u/relatively-physics

Going with a high-quality regular fan plus a smart plug is often the better move, especially if you're aiming for "Buy It For Life" quality. Most "smart" fans on the market (like Dreo) are decent in features but not exactly built like tanks.

If the fan has mechanical controls (i.e., it turns back on automatically when power is restored), then pairing it with a smart plug works great. You’ll be able to automate on/off easily without depending on cloud services or proprietary apps.

Finding a dimmable smart relay that works with 240V, supports Zigbee or Matter/Thread, and fits in a ceiling box is still trickier than it should be.

If you're trying to avoid the wall dimmer and keep the Hue bulb responsive, a relay in the ceiling makes sense. But yeah, your options are limited.

The Shelly 0–10V won’t work for this setup. Your G9s are 240V mains-powered, so you’d need something that can handle trailing edge dimming for LEDs. Also, most Shelly stuff is Wi-Fi and doesn't support Zigbee or Matter. Shelly Pro 1PM is more for DIN rail installs, not ceiling boxes.

What you want is something like the Sunricher Zigbee LED dimmer (SR-ZG9101SAC-HP) or the Müller-Licht Tint dimmer module. Both are Zigbee, support 240V LED dimming, and can fit behind a switch or in a ceiling box. They also play decently with Hue hubs, though not all features are guaranteed. Check your wiring though because these need a neutral.

There’s no perfect Matter/Thread ceiling dimmer relay yet. If you're okay with Zigbee and already using Hue, these modules are probably your best shot.

Hope that helps.

Those two thin wires on the buzzer are most likely carrying low-voltage AC—usually around 8 to 12V—so you can't just wire in a typical Zigbee relay, since most are designed for mains or DC. You'll need something that can handle dry contact control, ideally battery-powered if there's no outlet nearby.

One option is pairing a dry contact relay (like a generic 5V or 12V one) with a battery-powered Zigbee switch module. Some people use the Aqara wireless mini switch with a relay, depending on how much current the buzzer draws. Alternatively, a Shelly 1 with dry contact could work, but that still needs power, so probably not ideal in your case.

If you want to avoid wiring altogether, something like a second SwitchBot might be the simplest route—just stick it over the buzzer button. Not elegant, but it works without needing to tap into the buzzer circuit at all.

Bottom line: figure out the buzzer's voltage first with a multimeter, then look at Zigbee options that either support dry contacts or can trigger a low-voltage relay without needing mains power.

If local control and Home Assistant integration are a priority, Mitsubishi Electric with CN105 is one of the safest bets. A lot of people in the HA community use it with ESPHome or Intesis adapters. Just make sure the indoor units support the CN105 port—most do, but check the spec sheets or ask your installer to confirm.

Daikin is another solid option. Look for models that support the BRP069B41 or BRP069B45 Wi-Fi modules. These are known to work locally (via MQTT or ESPHome with some tweaks) and integrate reliably with HA.

Avoid Samsung WindFree if you're trying to stay cloud-free. Their integration relies heavily on SmartThings, which is cloud-based and can break with API changes.

Also consider Gree or Midea units with DIY Wi-Fi modules, which can be flashed with ESPHome or used via local API.

If you're spending on 8 units, talk to your HVAC installer about making sure the communication ports are exposed and accessible, and confirm model numbers before buying.

Simplest option is to set up a cheap tablet or an old phone with the Hue or Google Home app logged into a shared account. Lock it to just that app using guest mode or app pinning so guests can only control the lights. That avoids needing their Gmail and keeps your main account private. You could also add a few Hue Tap Dial switches or smart buttons to give basic control without needing a phone at all. Great for guests who just want to turn lights on or off quickly.

Roborock S8 Pro Ultra checks most of your boxes. It does mopping with auto mop lifting, auto emptying, and works well on polished concrete. You can integrate it with Home Assistant using the Valetudo or Xiaomi integration, which supports zone cleaning and presence-based automations. It has cliff sensors for stairs and can be automated to avoid running when motion is detected nearby. Solid all-around option if you're looking for reliability and HA control.

You're on the right track. Adding neutrals and Ethernet now will save you headaches later. I'd avoid smart outlets unless there's a clear use case. Zigbee sensors are solid for doors and windows, even sliders. For air quality, AirGradient is great if you like DIY, but battery-powered Zigbee sensors are simpler. RF control might be possible with a Broadlink or an RF bridge if it's 433 MHz. If you're already using Home Assistant, I'd stick with it and maybe pair it with something like SmartThings or SwitchBot Hub to simplify parts of the setup.

You might want to look into pairing your voice assistant with a list app like Bring! or Google Keep for smoother input and sharing. If you're using something like a smart hub or automation platform, you can set up a routine that sends the list to your phone when you enter a specific zone, like the grocery store. It takes a bit of setup, but once it’s running, it feels seamless. Way more reliable than relying only on Alexa’s native list system.

Biggest one is committing to one ecosystem early, or at least choosing devices that play nice with multiple platforms. Mixing and matching too much at the start made things messy. I’d also focus more on sensors and automations from the beginning rather than just voice control and smart bulbs. Motion sensors, contact sensors, and smart switches give way more value long term.

Look into the Ecobee Smart Thermostat or Nest Learning Thermostat. Both let you control everything remotely through an app and have options to lock settings with a PIN. You can limit how much someone at home can change the temperature, or just fully control it from your phone.

If you want something more locked-down, Honeywell T6 Pro Z-Wave is also a solid option and works well with smart home hubs like SmartThings or Hubitat. That gives you remote control and strict access rules without relying on cloud services if that's a concern.

If you're doing a full install, it's usually cleaner to go with a smart curtain track from the start. Brands like Zemismart, Dooya, and Aqara make motorized tracks that are reliable and integrate well with systems like Home Assistant, Alexa, or Google Home. They often support Zigbee or RF and can be cut to size.

One that helps a lot is motion-activated low lighting at night. A dim warm light turns on automatically in the hallway or nursery when someone walks by after a certain hour, no need to fumble for switches while carrying the baby. Another useful one is a feeding timer shortcut that starts when a contact sensor opens on the fridge or bottle drawer, logging times into a spreadsheet or app. Simple automations that keep the house quiet, dim, and hands-free really make a difference when you're low on sleep.

It's a solid idea, especially if you focus on simplicity and reliability. Most people don't want to tinker, they just want it to work. The custom app and chatbot could set you apart if they’re easy to use. Airbnb and real estate are smart targets since they value hands-off automation. Just make sure Home Assistant is stable enough for non-technical users and think carefully about how you pitch the subscription.

Most recessed lights can’t change color temperature by default unless you specifically buy tunable white or full RGBWW smart lights. If you want to adjust the temperature throughout the day, you’ll need smart bulbs or smart recessed fixtures that support it. Look for ones labeled “CCT adjustable” or “tunable white.”

For control, you usually skip smart switches and use a smart hub or Wi-Fi/Bluetooth app depending on the brand. Options like Philips Hue, Sengled, or Innr work with Zigbee, and others like Govee or TP-Link Kasa run over Wi-Fi. If you’re using recessed fixtures, brands like Halo and Juno make smart downlights with tunable white that integrate with common platforms.

You can automate color temperature using routines in apps like Hue, Alexa, Google Home, or SmartThings. For example, set cooler light at 10 AM and warmer light after sunset. Just make sure not to put smart bulbs on a dimmer switch, since it messes with power and control. Use a regular switch or a smart button instead.

Yeah, a few people go that route. The most common setup is using a humidity sensor with a smart switch or relay rather than buying a full smart fan. For example, a Shelly or Zooz switch connected to a regular bathroom fan can be automated to turn on when humidity rises and off when it drops.

If you're looking for something more plug-and-play, Panasonic’s WhisperSense line has models with built-in humidity sensing, though they aren't very “smart” in terms of integrations. You’d still need a smart switch or sensor for Google Home control.

It’s a valid concern, especially if core functions like internet and EV charging rely on Home Assistant. The best approach is to document the critical parts of the system in a simple guide. Include logins, steps to reboot or reset, and how to bypass smart controls if needed. Cloud backups of configuration files and a printed version of the instructions can help a lot.

You could also set up fallback systems like a second router or a manual charging option in case Home Assistant stops working. If no one else in the household understands the setup, a simple recovery plan is worth having.

IMO, the best way is to make it useful for her, not just cool for you. Start small with stuff that actually solves a problem. Automated lights that turn on softly at night for bathroom trips, motion sensors that turn off lights in empty rooms, or being able to check if the door’s locked without getting up. Those little things add comfort without needing her to learn anything.

Security concerns are valid too, so lean into local control where possible, avoid cloud-only stuff, and explain that you’re not opening things up to the internet blindly. If she feels like it’s making life easier, not more complicated or risky, she’ll probably come around.

Also, don’t force it all at once. Let her keep using the wall switches and routines she's used to. Make the smart part optional in the background. If it’s invisible but helpful, that’s the win.

You don’t need a Zigbee dongle right away. Home Assistant can connect to your Hue and IKEA devices through their existing hubs. If you want to control them directly without those hubs, then get a Zigbee dongle like the Sonoff Zigbee 3.0 or SkyConnect. You can start with what you have and add the dongle later if you want more control or local-only setup.

Home Assistant's main strength is local control and flexibility. It supports a wide range of devices and integrations, including some that aren't officially supported anywhere else. Since it's open source, the community is always adding features and support. You get full access to customize automations, dashboards, and logic with a lot of detail. If you want everything to run locally, without relying on the cloud, it's one of the best options out there.

That said, it can be a lot to manage. The setup process isn't always smooth, updates can break things, and most of the deeper customization involves YAML or manual tweaks. It's powerful, but not the easiest system to maintain if you're not into tinkering.

I use SmartThings instead because it gives me a good middle ground. It handles Zigbee devices well, works with Alexa and Google, and has a decent app. It's mostly cloud-based, but it’s reliable enough and easier to use day to day. I don’t need the full customization that HA offers, and I’d rather avoid maintaining another system unless I really have to.

If HomeSeer is covering your needs and you’re not running into limits, there may not be a strong reason to switch. HA makes the most sense if you want deep local control, broad device compatibility, or plan to grow into a more advanced setup.

Honestly, the smart hardwired smoke detector space is kind of disappointing. Most options either rely too much on cloud services or have annoying app issues. The Nest Protect is probably the most well-known, and it’s decent overall, but pricey and still tied to Google’s ecosystem.

If reliability is your top priority, a traditional hardwired detector from Kidde or First Alert might be the better move. Some of them have interconnect capability, and you can always add a smart listener like the Echo Guard or Aqara smoke detector listener to get notifications without replacing your whole setup.

Until the smart options get better, it might make more sense to keep your main detectors traditional and just layer on smart features where you can.

If you’re starting out and just want basic voice control for lights, TV, and music, Alexa, Google Home, and Apple Home can all do the job. Since you already have a Samsung TV and are using the SmartThings app, sticking with SmartThings could make sense. It’s a solid platform that works with a ton of devices and doesn’t lock you into one ecosystem.

I’ve got SmartThings running myself and it plays well with Zigbee gear, Wi-Fi plugs, lights, and more. If you ever want to go deeper later, like with automations or local control, it scales up nicely. And it works with both Alexa and Google, so you can still use your Echo Dot for voice commands if you want.

If you’re mostly Apple, you might consider switching to HomeKit, but that’s more limiting unless you’re already in the Apple ecosystem pretty deep. For now, SmartThings with Alexa on the side is more than enough for controlling your lights, TV, and a few extras without overcomplicating things.

If you’ve got zoned HVAC with HZ311 panels, you’ll need thermostats that can handle multi-zone setups and ideally integrate with those panels. The Ecobee Smart Thermostat Enhanced or Premium is a solid pick. They support multiple zones, have great app control, work with all the major platforms (Alexa, Google, Apple), and you can add room sensors to help balance temps.

Nest is user-friendly but not great for multi-zone systems unless you're okay managing each stat separately. Also, Nest’s support for zoning panels like the HZ311 is a bit iffy and can get messy with compatibility.

Ecobee tends to play nicer with setups like yours, and the scheduling, remote access, and energy-saving features are all solid. Just double-check your wiring and transformer capacity since powering multiple smart thermostats might need a little adjustment.

Both are solid picks but come with different tradeoffs.

The Aqara G4 leans more privacy-focused. It supports local storage via microSD, runs on battery or wired power, and plays well with HomeKit Secure Video if you’re in that ecosystem. It’s also one of the few that offers local facial recognition, which is rare at this price point. On the downside, the motion detection can be a bit less refined, and the app experience is kind of average.

The Eufy E340 has better video quality overall, especially at night with dual cameras. It also has local storage via HomeBase, but be aware that Eufy has had some past controversy around "cloud-free" claims, so read the fine print. It integrates better with Alexa, and the notifications are faster and more reliable in general.

If you're sticking with Alexa and want sharper motion and video performance, the E340 might edge it out. If local control and privacy are bigger priorities, the G4 is worth a look.

One thing to keep in mind in Europe is chime support and wiring standards, which can vary. The G4 supports wired chimes, while the E340 requires Eufy’s own base or app chimes.

You're describing a setup that's surprisingly hard to find off the shelf, but not impossible. Look into Reolink. They’ve got Wi-Fi camera options like the Reolink Argus series that are battery powered, and they also offer models with wired power. You can set them up with a Reolink NVR or use an SD card for local storage. No subscription needed, and the footage can auto-delete after a set time when using SD or NVR storage.

You can view the feeds from your PC through their desktop client or by accessing the camera’s local IP. Just make sure to tweak the settings to avoid cloud fallback. Some models even support FTP or local NAS recording if you want more control.

Another option is Amcrest. A bit more manual to set up, but they offer RTSP streams, local storage, and no forced cloud. You’d just need to handle retention either on your NAS or by setting up auto-delete rules.

Avoid systems like Arlo or Ring since they’re heavily cloud-based and will push you into subscriptions fast.

HomeKit is Apple’s smart home platform. It lets you control compatible devices through the Home app on your iPhone, iPad, or Mac. If you have a HomePod mini or Apple TV, that becomes your “hub,” so you can run automations and control stuff when you're away from home. It only works with devices that specifically support HomeKit, so compatibility is something to watch out for.