u/netcando

Any router will isolate your own devices onto a single private network. You just need to make sure it has a RJ45 WAN port and isn't an old dsl/cable modem/router combo.

While diy routers are great for us geeks and tinkerers, for something that just works straight out the box with minimal networking knowledge then sticking to a regular retail consumer router is probably your best bet.

I don't have a specific recommendation as I too am a geeky tinkerer but TP-Link are usually fairly standard, affordable and just work out the box. I often hear people say good things about Asus routers, and GL.iNet models often get recommended too, but I have never used those.

As is always the case, the best performance will be being wired to the router, not over wifi so be sure to hardwire what you can, especially the gaming pc and ps5 at the minimum.

Yeah those and mechanical splices can be useful as an emergency quick fix until a maintenance window can be secured for a proper fusion splice.

Could you have a pull down backdrop to make the gate look like the front door with your house number etc on it... 😁

All of them, if you put the letter in a box... 😁

Definitely sounds like a weird porting or call routing issue. Although you're with the same provider, they might well use different systems/services for the old phone service and the new voip service. Sounds like something has gone wrong during the changeover. They should be able to resolve it.

Those PLAs only have 100Mbps ethernet ports so your max throughput would be around 94Mbos. The AV500 refers to the max sync rate between PLAs, not the expected real world speed you will likely get.

TP-Link have this support page which helps explain it.

While some higher spec PLAs might improve the performance you get, unfortunately you won't know until you try them.

For System 7 to Mac OS 9 you're best using a Compact Flash card and CF to IDE adapter.

For anything Mac OS X then a mSATA SSD in an IDE enclosure.

I have replaced the original IDE HDDs with CF to IDE adapters in a beige desktop PowerMac G3 and a PowerBook 1400 and both run really well with it and it's really easy to do. I used 4GB SanDisk Extreme III CF cards for both as they are running OS8.1 or higher which supports HFS+ and partitions larger than 2GB.

Mostly the nostalgia of old software for me, although I'm currently using a beige G3 powermac as a bridge machine for restoring an even older 68k performa 400.

The physical layer is still standard wifi and uses standard wifi chipset architecture.

The datalink layer is where Ubiquiti use their proprietary TDMA protocol instead of wifis standard CSMA/CA

Disabling airMAX in the settings and they just use the regular CSMA/CA protocol and work with anything.

We had to during the transition when using it alongside older pre-airMAX radios and other vendor equipment. This was years ago though, I've been out the WISP game over a decade now!

I'm in the UK on the south coast and very interested in both.

Edit: have sent DM

airMAX is just a ubiquiti proprietary protocol that runs over the top of regular wifi protocols depending on the generation of the kit.

I'm not sure about the current units but I recall with the original 5GHz (non ac) airMAX radios there was a tick box option in the config to disable airMAX and it would just use the standard wifi protocols and work with other vendor equipment.

Unfortunately the metal shed is acting as a Faraday cage hence why it only connects when the roller shutter door is up. There's no getting around the laws of physics here I'm afraid.

If running a cable from the house to the shed isn't an option but you have clear line of sight between the two buildings then a wireless PtP (point to point) bridge is probably your best and easiest solution.

You would have the 2 external directional radio units on each building pointed at each other then a cable from each going inside. The one on the house would connect into your existing network and the one on the shed would connect to your deco node in there.

As with anything network related; speed, reliability, cost - you can only choose 2.

From worst performing but cheapest to best performing but most expensive, you're 3 main options are these;

1) 2.4GHz is slowest & cheapest with longest range. Lots of interference as the 2.4GHz spectrum is generally very congested unless you're really remote. Available for cheap on amazon etc.

2) 5GHz is faster and still affordable with a slight reduced range. Still uses regular wifi frequencies so prone to interference subject to location and environment. Available for cheap on amazon and from better named brands such as Mikrotik and Ubiquiti.

3) 60GHz is very high speed, very reliable but much more expensive and much lesser range. Very directional so needs more precision in installation. Generally there is not much else using that frequency so more reliable. Alot of 60GHz PtP kits also have a failover 5GHz link in the same unit to maintain a slower connection if 'rain fade' knocks out the primary 60GHz link. At under 150m that shouldn't be an issue though provided you have completely clear line of sight with absolutely no obstructions. Look to brands like Mikrotik and Ubiquiti for these solutions.

Good luck 👍

Ubiquiti Unifi and TP-Link Omada ranges have 'in wall' APs that connect cleanly to a wall backbox, are powered by PoE and provide 2 or 3 LAN ports (sometimes with PoE pass through) for connecting other devices.

Alternatively if you're using one of the many consumer grade 'mesh wifi' systems, they pretty much all support wired backhaul and if they have more than 1 ethernet port then is basically a built in switch.

Otherwise its a switch to connect your devices as well as an AP for wifi as you mentioned.

What you do now is purely aesthetics, the important bit is you have run the cables 👍

This isn't WiFi related. If the light status on the router is changing it is likely loosing sync to the ISP and it's the Internet connection itself that is dropping.

It's possible there is an issue with the drop cable coming into the house and it either runs through by the door or under the floor by the door and is being crushed or disturbed in a way either by the door being opened or when someone is stood in the area to open the door if the cable is underfoot.

It's weird but have seen instances like this before.

Exactly. My daily driver is a 4th gen i5 with 16Gb RAM and an SSD running Win11 (rufus). It handles everything I throw at it without breaking a sweat hence not felt the need to upgrade. I'd imagine the earlier gen i7 would be roughly comparable.

I certainly wouldn't pay £400 for one even advertised as new. £50-75 is probably a more realistic online price. Maybe £100-150 from a bricks & mortar store with higher overheads & RTB support?

This is the simplest and cheapest way. It also works with a Cisco SPA112. I have one configured so one line can call the other directly. No SIP account or network/Internet connection required. Useful for testing if analogue phones are in working condition or not.

No, quite common after a reset of the electrical ethernet connection to initially autonegotiate at GigE only to later drop down to FE if it cannot be reliably sustained. That's how the autonegotiation works. Could be something as simple as electrical interference.

Sounds like the WAN port connection is dropping from GigE to 100FE. That would basically lower the speed into the router to 100Mbps for all wired and wireless devices to share. It may be as simple as a replacement ethernet cable or it could be an issue with the C80 WAN port or whatever the other end of that cable it plugged into.

Looks like the original wireless mouse which was just a wireless version of the usb optical mouse with a single button. The mighty mouse (usb & wireless) with the additional buttons and scroll ball was the successor iirc.

That depends on total power draw and the capacity of the battery. The Vonets averages around 2.5 Watts. For example, a 100Ah 12V SLA leisure battery would power it for around 8-9 days before the battery is down to 50% and needs recharging.

Do you have the option to mount a solar panel anywhere that gets direct sunlight outside the garage? Being able to top up the battery during the day would at worse extend the time between charges and at best keep it running indefinitely.

Yeah, they have a few different operating modes including as a wifi repeater. Obviously multiple wifi hops on the 2.4GHz band will tank performance but the fact its small, cheap and usb powered might be a suitable starting point to get you something which is better than the nothing you currently have.

If for whatever reason the wifi from it doesn't reach into the garage, it has an ethernet port you could run a cable from to another wifi access point (or even another vonets unit) inside the garage.

No mains power is really the main limiting factor so stuff that can be powered by USB is probably the most convenient, if not best performing, to work with.

Good luck.

Maybe something like a vonets var11n-300 in a plastic weatherproof box on the outside of the garage where you do get signal would work?

It's low consumption and usb powered so can be powered by a powerbank/power tool battery etc where there is no mains power. You could possibly rig up a battery with solar panel for it.

It only uses the 2.4GHz band so you're not going to get blistering fast performance, likely around 20-30Mbps or so, but that's more than sufficient for most light usage.

For light usage like that, best performance to price ratio would be a refurbished ex business mini pc from the likes of Dell, HP or Lenovo. Personally I've always used the Dell Optiplex range.

Not sure where you are but for example near me there a 3 or 4 independent computer shops that refurbish resell ex corporate machines that have been replaced after the companies 3-4 year IT cycle.

Much cheaper than buying new, have Pro windows licence instead of Home version and the computer shop will sort out data transfer from the old machine and provide ongoing local support if required.

If you're comfortable doing the above yourself then an online marketplace is probably best source.

I switched from blink to a reolink poe doorbell a couple of years ago and I've been delighted with it. It is much more responsive and reliable as it is always on and connected and doesn't have to wake up to connect to wifi like the blink one. I have also since added a 3rd party NVR recording 24/7.

I would not switch back to a wifi doorbell irrespective of make/model.

As its a TV freeview antenna most routers dont have a port it'll fit in, so recommended ways to connect it include using blu tack, self adhesive velcro or superglue...

If you choose to connect it to your TV however, it'll just plug straight into the antenna port 👍