u/pricelessbrew

Absolutely gorgeous.

No idea on species but in that condition I would use it for anything, any boards cut seem like they will hold a lot of tension and warp tremendously and too many cracks to turn on a lathe unless you're very experienced. Maybe you could try carving but that's all I would do

100% pine.

Do the fingernail test and report back.

If you're in SE Michigan and looking for a basic table like that, but actually made from ambrosia maple (or a different species is fine too). Let me know, I won't try and rip you off...

Honestly not a bad test. My finger nails are quite tough and thick, I can easily press it into any pine, Douglas fur, spruce and as high as cherry and some walnut. But maple will always win unless it's green.

Appreciate the info. Do you happen to have, or have used any of the wen chucks? I'm about to make a purchase and trying to decide. I have a power 10x18 lathe

Hey just seeing this that you have both. Any other comparisons you would share?

If it's 125 annually and they don't enforce anything then it's fine for now, until some Karen joins the board and starts policing...

Going to want to do a fine espresso grind on that one, the smaller the particles the better they'll fill the void. Give it a good wdt but leave the tamper at home.

Based on the cracks and poor stickering I wouldn't unless it was $1-1.5/bdft. You'll need to stack and dry these yourself before they're useful, and if you don't know what you're doing then you'll waste a good chunk of it unless you have a good use for offcuts.

But with that said I can get kilned maple for $3-4 bdft.

Everything. Get a lathe and you can use even the smallest of offcuts 🤣

Drilling into tile is slow, messy, and tiring, but it's not difficult.

Get a water filled kit with a tile drill bit of an appropriate size and you're good.

Drilling into tile is slow, messy, and tiring, but it's not difficult. Something like this https://cdn-tp6.mozu.com/24645-37138/cms/37138/files/db27b9f3-cc3e-4616-84d1-589044dc9523?quality=80&max=480

I would also put a thin piece of wood between the tile and the suspension rail, to distribute the forces more and prevent the tile from cracking when things are tightened down. But if you do this, then you might need deeper than normal countertops, if you're going custom then no worries. If you're using stock counters, keep this thin enough and it won't really matter besides making the overhang slightly smaller.

If you have a very thin very clear silicone to seal the seam, I would use that to maintain water resistance. TEST WITH OFFCUTS to make sure it's thin enough to not be a horrible bumpy line and doesn't ruin the grain or color visually.

It's a sheetgood, so you don't really have to worry about wood movement and it moving over time. I'm pretty sure the edges are very slightly rounded, maybe 1/8 round over?

I would cut off both edges if they are in fact rounded, butt then up and screw them in through the back. No need to get fancy, I would not recommend doing any kind of joinery through it as it's so thin. You could maybe add some wood glue between the two just for giggles but that's as far as I would personally go. No dowels, no lap joints or dados or biscuits or anything like that.

Put some boards down on the ground to give it something to stand on, shim it into position and alignment like you like based on the grain of the veneer . Then screw it from the inside, being careful not to go through. Having someone else to help is nice to minimize things shifting, but this should get it where you need it without 6 extra hands.

I would recommend lowering the serving size and price proportionally on the menu. I know you can order any amount you want, but seeing $40 on a menu for BBQ is a lot.

Go with $20 for 1/2lb or $10 for 1/4lb and you'll get a lot more interest. Marketing and price perceptions are weird.

Also he learns a lot more about parrying and deflecting vs outright stopping it cold.

They're kitchen cabinet hinges, maybe worth $10 to try and resale.

+1. Use it all the time on hand tools for woodworking, it's great.

Citric acid + washing soda + dish soap. Great homemade version of evaporust that's way cheaper, removes rust well and doesn't pit the steel. We use it for rusty tools like chisels and planes too where pitting can be problematic

Citric acid + washing soda + dish soap. Great homemade version of evaporust that's way cheaper, removes rust well and doesn't pit the steel. We use it for rusty tools like chisels and planes too where pitting can be problematic

Accurate.

Corporations would never do something bad for the environment or people because it's more profitable. Surely that would consider the implications of their decisions.

Something isn't square and plumb, could be the cabinets weren't assembled square, could be that the walls and floors were not shimmed properly.

Find the issue with a good square and a level and correct it accordingly.

+1 please post, looking forward to it!

Yes it was supposed to come on July 1st but was pushed back for unknown reasons, likely due to insufficient supply if I were to take a guess.

Hey Mike, hope you and Scott are doing well! I tried to make a trip out to visit Sapwood whenever we were passing by on the road from DC to Philly area when I lived there. Always good beers, food, and service!

Any ideas why crappy low quality a Beans and oreground and/or poorly maintained/cleaned equipment causes reflux for me but light roast good whole beans doesn't?

Not sure if it has to oxidation of pre ground beans, or oil accumulation and rancid oil or gunk on the equip, or something else but there's definitely a ranking for me of

From lowest acid reflux trigger to highest

Good dark roast whole beans Good light roast whole beans, small increase Pre ground dark roast on brand new drip machine, big increase Pre ground dark toast on old or poorly maintained equipment, even bigger increase.