u/ProjectCharming6992

With DVD you have to remember that it depends on what source was used for the DVD and how it was mastered.

DVD’s of modern TV shows and movies, are generally sourced from at least 1080p 24fps masters and encoded on DVD in at least 720x480/720x576 24p, where the 24 frames are hard encoded onto the disc and then your player and TV decide whether to go with the straight 24 progressive video and upscale and use that (this is what they do on 120hz or 240hz TV’s, because 24 divides into 120 or 240 evenly, so they are just duplicating each frame 5 or 10 times for that really smooth look), or if they need to upscale and (especially for 50hz and 60hz TV’s and computer screens) for PAL speed up the 24 to 25 fps or for NTSC insert 3:2 pull-down to spread across 30 frames. Even older movies that were shot on 24fps film can be encoded this way where the DVD has a 24fps progressive frame version on the disc.

The other way is to encode in 720x480i or 720x576i 24p at 29.97/30 or 25, and then your TV extracts the 3:2 pull-down for 29.97/30 stuff. This is why older shows like Star Trek Voyager that were shot on film at 24fps but then transferred and edited to D2 Composite Digital Videotape at 29.97 for all 7 seasons of its run, look smoother on 120hz/240hz displays, because the TV is able to remove the 3:2 pull-down. Unfortunately the PAL DVD’s can not benefit from this, because they were sourced from PAL Digital Betacam tapes created in the 90’s and 2000’s that were converted to 25fps from the final D2 edit masters that were done at 29.97, so they have that 29.97 to 25 conversion baked into them on top of the 24 to 29.97 3:2 pull-down. And the streaming files actually throw out 1 field of the 2 fields that make up 1 interlace frame, then duplicate the remaining field to create a fake 480p 29.97 video, so on streaming Voyager is running from essentially 240p at 15 fps and destroys the original 24fps.

However then you also have another source: what videotape master was used. I have a bunch of public domain TV shows like the 50’s Dragnet where it’s clear that they were using recordings made off the wall while a projector played the 16mm or 35mm film, and ultimately that video ended up on a VHS recorded in SLP mode. Funnily enough those still look smoother on 120hz/240hz because the TV is able to remove the 3:2 pull-down that was added by the original video camera, however, quality wise it doesn’t look good on any screen because they were sourced from VHS-SLP masters. Same goes for “Barnaby Jones” Seasons 2-8 on DVD by VEI, where CBS gave VEI 3/4-Umatic Tape masters, or dubs from U-Matics made in the 1970’s and 80’s when they were still transferring film to videotape by projecting it on a wall and capturing the video on videotape. However that gave the shows a bluish or greenish tinge. Versus Season 1 that CBS remastered in 2010 and encoded on their own DVD and later VEI encoded at 480p/24, so Season 1 looks better on any TV because your DVD is playing a progressive file versus and interlace file.

DVD’s (depending on if they are NTSC or PAL) are either 720x480 (NTSC) end encoded at 24/29.97/30 or 720x576 (PAL) 24/25 fps.

The GV-USB2, Powerplay (they’re both clones of the Easycap/Clearclick)and MiniDVR are all garbage and only capture half your resolution and framerate.

For your highest quality transfer, even for Video8XR, you need to use a Digital8 camcorder such as the DCRTRV110. It’ll connect by FireWire, give you your full resolution (that includes the extended resolution that your CCDTRV57 could capture at) and framerate (480i 29.97 fps), and keep the color and black & white signals separate, just like they are on the tape (yellow composite combines them into one and causes image degradation).

There is no such thing as a Digital8 tape. Digital8 camcorders recorded onto the exact same tape as analog Video8 and Hi8 branded tapes, and Video8 and Hi8 could record onto tapes branded as Digital8. The only thing different is the data. Record in a Video8 or Hi8 camera and you are recording analog. Record in a Digital8 camera and you are recording DV (same as MiniDV). But on playback, Video8 and Hi8 won’t playback Digital8 recordings because they don’t have the digital decoder. And Most Digital8 camcorders were built with the ability to playback analog Video8 and Hi8 recordings.

Ultimately tape is an analog medium, and it’s how the data is recorded that determines if it’s analog or digital recorded on an analog medium.

All the Digital8 is doing is reading the analog data on the Hi8 tape and it is converting it to a digital format, all while retaining the separated video that was recorded on the tape.

The Digital8 would not negate the rules, since you are still submitting stuff shot on Hi8. The Digital8 provides a much higher quality, cleaner transfer than the Elgato and composite video, or even analog S-Video to a digital device.

Recording Digital8 and playing back analog Hi8 on a Digital8 are two completely different things.

Are you talking Hi8 videotape (look like mini VHS tapes) or 8/Super8 FILM REELS? Those are two very different formats, and this forum is about Hi8 videotape, not 8/Super8 film reels.

Then why are you using the Elgato if you don’t want to digitize. Your best option for at home digitizing is a Digital8 that gives you a broadcast quality DV-AVI or DV-MOV (depends on if it’s Mac or Windows for the container.

Yes Hi8 is analog, however that doesn’t matter when digitizing because the Digital8 digitizes the analog signal right at the video head. You still get the analog look in the digital version.

Digital8 is the optimal for Hi8 transfer. Both formats use the same physical tape. You can tape in one and digitize in the other.

And that Elgato is just an Easycap clone.

Unless the DVD has been compressed to all get out, or the master was a VHS SLP recording, or the Babylon 5 DVD’s that had the CGI cropped out of a 480i image and you are basically watching a 240p image, DVD’s won’t be pixelated on a 4K or 40-inch plus 1080p TV because of the upscalers in DVD players that do a really good job upscaling to 1080p. And that 1080p (unless you are using a PS5/Xbox Series X or 4K Blu-Ray player) is what is sent over the HDMI, so even a 4K TV will upscale that 1080p to 4K. DVD will be softer than Blu-Ray, but shows like “Star Trek Enterprise” look better on DVD, even on an 85-inch screen, versus its Blu-Ray counterpart.

Optimal quality is using a Digital8 camcorder, such as a DCRTRV110, connected by FireWire. That’ll give you your cleanest, highest quality, because it digitizes right at the video head.

You’ll have twenty minutes of digital CD audio on it that can play in a normal CD player. But you only have 5 minutes of video on here that needs a Laserdisc player to access.

Also CD Video came in 3 sizes. The small CD size here, and 9- or 10-inch version then the 12-inch Laserdisc. In the late-80’s Phillips was trying to push Laserdisc in Europe and someone came up with the idea to rename it after the really big seller, CD. Unfortunately the name mostly stayed in Europe and was quickly abandoned, but a few NTSC CD Video discs were released in Canada/US (I have a medium sized one that has a bunch of music videos on it in NTSC format). Those bigger discs—-as long as the audio was digital, I guess that qualified as CD quality audio!

Bloodthirst is book 2 of her Demons trilogy. She started it with “Demons” in 1986 and the final novel was 1996’s TNG “Possession” that she co-wrote with Kathleen O’Malley.

No I’m not off my rocker, because it is fact.

DVD is compressed, but nowhere near what 4K or 1080p gets compressed to for streaming (4K on streaming is, a lot of times running at 12-15Mbps, while 1080p will be around 7-8Mbps).

No Linux doesn’t sidestep it, because the hardware needs to send the information to the computer and it sends that through highly compressed H.264.

They have upgraded it some since it was originally designed to be those department store “VHS-to-DVD” devices.

No you won’t. Streaming compresses the signal to where it’s worst than DVD, and DVD will beat a 4K stream any days.

You just posted misinformation.

No, the hardware only captures in h.264, and then your computer is converting it to lossless when you select FFV1. You’re not getting true lossless.

There are but those USB ones tend to just be the same Easycap clones just with different model numbers and interference eliminators stuck on to try to stop interference. You don’t get good Hauppauge or Elgato stuff unless you go for their expensive stuff. Otherwise those USB-stick-looking ones are just Easycap/Clearclick/IO Data clones. And they don’t capture lossless—-they just use software to make you think they do.

The Hauppauge USB-Live2 is just a rebadged Easycap/Clearclick.

And BOB deinterlacing is terrible. Any software deinterlacing is terrible and doesn’t do anywhere as near of a good job as a hardware deinterlacer.

Well that portta’s not doing you any good.

It’s not my opinion. It’s facts and you keep stating misinformation as fact when it’s not fact.

That S icon will engage when the camcorder is in S-VHS-ET mode as well as true S-VHS mode.

Your sure they were S-VHS-C tapes and not just branded “Super” VHS to try to indicate quality, or Super wasn’t a brand name?

You’re sure about that. Because in your original post you were saying VHS-C, and your video quality does not support true S-VHS.

Let’s see, ABC, NBC, CBS, CTV, Newsmax, CNN, CBC….need I go further.

OBS is not used by professionals nor news organizations.