u/ring0r

Yes, every single cable is connected and fully functional. 😄 Every room has at least two Ethernet runs, while the gaming room and office have four each.

No VLANs, because I simply don't need them for my setup.

And why would I need color coding? Every port is numbered, labeled and documented in my dashboard. I know exactly where every cable goes.

It's a fully functional home network, not a decoration. 😉

Fair, and point taken. Nothing has acted up so far, but stranded patch cords are exactly where that shows up later, so I'm not going to argue with the spec. Next step is more slack on the tight bottom row and a rounded lead-in on the slots so the cable isn't bent over an edge.

Those are plain Cat6 U/UTP patch cords (stranded, about 5.5 mm), not Cat7 installation cable, so the 4x figure is the patch cord value. But you're right that the lowest row is too tight, that's the row going to the PoE switches where there isn't much room. I'll give those a longer loop and look at a bigger lead-in radius on the slot edge for the next revision. Thanks for pointing it out.

Fair questions. Servicing: each cable just pulls forward out of its slot, no tool, and clicks back in, so swapping one cable doesn't touch the others. Tracing is actually the main point for me: the slot numbers match the patch panel port above, so the cable in slot 7 is port 7, and every cable runs straight down instead of crossing over its neighbours. Bend radius: the rule of thumb for patch cords is about 4x the cable diameter (~25 mm). For short 1G/2.5G runs inside the rack it has been fine, for 10G over copper I'd leave a bigger loop. It's a small homelab rack, not a datacenter, so neat and easy to follow was the goal.

Fair point, the rule of thumb for patch cords is about 4x the cable diameter, so roughly 25 mm. For short in-rack patch runs at 1G/2.5G it has been fine so far, but if you run 10G over copper I'd give the loop more room or mount the comb one unit further away.

Thanks! Real rack, real tablet, the GIF is straight from the phone. Only the brand name and serial numbers were retouched on the photo.

r/homelab doesn't allow commercial links, so I left it out here. It's a paid file (3MF + STL) and the link is in the comments of my r/functionalprint post about the same comb, you'll find it on my profile.

Thanks! I printed mine in PETG and that was springy enough on its own, so I never tried TPU. The tongues are thin enough to flex without cracking, PLA works too but I'd expect it to get brittle after a lot of in/out cycles. The boot size doesn't matter, by the way: the slot only grabs the cable jacket below the plug, so 5.6 mm is about the cable diameter, not the connector. If your cables are thicker than ~6 mm (some Cat6A), measure first.

Files (3MF + STL, black and AMS edition, top+bottom or top-only variant): https://www.printables.com/model/1892650

Hardware per panel: 2x M3x16 + 2x M3 nuts, plus the usual rack screws.

If anyone wants to print one: the universal version (24 slots top + 24 bottom, or top-only, black or AMS inlay) is on Cults3D: https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/19-1u-rack-cable-comb-48-snap-in-slots-for-patch-cables-black-ams-edition

Files (3MF + STL, black and AMS edition, top+bottom or top-only variant): https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/gadget/19-1u-rack-cable-comb-48-snap-in-slots-for-patch-cables-black-ams-edition

Hardware per panel: 2x M3x16 + 2x M3 nuts, plus the usual rack screws.

For everyone wondering if this is AI: here's the untouched photo straight from my phone, no edits. In the post I had the Proxmox lettering retouched with ChatGPT because I wasn't sure about trademark stuff at first, that's what the checker picks up. Turns out it's a non-issue, so here's the original, Proxmox label and all.

https://preview.redd.it/byc12zfgczxh1.jpeg?width=2250&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=6a0b508c8b86fecd5ec6ca047e2289a500b27ab9

Untouched original: https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/1xcozlv/comment/19rq4mce05bnm/

Untouched original: https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/1xcozlv/comment/19rq4mce05bnm/

Untouched original: https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/1xcozlv/comment/19rq4mce05bnm/

Untouched original: https://www.reddit.com/r/homelab/comments/1xcozlv/comment/19rq4mce05bnm/

Sure, here is a quick phone clip of it (converted to a GIF). Live dashboard with the rack TV running, then zooming out to the whole rack. No AI, just a lot of hours with a 3D printer.

https://i.redd.it/lf95gjew7zxh1.gif

Good tip, thanks. For anyone with a fire rated ceiling, an intumescent downlight hood over the cutout is the easy fix.

True, that is the main catch. My kitchen mmWave sensor kept seeing the robot vacuum, I had to cut its range down to about 2.25 m. Zones and sensitivity tuning help a lot, but PIR is simply more forgiving there.

Thanks, I will post an update here once they have been through a few battery swaps.

Thank you!

In this case there is no wiring at all, the Hue motion sensor runs on two AAA batteries, so it just sits in the hole. Mains powered mmWave detectors are usually fed from the junction box in the ceiling, using the permanent live and neutral before the light switch, not the switched line. That part is a job for an electrician though.