u/trajectory25

You might like the Motus MSTR.

If you go a little outside of town in might be a bit cheaper. Here's two to consider.

https://goo.gl/maps/z6bt5Bz1WE52

https://goo.gl/maps/gPvHg9dhijw

If you want to stay in town, try North Main Auto, Price's Service Center, or Auto Repair Specialists.

There's also the Unmanned Systems Lab. http://www.me.vt.edu/research/laboratories/unmanned-systems-lab/

Another link http://facilities.vt.edu/planning-construction/campus-construction-projects/active-projects/southgate-460-interchange.html

Any update?

I'd just go ahead and try it. You probably won't be able to tell from the diagram.

Try turning the idle mixture screw 2-2.5 turns out.

I can't verify, but I think it's an air mixture screw. Meaning that screwing it all the way in is blocking air (making it run rich).

Edit: I just found one comment on a site saying all the way in is lean... Try turning it out anyways.

The last one at Tech was in 2013. Check out the link daniellinphoto posted if you're interested in autocrosses in the area.

They've held autocrosses in that lot in the past.

Will glass survive the microwave when coming straight from the fridge or freezer?

Another good website here http://xjrider.com/viewforum.php?f=8

There was a downshift before the left hand corner, so I don't think he was on the throttle coming in to the corner. I think he went outside the traction circle on the front tires with too much braking. My guess is he panic braked because of the speed he was carrying in to the corner, overloaded the front tires, and went into the guardrail.

See these links for more information.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/MINI_R56/23-BASICS-Battery_and_Connection_Notes_Replacement/23-BASICS-Battery_and_Connection_Notes_Replacement.htm

http://www.bimmerscan.com/bmw-intelligent-battery-sensor-ibs/

This was an MZR motor, specifically the L3-VE, out of an early Mazda3.

The benefit of the UOA in this case was saving me diagnostic time. I couldn't work on it where I was living. I got it towed 4 hours away and had a replacement engine waiting for me when I got there.

I still haven't taken apart the motor to check out how bad it is, but it's possible that a rebuild before it lost compression would be cheaper compared to after depending on the damage to cylinder walls.

I'm fortunate the motor didn't fail in the middle of a 200+ mile trip I took while waiting on the results. If I had done the UOA closer to when the noise started and gotten the results back faster, I wouldn't have risked getting stranded far away from home and had to deal with it. It also saved me time in diagnosing what was wrong and helped me decide it was more economical to replace the motor with a used one rather than rebuilding.

I wouldn't say they're worthless, but I agree with you to the extent that I don't think they're necessarily a good value. It's too much money for the limited information you get.

He might want to get a thermo-bob. I would think it would help with the fuel dilution and keep the oil at a better, more consistent operating temperature.

I had an UOA predict a failure on my car's engine. It had been making a weird rattling noise. I couldn't pinpoint it for sure, and everybody I asked (all of them were knowledgeable about cars) couldn't figure it out. I had a mechanic look at it, and he said it's probably just a bit of valvetrain noise and it would be fine.

I did a UOA. A week later I got a phone call with the results telling me to stop driving it due to the high chromium content (probably rings). I figured one more quick (3 mile) drive would be fine since I'd put probably 500-600 miles on it. The motor lost compression on the way back and I barely made it home.

Where in VA are you? I'm in Blacksburg, and I'm looking to ride more in the spring when I've got more time and the weather is nicer to get some maintenance done.

The car charger is putting out about 5V, not 9V.

And I think you meant 4.2V, not 7.2V, but I think that's a typo with the keys right next to each other.

I'm not sure what you're talking about. Extra power? The coin does add resistive loss, but it's not "extra" just because the battery is at 9V and the charger puts out 5V.

The charger converts the input voltage (they usual have a few volt range) to ~5V out. There are losses due to inefficiencies, and the coin does add to that.

500 mAh at 9V is not the same as 500 mAh at 4.2V. That 25% figure might not be accurate. Rough math puts the 9V battery at around 5 Wh, and the iPhone 6 battery around 7 Wh.

An ampere hour is not a unit of energy. In a battery system, for example, accurate calculation of the energy delivered requires integration of the power delivered (product of instantaneous voltage and instantaneous current) over the discharge interval.[3] Generally, the battery voltage varies during discharge; an average value or nominal value may be used to approximate the integration of power.[4]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ampere_hour

Don't just slap an HID or LED bulb in there if it's designed for a halogen. Read this http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.html

If you're going to do it, do a PROPER retrofit. If you go that route, again, read that link, and then visit the link to theretrofitsource that /u/UrbanEngineer posted.

Wanna do mine next?