u/stray_r

Chube compact but it's on backorder.

One of the phaetus dragon series if you want to go hot and want it now.

TZ-V6 and an improved nozzle if you're a cheapskate. I really like what they do with PLA and a plated copper e3d shape nozzle.

If that's a stock ender 3 v1/pro/V2 do yourself a huge favour and replace the hotend for something that doesn't use the end of the PTFE tube as the liner of the heatbreak.

Trying to calibrate flow with orca or print at anything resembling the speed of a modern printer will give you a headache. The best fun is when the PTFE tube gets pushed up away from the nozzle and you end up with a pool of molten filament just above the nozzle. It actually flows faster like this, but retraction and pressure advance settings stop doing anything and you get strings for days or end up turning the temperature right down to compensate which leads to more trouble.

Cheapest option is a TZ-E3 hotend, they're all over AliExpress and you might find them on Amazon. They flow quite fast and I have a handful of the V6 variant of the same because they're really cheap and not awful. They come with tiny hardened steel nozzles that work ok, but they're compatible with e3d v6 shape nozzles which make the assembly a little longer (about 2mm iirc) and I think the e3d tip profile, especially with brass, copper or other very conductive material gives a really nice surface finish, especially top surfaces.

The 'good' option is a phaetus dragonfly BMO. I've not tried this particular one but I have tried other phaetus hotends.

You could also just replace the heatbreak in your creality hotend for an all metal one. I have a slice one in a creality hotend somewhere and it performs ok. It's kinda hamstrung by the shitty heatsink design though, the fins are too close together to force air past easily, so you need a decent fan on it for difficult PLAs, but with the slice heatbreak and a cht nozzle it was an ABS monster and ran in my Voron switchire for years.

TZ series hotends are better and cheaper than either the slice heatbreak or a genuine bondtech cht nozzle though.

Complain in writing to your bank, after 4 weeks or a final answer go to the ICO, after 8 weeks or a final answer go the Financial Ombudsman

It's GB £11.99 direct from sunlu at the moment. They don't seem to have 4 packs of refill spools in ASA right now, but that works out crazy cheap, I think the ABS 4-pack is £33ish.

That's including postage, 48 hours, royal fail iirc. Not sure if that's better or worse than Amazon.

https://www.reddit.com/r/lgbt/s/VP9YRDUxtb

We've had enough of experts grifters

I think this road is maintained by the university

Print or buy a belt tension meter. You have unequal tension in the belts. Just cranking up the tension doesn't help. You'll break something. Potentially a stepper motor shaft.

raspberryPi OS is Debian trixie with a few specific tweaks to support pi hardware.

It shouldn't make a difference as long as you're using something similar, the instructions work for debian and ubuntu on arm and intel/amd64 most of the time

Have you tried reading the instructions that come with them?

This is the in Leeds, Yorkshire, in the North of England. This is part of recent redevelopment but a large amount of the campus is 60s and 70s brutalist concrete.

It depends what you do with it. If you want to run cameras and a very fast printer with many independent Z motors, multiple independent motors for X and Y in AWD or hybrid coreXY, multiple toolheads, multiple cameras etc you need all the Pi you can get.

If you want to run 4 steppers on a single MCU and no camera, a Zero2W or a Pi 3b will do the job easily. If you're careful with framerates and resolution you can can get more cameras on the 3b, but be aware the WiF bandwidth isn't amazing on the 3b.

A Pi4 1Gib runs my V0.2 and my swichwire with one camera at a not fantastic framerate. A Zero2W runs another V0 adjacent printer.

I'm using HP T530, T630 and T640 thin clients a lot as they can be found used for pi4 kinda money with ~8Gb ram and sata (or nvme on the T640) m.2 ssds. The extra ram is nice for using VSCodium or even VSCode to edit configs and macros, although the latter has got really demanding of late.

If you're looking for a project machine to work on rather than a set and forgot product, look for an x86 thin client, stick debian trixie on it and install Klipper with kiuah. But you'll probably need a monitor (or a TV) and a usb keyboard whilst you're setting up. To be fair, these things are always good to have and my main reason for sticking a small touch screen on my printers and running klipperscreen is not having to lug a monitor into the print room or move a heavy printer if something goes wrong.

I'm working on that. And I don't like losing.

Are you sure it's sliding forward when you accelerate?

Or are you classing braking as an acceleration?

If it's the stock hotend on an E3 v1/pro/v2 consider this a sign that it's time to upgrade. Check AliExpress for a TZ E3, it will cost about as much as a spool of filament, and by default they have hardened steel nozzles you don't need to replace very often.

Every fiddle/fidget toy out there. Printables/thingivserse etc are full of them.

Possibly also the balance/stacking games, printables has a competition on these recently.

Ideally find stuff that feels fun and satisfying rather than a chore.

What are your experiences of smile? I've never gone near them? I've only really known HSBC, co-op and Monzo

Does the SV08 max fit through a regular door?

I'm asking for the title Mx on my card. Monzo did this for me when I first changed my name and we're awesome about it.

They threw a tantrum about it when I asked them to do the same with a perks card.

Stray Redditor is a place holder name I use to avoid mentioning my meatspace name. Hence the card shows Mx [redacted blur] because all I'm sharing is the title.

Maybe I don't want to go back in the box.

I was using smooth PEI for ASA/ABS but the sheets were not lasting all that long, they'd get a bubble underneath somewhere and it would just spread and eventually tear.

I made G10 spring steel plate out of an old damaged pei one and I've stopped needing to keep spare PEI as I only use it for PLA that needs an immaculate finish on the surface in contact with the build plate.

No, prusa firmware is not written in PHP. You can check the GitHub.

Neither do prusalink or prusaconneect. I don't think printables does either. Prusa seems to like JavaScript/Typescript and Python.

No, I didn't put it in the first name slot. I didn't try changing my legal name.