u/vadar007

The former owner had this installed around 2011 and maybe used it for two years. The house is large and they were a single occupant living on an upper floor so that didn't want to run it due to energy and heating fuel costs. They also shutoff all the radiators on the ground floor during the winter which just compounded the problem. We moved in around 5 years ago and started renovating the place. The heating system has been rehabilitated and I run the downstairs radiators to keep the downstair rooms at a minimum of 15 Celsius which has helped reduce the amount of moisture in the walls. There is far less evidence of salt leeching out of the walls then we were seeing before. This is the last piece of the system I wanted to bring back online. I just need to replace the pump and turn it on.

I believe this was put in years after the radiators were installed to try and address the moisture buildup in the walls on the ground floor.

Solved!

Agreed, looks like it's just an air bleed valve, T-connection with a reducer on top to fit the air bleed valve.

Yes, I believe it is the high point for this run of pipes but heated water comes in from above and enters the pump. It's actually fed from connections pulling heated water off a nearby radiator. The door to the right is where the pump is located and the switch is for the motor.

https://preview.redd.it/4ymk65ovh7xh1.jpeg?width=4000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d8e3250bb034578137d8c0de575487c0f152989d

My title describes the thing. Looks to be made of brass. System has been offline for some time and wanted to replace the pump and start it again. It looks like the cap can be rotated though I haven't tried yet.

And Aluminum which accounts for 75% of imported Aluminum into the U.S.

Yes!

https://preview.redd.it/bsvsplnfksah1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=993dd7facdb2d15174e4d1abbadd2804c2106690

Finally got a solid print! Researched settings with Claude/Copilot and came up with the following:

Layers and Perimeters

Layer Height: 0.2 mm

Perimeters: 3

Solid Layers Top: 5

Solid Layers Bottom: 5

Infill

Infill: 15%

Fill Pattern: Gyroid

Skirt and Brim

Brim Type: Outer Brim Only

Brim Width: 3 mm

Support Material

Generate Support Material: Off

Speed

Speed Perimeters: 45 mm/s

Speed Small Perimeters: 20 mm/s

Speed External Perimeters: 20 mm/s

Speed Bridges: 20 mm/s

Speed Over Bridges: 30 mm/s

Advanced

Bridge Flow Ratio: 0.95

Filament

Filament Temp 220 C

Cooling

Fan Speed: Min/Max 100%

Dynamic Fan Speeds: Off

Slow Down if Layer Print Time is Below: 20 sec

Min Print Speed: 15 mm/s

Most importantly, when I tried the first time using these settings with the same spool of white PLA I have been using, the dreaded extruder click started shortly after it completed the base. So, I aborted the print and switched to a different spool of PLA. Still Das Filament brand PLA but a different color. Print came out with no issues and much more refined. There was still some minor clipping near the very top. Looks like there was some curling happening on the inner edges where the overhang becomes very horizontal but it managed to push through it.

So besides my settings, there is something off with the white PLA I was using. It was getting near the end of the spool but the age wasn't any different than the other spool I used. Both stored the same way. I'll keep it for smaller jobs and get a new spool for the rest of the finials I need to print out.

So the PLA I use (Das Filament) has a recommended hotend range of 205–230 °C. I am running it at 210 °C based on a print tower test. I can try to push it higher, maybe 220 °C but won't that make the higher fan speed less effective? I may also try to switch to PETG which seems more forgiving in these situations. What bothers me most is the extruder clicking. It's like clockwork when it decides to show, always in about the same place but I don't get it in any other print jobs. So strange.

Ok, setting the small perimeter speed to 20mm/s definitely helped. Got further but then things started going sideways as the print neared the top. I had set the fan speed manually from 70% to 90%. Then as the print approached the top, the system overode and kept pushing it to 70%. Minor clipping started on one of the arms so I slowed the print speed to 80%. Then the dreaded extruder click started. I paused the print, checked to make sure the filament roll was loose (it was), backed off and tightened the idler screws. It was able to resume with no further issues but left a minor gap. So I am wondering if the low fan speed and clipping is somehow causing the extruder to jam. I had done several other print jobs earlier in the day with no issues. It's just this damn print job and always as it nears the top.

https://preview.redd.it/qy4lwlrcwmah1.jpeg?width=3000&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=9279ab1b001e1d947f615e5bcb1334b83ff6d176

Cold pull done. Gear looked good...no visible residue/debris. For the nozzle temp, speed and fan speed, do I set that in the Prusaslicer to take effect at a given print height?

You can unlock the latches and put them into their "up" position. You need something to hook them and pull them towards you. They'll re-engage/reset when they have been pulled far enough.

Excellent, I'll give it a go!

LOL, I was/am trying to print parts for an enclosure (Delack) to try and insulate from the ambient room temperature and provide dust protection. My sequential printing effort was to kick out multiple parts faster.

Agreed, the variation in temperature across the hotbed is what was causing me issues. Correcting for the 5C degree delta didn't seem to make much difference. Outer edges are always cooler.

Thanks for the offer. Ended up making a replacement part from PETG. Wasn't to hard and there were a ton of tutorials to work from.

I do have a 3D Printer. Just got it a couple weeks ago and am still getting familiar with it. If I can't find a replacement then I'll make one. Already have a model for an M12 screw the fits, just need to modify the base to match the part. Thanks for the info.

What technique did you use to force it off? Did you start on a corner of two corners simultaneously, etc.?

That's the challenge...trying to get that plastic trim cover aka "Inner Door Cover" off. I tried forcing it but you risk busting the glass trying to force it off. There are definitely tabs holding it in place but I can't figure out how to unlatch them. Wondering if there is a special tool that gets underneath the sides and frees the cover from the tabs.

No, still haven't figured this out. The latches come attached to the glass panel which you can buy separately as opposed to a whole new door. But that is only if you can figure out how to get the inner door cover off.