u/snooze_mcgooze

I got this you guys, I’ll give him the pat on the back he’s looking for. Good job lil fella *taps head twice gently*

Unplug the N205 camshaft adjustment magnet, it could be the intake cam sprocket making noise. The intake cam sprocket is adjustable and filled with oil, the moving parts in the sprocket could be the source of the noise. By unplugging the N205 you stop the spool valve from moving and this stops the noise, the car probably needs an intake cam.

Squeaks and rattles are a mechanics least favorite job to perform, they are tricky to find in person, so over the phone it’s almost impossible.

Either the accident damaged more than just the exterior or the collision technician messed up, I’ve never seen good mechanical work from a body shop, especially on VW/Audi vehicles

Scan the vehicle for fault codes, this is step one in diagnosis.

I’d take it back to the shop that did the work….

Head to your local dealership and purchase the part that has failed. Then install it. This is the BEST way to repair your vehicle. You didn’t say anything about cost and therefore it was not factored in to the advice given.

These are superficial, purely cosmetic. This is “weather checking” Michelin themselves are aware of this and it happens to Michelins more than other manufacturers. See Michelins website for more information.

I’d pick up some chassis ears and start hunting. Good luck!

The reason reputable tire shops will not touch this is because it’s the smart thing to do. Operating a vehicle on public roads with a tire that could fail is dumb because it puts you and others at risk. So it’s up to you.

No, it’s on the outer edge of that large water channel. It’s in the Unsafe repair area.

New cover, and some hog-ring pliers and some hog rings.

Advice: take it to a VW specialist/dealership.
Feedback: none.

Well hopefully it’s all sorted out

ONLY Use a genuine Apple lightning cable for best results while using Car play. What is the exact wording of the fault code?

If the misfire fault returns, swap a coil from the misfiring cylinder to another, clear faults, run the car to duplicate the fault, if the fault follows the coil, replace the coil. If the misfire remains after the coil swap, swap a spark plug in a similar fashion, clear, retest, if the fault folllws the plug replace it….. if the fault still remains… it’s a fuel injector problem, carbon on the intake valve or an internal engine problem

Bruh, check boost hoses first, based on the faults the throttle plate angle doesn’t match what the MAP sensor is seeing, the car knows, not enough air causes too much fuel, rich mixture. The cylinder is disabled meaning the car is not firing the injector and coil on purpose

Without fault codes we will never know…. Scan it

Check your parking sensors for paint/rock chips, this kills parking sensors, make sure they are mounted correctly and are clean. They should be centered in their bumper holes and recessed as well.

The Check engine light( aka MIL - malfunction indicator light) will illuminate when the Engine control module (ECM) stores a Diagnostic trouble code(DTC). The ECM is address 0001, there is either a fault in the ECM or a fault in another control module that is telling the ECM to turn that light on. Check the faults in the ECM. Also, with the key on, engine off…… the MIL will be on, the MIL illuminates to communicate that the ECM is active and OK. The MIL will turn off when the engine starts up and if there is a problem the MIL will illuminate and if there are no issues there will be no MIL. Your car will trigger faults in multiple control modules and they can be ignored, a lot of them are considered “ghost” faults. What faults are stored in 0001 Engine control module?
EDIT: just saw the communication faults, no actual power train faults. The NV energy management and static current fault could be caused by a faulty battery, have the battery tested by the dealer, battery adaption is required when replacing the battery, also done using a scan tool, I would only trust the dealer scan tool for this. Static current means the battery is being drained when the car is off and “asleep”(control modules on stand by). It’s also possible that the battery is weak and voltage is dropping low when the electric starter motor is energized, all available power may be going to the starter and leaving the control modules with low voltage which will cause errors.

The engine code, it’s located on the upper timing cover.

Low oil pressure?? The engine is destroyed. The oil pressure switches(yes there are multiple) are simple on or off switches, they close when some pressure is present, their operating pressure range is stamped on the bottom of them so you gotta unscrew them(they are technically one time use fyi,removing them requires replacement as per VW). The correct procedure would be to load test the wire from the sensor to the ECM, then check actual output physical oil pressure with a mechanical oil pressure gauge. The camshaft timing is controlled using high pressure oil and oil control valves, without oil pressure you have no timing control. Diagnosis…. Replacement engine, drop the oil pan and check for glitter, if present…. Replacement engine and turbocharger with oil lines.

100% correct, the term “automotive” means the paint is intended for UV exposure.

It will come off eventually, start low(rough) and progressively go higher(fine), use water and change paper when it feels like it’s not “cutting”

Are you using water to “wet sand” the headlight? Water washes away the debris that can collect on the sand paper making it ineffective.