting rem oil that blasting it a few times with compressed air while it’s closed can clear out some dust and small particulate before you use rem oil

Pop of colour on those support pieces is a nice touch!

https://preview.redd.it/wril200q1bmf1.jpeg?width=3024&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d43db026ed4a041cca566d2274a6ed0a4395f6c1

Just the leg for better view! I don’t trust myself as a woodworker yet so everything is over-engineered, especially since the tabletop itself is about 40lbs